Ocean Falls Cruise Log
June 24 the admiral and I set sail on Belle-Vie for our two-month cruise destined for Ocean Falls British Columbia. At least we had a plan. Seven boats made plans to join AMEE (Anacortes, Mukilteo, Everett x 2) flotilla, but alas by the cast off date three boats decided to join. Pelican Beach on Cypress Island was our first stop for the evening under sail most of the way. The next day we headed for Jones Island, through Pole Pass and stopping on the way for lunch at Deer Harbor. Saw a nice buck still in the velvet and a very tame doe that let me get to within about ten feet of her.
A very spirited sail the next day from Jones Island to Roche Harbor where we stopped to do a mail drop then motor sailed in flat and calm weather to Sydney, BC to clear customs. Our plan is to sail over to Butchart Cove and tour the gardens, one of the admiral’s favorite past times.
Three days before, as Bob Barker was steering Mariposa, a Cal 27, into Prevost Bay on Stuart Island, he struck a rock hard opening up the boat’s keel stub joint. Colin Banks, the skipper of Wassail with Bruce Garretson as crew, a Pacific Seacraft 34, stayed with Bob until he managed to reach Sydney for haul out and some expensive repairs before continuing on. Such is life and hazards on the water.
We left Butchart Cove on June 28, northbound through Sansum Narrows then a beat (six tacks) up Stuart Channel to Princess Cove on Wallace Island to rendezvous with Wassail and Mariposa. A low-pressure disturbance forced us to stay an extra day before heading to Nanaimo through Dodd Narrows.
Obtained two free reciprocal days (June 30 and July 1) at Nanaimo Yacht Club dock because they allow one day per month. Stayed an extra day at anchor in Mark Bay for the Dinghy Dock Pub race every Wednesday, always a hoot to watch from the floating restaurant. Hoisted sails as soon as we left the Nanaimo fuel dock for a 30-mile leg to Cocktail Cove on Lasqueti Island to attend their 20th annual Art Festival.
A very spirited 120-degree starboard tack sail all the way observing some mid tens and lots of nine knot speeds over ground. Another southerly disturbance in the forecast, but Cocktail Cove is well protected and provides us with an ample supply of fresh shucked oysters. Frank’s barge is on Salt Spring Island according to his look-alike Art. We walk maybe 100 feet before we catch a hitch to the Community Hall five miles to the south end of the Island to attend the festival. Some familiar faces, lots of friendly locals with some smoking reefers, which leaves the admiral dizzy at times. As usual the marching band is a hit, but Chris the nude snare drummer from 2006 is tied up in Vancouver this year.
Boris and Chey, stars from our 2006 video, are both four years old now. We talk to their parents and show them the earlier very entertaining videos. The weather becomes blustery and the ride back to our boats in the dinghy is very lumpy, but all arrive safely. July 7 we depart for Lund with a nice westerly carrying us most of the way. The admiral plans to catch a flight with Brainard Lee, a private pilot friend, who is taking her back home to Paine Field for her commercial flight to Denver where she will take care of grandkids for a few days.
Her flight with Brainard was quite an experience. They cleared customs at Friday Harbor. AMEE flotilla departs Lund for Grace Harbor, then to Roscoe Cove, a new place suggested by Bob Barker on East Redondo Island. Bugger deer flies at Grace Harbor you can easily dispatch, but they are pesky. Made a minor modification to the shore tie spool so that it would pay out smoothly.
Lee Baker, an older retiree from Seattle on an H40 named Summer Salt, came aboard to inspect Belle-Vie. He is enamored with the P42. He did not make an offer; darn. We hoisted anchor at 1000 hours for Roscoe Harbor on a 120 degrees port tack from the entrance to Malaspina Inlet. Nice!
Roscoe has a very narrow and SHALLOW entrance to the upper bay. At flood we had 4.3 feet beneath the keel. As we entered Ray and Sandy, Shelter Bay slip neighbors on Nikko, yelled, “hi neighbor”. Roscoe is an old logging site with a spill-o-way to the fresh water lake that was used as a log chute. Lots of beaver sign as we hike along the lake trail.
On to Melanie Cove, Squirrel Cove and then Refuge Harbor for groceries and fuel. The admiral is enjoying her stay in Denver with the grandkids. Marlyn’s Place is still closed. Early start 0600 for Yucultas (Gillard) Rapids. Wassail and Belle-Vie arrive on time, but Mariposa is an hour late. Difficult for him to get through the rapids to Big Bay because of the strong current, but he succeeds after several tries. He receives much ribbing from other members of the flotilla.
July 17 catch the ebbing tide north to Shoal Bay, We’ve been by here several times, but this time we stop for the evening. Lots of history here from the old gold mine that operated in the late 1800s. We hike the steep logging skid road to the mine that is still open. Twice a song sparrow perches near three feet from our pub table and sings its heart out for us. Quite nice to have such a wonderful afternoon musical show in paradise.
As I’m sitting in the cockpit reading a novel waiting for Bob and Colin to return Mariposa has decided to come over to Belle-Vie for a visit. She gets my attention by thumping Belle-Vie’s port quarter with her bow. Bob’s anchor must not have been set well. So I scrape my leg as I hop onto Mariposa, start her Honda outboard and motor over to the dock where Bob has a puzzled look on his face.
Cordero Bay shows a brilliant full moon that night with high fog clouds the next morning. Little has changed in this anchorage. Although we watch a mink carry each of her three babies to higher ground in her mouth the same way a cat carries her kittens.
We stay two days in Forward Harbor because of high winds in Johnstone Strait. On the way in we watch a nice well fed black bear turning over rocks on the beach to feed on marine life beneath. Lorna is still living alone at Port Neville, which was named by Captain Vancouver in 1792. Her daughter is now married, living in Campbell River and she has just learned pregnant.
Alas, Bob Barker decides to depart AMEE flotilla for home on July 23 without an explanation. We wish him a safe journey then Colin and I head up the bay to find the petroglyphs. We find them on the west side of Robbers Knob, uncovered at low water, stunning in faint detail and undated, but very old. A first nation midden several thousand years old sits on the Knob about 20 feet deep.
Our next anchorage is Double Bay, which has become a very large fishing resort. We anchor out and enjoy a relaxing evening. Tomorrow we sail to Alert Bay for their 26th annual festival. A raffle winner receives one half gallon of grease, a first nation delicacy. I talk to some locals about this grease, which they tell me is made from the Ooligan fish (smelt) similar to a herring and is called Gleetna.
To make gleetna they gather the fish into a pit where it stews for a period of time. The fish is then placed in pots where it is boiled until the oil is rendered. The oil is strained through cheese cloth until it becomes a clear amber liquid. They tell me it tastes like cooked salmon fat and it is used as a condiment. I am unsuccessful in locating a sample to taste.
A storm is coming in from Alaska, so on July 28 we sail a short distance to Pearce Island for a well protected anchorage; a narrow waterway between the islands, but is a potato patch of bull kelp. We hunker down for the evening and then over to Bootleg Cove on Gilford Island. On the way over we watch two humpback whales, one of them bellowing every time it comes up for air.
Bootleg Cove is blocked with two trawlers, so we settle for Waddington Bay. On the way in a storm cell dumps a ton of rain on us drenching everything, but before long it passes and the sky clears. We fire up the furnace to warm the boat due to the cold front that came through.
After a night at Joe Cove followed by Cullen Bay, we sail over to Echo Bay on 8/2 where we dock on the respectable side of the Bay. We decide to not attend the pig roast across the Bay because of the crowd. Had a very nice and quiet happy hour and dinner with fellow cruisers and locals. Also a nice visit with Carol the bead lady and her husband Jerry. The elementary school is closed because of so many First Nation people moving to Alert Bay due to the government condemning their Health Bay homes.
Nice pictographs carbon dated at 3,000 years on the adjacent cliff. The artist used ochra (iron oxide) and set it with salmon roe. The pictograph is beneath an over hang which protects it from erosion. We tried the Burdwood Group Islands, but the small anchorage already has two boats, so back to Shoal Harbor. The next day we visit with Billy Proctor and learn that his wife past away last year. Some tourist brings their large dogs ashore and let them roam free. They end up attacking one of Billy’s pet roosters and almost kills it. It won’t survive so probably will be his dinner.
Billy confirms the existence of a clam garden at the entrance to Shoal Harbor, clearly visible at ebb tide. The First Nation people would herd herring into these gardens, then stack small poles to prevent their escape whereupon they would harvest their catch.
Motored to Health Bay where Alan and Taylor, members of the Gwayasdums village greet us at the dock. Percy gives us a very nice tour of the oldest and still active long house in BC. Later he shows us their new yellow cedar long boat eight years in the making; about 90% complete.
The next day, 8/7 we sail to Cutter Cover for the evening, then a speedy and lumpy sail the next day to Port Neville in following seas and wind. We decide to anchor up the bay. The next day a nice sail to Billy Goat Bay, then to Small Inlet on Kanish Bay, a new anchorage for the flotilla.
AMEE flotilla departs early at 0dark30 (0500) on August 10 to follow the flood through Seymour Narrows to Campbell River arriving early in the day. We’ve never been down the west side of Georgia Strait to Nanaimo so we give Comox a try for the first time. No decent place to anchor (all taken by private mooring balls), which forces us to settle for the small marina.
We decide on an early start (0600) for French Creek. A strong opposing current and wind forces us into Deep Bay, another poor anchorage, so we accept reciprocal moorage at the Deep Bay Yacht Club dock. Dinner is over at the local restaurant where they make the best (and only) fish and chips in Deep Bay. Another early start (0600) favors the ebb and northerly winds to Nanaimo. Light to begin with but pick up to 10 to 14 knots and higher at times. A very nice sail for a rendezvous with Micky Smith and Leslie on Distant End a Globe 38 and John Lund on Friehet a Freedom 32.
A wonderful spaghetti dinner on Distant End and I bring a fruit salad. Today is the Dinghy Dock Pub race, always a hoot to watch. We make ready to head south tomorrow. As I leave town in the dinghy heading for the boat at anchor, I notice a large sailboat mast leaning way over. As I get closer, it looks like Distant End on a rock. It is! He and John took the boat over to fill up with fuel and water and on the way back he struck a rock hard. The Globe 38 has a full keel so no apparent damage and no water coming in, but will haul out when he gets back home.
A brisk beat towards Annette Inlet on Prevost Island. Narrow and shallow but very nice and protected from the squall that arrives later in the evening. Micky, Colin and John decide to stay for a few days, but I need to get back home. My two months on the water have arrived. I plan on clearing US customs in Roche Harbor mid day then sail over to Jones Island for the evening. Spend happy hour with Deb, Brad, Brady, Louann and Darren from Lynden talking about this and that.
Motor sailed to Pelican Beach on the east side of Cypress Island 8/22. It is my running day so up the hill to Duck Lake and down to Eagle Harbor, then back again. Blood boiling by the time I finish the seven miles. I cook a pot roast for the evening. Lovely night. Flat and calm my last day on the water 8/23 to Shelter Bay. Wonderful cruise with new experiences around every headland.
June 24 the admiral and I set sail on Belle-Vie for our two-month cruise destined for Ocean Falls British Columbia. At least we had a plan. Seven boats made plans to join AMEE (Anacortes, Mukilteo, Everett x 2) flotilla, but alas by the cast off date three boats decided to join. Pelican Beach on Cypress Island was our first stop for the evening under sail most of the way. The next day we headed for Jones Island, through Pole Pass and stopping on the way for lunch at Deer Harbor. Saw a nice buck still in the velvet and a very tame doe that let me get to within about ten feet of her.
A very spirited sail the next day from Jones Island to Roche Harbor where we stopped to do a mail drop then motor sailed in flat and calm weather to Sydney, BC to clear customs. Our plan is to sail over to Butchart Cove and tour the gardens, one of the admiral’s favorite past times.
Three days before, as Bob Barker was steering Mariposa, a Cal 27, into Prevost Bay on Stuart Island, he struck a rock hard opening up the boat’s keel stub joint. Colin Banks, the skipper of Wassail with Bruce Garretson as crew, a Pacific Seacraft 34, stayed with Bob until he managed to reach Sydney for haul out and some expensive repairs before continuing on. Such is life and hazards on the water.
We left Butchart Cove on June 28, northbound through Sansum Narrows then a beat (six tacks) up Stuart Channel to Princess Cove on Wallace Island to rendezvous with Wassail and Mariposa. A low-pressure disturbance forced us to stay an extra day before heading to Nanaimo through Dodd Narrows.
Obtained two free reciprocal days (June 30 and July 1) at Nanaimo Yacht Club dock because they allow one day per month. Stayed an extra day at anchor in Mark Bay for the Dinghy Dock Pub race every Wednesday, always a hoot to watch from the floating restaurant. Hoisted sails as soon as we left the Nanaimo fuel dock for a 30-mile leg to Cocktail Cove on Lasqueti Island to attend their 20th annual Art Festival.
A very spirited 120-degree starboard tack sail all the way observing some mid tens and lots of nine knot speeds over ground. Another southerly disturbance in the forecast, but Cocktail Cove is well protected and provides us with an ample supply of fresh shucked oysters. Frank’s barge is on Salt Spring Island according to his look-alike Art. We walk maybe 100 feet before we catch a hitch to the Community Hall five miles to the south end of the Island to attend the festival. Some familiar faces, lots of friendly locals with some smoking reefers, which leaves the admiral dizzy at times. As usual the marching band is a hit, but Chris the nude snare drummer from 2006 is tied up in Vancouver this year.
Boris and Chey, stars from our 2006 video, are both four years old now. We talk to their parents and show them the earlier very entertaining videos. The weather becomes blustery and the ride back to our boats in the dinghy is very lumpy, but all arrive safely. July 7 we depart for Lund with a nice westerly carrying us most of the way. The admiral plans to catch a flight with Brainard Lee, a private pilot friend, who is taking her back home to Paine Field for her commercial flight to Denver where she will take care of grandkids for a few days.
Her flight with Brainard was quite an experience. They cleared customs at Friday Harbor. AMEE flotilla departs Lund for Grace Harbor, then to Roscoe Cove, a new place suggested by Bob Barker on East Redondo Island. Bugger deer flies at Grace Harbor you can easily dispatch, but they are pesky. Made a minor modification to the shore tie spool so that it would pay out smoothly.
Lee Baker, an older retiree from Seattle on an H40 named Summer Salt, came aboard to inspect Belle-Vie. He is enamored with the P42. He did not make an offer; darn. We hoisted anchor at 1000 hours for Roscoe Harbor on a 120 degrees port tack from the entrance to Malaspina Inlet. Nice!
Roscoe has a very narrow and SHALLOW entrance to the upper bay. At flood we had 4.3 feet beneath the keel. As we entered Ray and Sandy, Shelter Bay slip neighbors on Nikko, yelled, “hi neighbor”. Roscoe is an old logging site with a spill-o-way to the fresh water lake that was used as a log chute. Lots of beaver sign as we hike along the lake trail.
On to Melanie Cove, Squirrel Cove and then Refuge Harbor for groceries and fuel. The admiral is enjoying her stay in Denver with the grandkids. Marlyn’s Place is still closed. Early start 0600 for Yucultas (Gillard) Rapids. Wassail and Belle-Vie arrive on time, but Mariposa is an hour late. Difficult for him to get through the rapids to Big Bay because of the strong current, but he succeeds after several tries. He receives much ribbing from other members of the flotilla.
July 17 catch the ebbing tide north to Shoal Bay, We’ve been by here several times, but this time we stop for the evening. Lots of history here from the old gold mine that operated in the late 1800s. We hike the steep logging skid road to the mine that is still open. Twice a song sparrow perches near three feet from our pub table and sings its heart out for us. Quite nice to have such a wonderful afternoon musical show in paradise.
As I’m sitting in the cockpit reading a novel waiting for Bob and Colin to return Mariposa has decided to come over to Belle-Vie for a visit. She gets my attention by thumping Belle-Vie’s port quarter with her bow. Bob’s anchor must not have been set well. So I scrape my leg as I hop onto Mariposa, start her Honda outboard and motor over to the dock where Bob has a puzzled look on his face.
Cordero Bay shows a brilliant full moon that night with high fog clouds the next morning. Little has changed in this anchorage. Although we watch a mink carry each of her three babies to higher ground in her mouth the same way a cat carries her kittens.
We stay two days in Forward Harbor because of high winds in Johnstone Strait. On the way in we watch a nice well fed black bear turning over rocks on the beach to feed on marine life beneath. Lorna is still living alone at Port Neville, which was named by Captain Vancouver in 1792. Her daughter is now married, living in Campbell River and she has just learned pregnant.
Alas, Bob Barker decides to depart AMEE flotilla for home on July 23 without an explanation. We wish him a safe journey then Colin and I head up the bay to find the petroglyphs. We find them on the west side of Robbers Knob, uncovered at low water, stunning in faint detail and undated, but very old. A first nation midden several thousand years old sits on the Knob about 20 feet deep.
Our next anchorage is Double Bay, which has become a very large fishing resort. We anchor out and enjoy a relaxing evening. Tomorrow we sail to Alert Bay for their 26th annual festival. A raffle winner receives one half gallon of grease, a first nation delicacy. I talk to some locals about this grease, which they tell me is made from the Ooligan fish (smelt) similar to a herring and is called Gleetna.
To make gleetna they gather the fish into a pit where it stews for a period of time. The fish is then placed in pots where it is boiled until the oil is rendered. The oil is strained through cheese cloth until it becomes a clear amber liquid. They tell me it tastes like cooked salmon fat and it is used as a condiment. I am unsuccessful in locating a sample to taste.
A storm is coming in from Alaska, so on July 28 we sail a short distance to Pearce Island for a well protected anchorage; a narrow waterway between the islands, but is a potato patch of bull kelp. We hunker down for the evening and then over to Bootleg Cove on Gilford Island. On the way over we watch two humpback whales, one of them bellowing every time it comes up for air.
Bootleg Cove is blocked with two trawlers, so we settle for Waddington Bay. On the way in a storm cell dumps a ton of rain on us drenching everything, but before long it passes and the sky clears. We fire up the furnace to warm the boat due to the cold front that came through.
After a night at Joe Cove followed by Cullen Bay, we sail over to Echo Bay on 8/2 where we dock on the respectable side of the Bay. We decide to not attend the pig roast across the Bay because of the crowd. Had a very nice and quiet happy hour and dinner with fellow cruisers and locals. Also a nice visit with Carol the bead lady and her husband Jerry. The elementary school is closed because of so many First Nation people moving to Alert Bay due to the government condemning their Health Bay homes.
Nice pictographs carbon dated at 3,000 years on the adjacent cliff. The artist used ochra (iron oxide) and set it with salmon roe. The pictograph is beneath an over hang which protects it from erosion. We tried the Burdwood Group Islands, but the small anchorage already has two boats, so back to Shoal Harbor. The next day we visit with Billy Proctor and learn that his wife past away last year. Some tourist brings their large dogs ashore and let them roam free. They end up attacking one of Billy’s pet roosters and almost kills it. It won’t survive so probably will be his dinner.
Billy confirms the existence of a clam garden at the entrance to Shoal Harbor, clearly visible at ebb tide. The First Nation people would herd herring into these gardens, then stack small poles to prevent their escape whereupon they would harvest their catch.
Motored to Health Bay where Alan and Taylor, members of the Gwayasdums village greet us at the dock. Percy gives us a very nice tour of the oldest and still active long house in BC. Later he shows us their new yellow cedar long boat eight years in the making; about 90% complete.
The next day, 8/7 we sail to Cutter Cover for the evening, then a speedy and lumpy sail the next day to Port Neville in following seas and wind. We decide to anchor up the bay. The next day a nice sail to Billy Goat Bay, then to Small Inlet on Kanish Bay, a new anchorage for the flotilla.
AMEE flotilla departs early at 0dark30 (0500) on August 10 to follow the flood through Seymour Narrows to Campbell River arriving early in the day. We’ve never been down the west side of Georgia Strait to Nanaimo so we give Comox a try for the first time. No decent place to anchor (all taken by private mooring balls), which forces us to settle for the small marina.
We decide on an early start (0600) for French Creek. A strong opposing current and wind forces us into Deep Bay, another poor anchorage, so we accept reciprocal moorage at the Deep Bay Yacht Club dock. Dinner is over at the local restaurant where they make the best (and only) fish and chips in Deep Bay. Another early start (0600) favors the ebb and northerly winds to Nanaimo. Light to begin with but pick up to 10 to 14 knots and higher at times. A very nice sail for a rendezvous with Micky Smith and Leslie on Distant End a Globe 38 and John Lund on Friehet a Freedom 32.
A wonderful spaghetti dinner on Distant End and I bring a fruit salad. Today is the Dinghy Dock Pub race, always a hoot to watch. We make ready to head south tomorrow. As I leave town in the dinghy heading for the boat at anchor, I notice a large sailboat mast leaning way over. As I get closer, it looks like Distant End on a rock. It is! He and John took the boat over to fill up with fuel and water and on the way back he struck a rock hard. The Globe 38 has a full keel so no apparent damage and no water coming in, but will haul out when he gets back home.
A brisk beat towards Annette Inlet on Prevost Island. Narrow and shallow but very nice and protected from the squall that arrives later in the evening. Micky, Colin and John decide to stay for a few days, but I need to get back home. My two months on the water have arrived. I plan on clearing US customs in Roche Harbor mid day then sail over to Jones Island for the evening. Spend happy hour with Deb, Brad, Brady, Louann and Darren from Lynden talking about this and that.
Motor sailed to Pelican Beach on the east side of Cypress Island 8/22. It is my running day so up the hill to Duck Lake and down to Eagle Harbor, then back again. Blood boiling by the time I finish the seven miles. I cook a pot roast for the evening. Lovely night. Flat and calm my last day on the water 8/23 to Shelter Bay. Wonderful cruise with new experiences around every headland.
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