Ok, I'm finally going to polish the hull on my H26. The problem I have is how do you get around taking all the decals off while you're doing this? My hull is in bad shape what would you guys recommend??? Thanks Paul H Linda Belle 95 H26
- Status
Ok, I'm finally going to polish the hull on my H26. The problem I have is how do you get around taking all the decals off while you're doing this? My hull is in bad shape what would you guys recommend??? Thanks Paul H Linda Belle 95 H26
Not easy
This is not an easy job. Many people advise using a heat gun. You have to be very careful since heat, too hot or too close, can bubble the gel coat. You can also use an eraser which is a disc you put on the end of a drill and functions like a an eraser. These can be found at an auto paint store. You will probably need two for your size boat. I actually ended up using a very sharp wood chisel. Sounds scary but unlike a razor, it is stiff enough so it will get under the vinyl. I ended up using all three since , dependent on the stripe's location, one method worked better than the other. Expect to spend more time than you anticipated. Good luck.
This is not an easy job. Many people advise using a heat gun. You have to be very careful since heat, too hot or too close, can bubble the gel coat. You can also use an eraser which is a disc you put on the end of a drill and functions like a an eraser. These can be found at an auto paint store. You will probably need two for your size boat. I actually ended up using a very sharp wood chisel. Sounds scary but unlike a razor, it is stiff enough so it will get under the vinyl. I ended up using all three since , dependent on the stripe's location, one method worked better than the other. Expect to spend more time than you anticipated. Good luck.
Not easy
This is not an easy job. Many people advise using a heat gun. You have to be very careful since heat, too hot or too close, can bubble the gel coat. You can also use an eraser which is a disc you put on the end of a drill and functions like a an eraser. These can be found at an auto paint store. You will probably need two for your size boat. I actually ended up using a very sharp wood chisel. Sounds scary but unlike a razor, it is stiff enough so it will get under the vinyl. I ended up using all three since , dependent on the stripe's location, one method worked better than the other. Expect to spend more time than you anticipated. Good luck.
This is not an easy job. Many people advise using a heat gun. You have to be very careful since heat, too hot or too close, can bubble the gel coat. You can also use an eraser which is a disc you put on the end of a drill and functions like a an eraser. These can be found at an auto paint store. You will probably need two for your size boat. I actually ended up using a very sharp wood chisel. Sounds scary but unlike a razor, it is stiff enough so it will get under the vinyl. I ended up using all three since , dependent on the stripe's location, one method worked better than the other. Expect to spend more time than you anticipated. Good luck.
Try Without Removing Them, First
They aren't really designed to remove them unless they are replaced. That could be expensive. First, try to do the hull with the decals on. Then if that doesn't work you can always make the contact to buy them and replace them at a later date.
They aren't really designed to remove them unless they are replaced. That could be expensive. First, try to do the hull with the decals on. Then if that doesn't work you can always make the contact to buy them and replace them at a later date.
Try Without Removing Them, First
They aren't really designed to remove them unless they are replaced. That could be expensive. First, try to do the hull with the decals on. Then if that doesn't work you can always make the contact to buy them and replace them at a later date.
They aren't really designed to remove them unless they are replaced. That could be expensive. First, try to do the hull with the decals on. Then if that doesn't work you can always make the contact to buy them and replace them at a later date.
When I did remove the Letters...
...of the P.O.'s boat name, I removed them with a razor blade. But do so, very carefully so as not to chip the gel coat. Your vinyl will be thicker than mine was.
...of the P.O.'s boat name, I removed them with a razor blade. But do so, very carefully so as not to chip the gel coat. Your vinyl will be thicker than mine was.
When I did remove the Letters...
...of the P.O.'s boat name, I removed them with a razor blade. But do so, very carefully so as not to chip the gel coat. Your vinyl will be thicker than mine was.
...of the P.O.'s boat name, I removed them with a razor blade. But do so, very carefully so as not to chip the gel coat. Your vinyl will be thicker than mine was.
Clarification
I guess I wasn't clear on my question. I'd prefer NOT to have to remove the decals and striping. How do I polish and remove the oxidation without tearing them up? Paul H Linda Belle 95 H26
I guess I wasn't clear on my question. I'd prefer NOT to have to remove the decals and striping. How do I polish and remove the oxidation without tearing them up? Paul H Linda Belle 95 H26
Clarification
I guess I wasn't clear on my question. I'd prefer NOT to have to remove the decals and striping. How do I polish and remove the oxidation without tearing them up? Paul H Linda Belle 95 H26
I guess I wasn't clear on my question. I'd prefer NOT to have to remove the decals and striping. How do I polish and remove the oxidation without tearing them up? Paul H Linda Belle 95 H26
Tape over them
Using heavy masking tape, tape OVER the existing decals. Buff away, then peel off!
Using heavy masking tape, tape OVER the existing decals. Buff away, then peel off!
Tape over them
Using heavy masking tape, tape OVER the existing decals. Buff away, then peel off!
Using heavy masking tape, tape OVER the existing decals. Buff away, then peel off!
Hand Polish
I apply the polish or wax manually on the decals and hull. Then, I manually buff them all, using my finger to bear down a little harder on the fiberglass in between the decals. Then, a little more detail work to get off the excess polish on the decal edges. When I'm through, I can't tell the difference between power polishing and the manual part. For the thin pin striping, I use the power buffer. Over time, the thin stripes are flaking away. I'll use generic West Marine pin striping to replace these someday. BrianW
I apply the polish or wax manually on the decals and hull. Then, I manually buff them all, using my finger to bear down a little harder on the fiberglass in between the decals. Then, a little more detail work to get off the excess polish on the decal edges. When I'm through, I can't tell the difference between power polishing and the manual part. For the thin pin striping, I use the power buffer. Over time, the thin stripes are flaking away. I'll use generic West Marine pin striping to replace these someday. BrianW
Hand Polish
I apply the polish or wax manually on the decals and hull. Then, I manually buff them all, using my finger to bear down a little harder on the fiberglass in between the decals. Then, a little more detail work to get off the excess polish on the decal edges. When I'm through, I can't tell the difference between power polishing and the manual part. For the thin pin striping, I use the power buffer. Over time, the thin stripes are flaking away. I'll use generic West Marine pin striping to replace these someday. BrianW
I apply the polish or wax manually on the decals and hull. Then, I manually buff them all, using my finger to bear down a little harder on the fiberglass in between the decals. Then, a little more detail work to get off the excess polish on the decal edges. When I'm through, I can't tell the difference between power polishing and the manual part. For the thin pin striping, I use the power buffer. Over time, the thin stripes are flaking away. I'll use generic West Marine pin striping to replace these someday. BrianW
Polishing
I have used lost of products over the years but had best luck with meguiars .They have a 3 step process . Oxidation remover or heavy duty oxidation remover first followed by the polish and finally the wax. If you keep any power tools away from the decals and stripes you should be fine, Mike
I have used lost of products over the years but had best luck with meguiars .They have a 3 step process . Oxidation remover or heavy duty oxidation remover first followed by the polish and finally the wax. If you keep any power tools away from the decals and stripes you should be fine, Mike
Polishing
I have used lost of products over the years but had best luck with meguiars .They have a 3 step process . Oxidation remover or heavy duty oxidation remover first followed by the polish and finally the wax. If you keep any power tools away from the decals and stripes you should be fine, Mike
I have used lost of products over the years but had best luck with meguiars .They have a 3 step process . Oxidation remover or heavy duty oxidation remover first followed by the polish and finally the wax. If you keep any power tools away from the decals and stripes you should be fine, Mike
- Status