I'd like to remove the hoses on my boat and replace them with poly tubing. can then hook up the sinks just like in your house. I want to put a quick connect fitting at the aft for the hose from the dock. I also would need to put a check value in front of my water tank of course, or probably in front of my 12v water pump?. With this set up I have city water pressure while at the dock, can connect a demand water heater. Realize I still need hoses for the thru fittings. I believe the newer boat are already doing this? The poly tubing has pressure connection fittings. Seems like a better way to go. any thoughts?
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plumbing on a boat
I suspect more knowledgeable people than me will tell you a boat isn't a house in many respects, one of which applies when it comes to plumbing. Good quality hoses are used on boats in preference to pvc/poly piping for lots of reasons, the most important being flexibility and durability. To connect shore water, you will want to put a check valve on the pressure side of the pump as well as a reducing valve to protect the system from excess pressure. Don
I suspect more knowledgeable people than me will tell you a boat isn't a house in many respects, one of which applies when it comes to plumbing. Good quality hoses are used on boats in preference to pvc/poly piping for lots of reasons, the most important being flexibility and durability. To connect shore water, you will want to put a check valve on the pressure side of the pump as well as a reducing valve to protect the system from excess pressure. Don
Be Careful with that
Steve, A failure at certain points with this system may sink your boat as hose water would fill the bilge...I would advise against it. Perhaps, add in additional water tank. Also - rigid home plumbing systems are not meant for the constant flexing that goes on in a boat. Rob
Steve, A failure at certain points with this system may sink your boat as hose water would fill the bilge...I would advise against it. Perhaps, add in additional water tank. Also - rigid home plumbing systems are not meant for the constant flexing that goes on in a boat. Rob
Get a timer 
You can leave the water on ... They (Home Depot etc) sell a nifty gadget that is used for watering plants and yards. It's a water timer. You set it for the number of gallons, turn on the water and walk away. When the set volume of water has gone through the timer, it shuts the water off. Set it for the number of gallons your pumps can handle in an hour or so and forget it. If a hose fails inside the boat, the worst than can happen is the pumps run for an hour or two. I wouldn't leave the boat for weeks with the water on, but when I was living aboard I slept better knowing I had a "fuse" in the shore water system. 100 gallons goes a long way on a boat, reset when you turn the water on Friday night and turn the water off when you leave Monday morning. I doubt you'll use 100 gallons. Just a thought. As far as the plumbing goes, by boat had copper pipe in the system. Sweated joints and fittings just like a house. Never had a problem with leaks or cracks. I used hose when I redid the system, but after 20+ years of Catalina flex the pipe was still sound. I'm thinking of going with semi rigid PVC just to get rid of the hose clamps. There should be no problem as long as the tubing is supported properly every 16" or so, just like the wire harness. If you are just going to leave it loose in the hull, use hose and check the hoses for chafe regularly.
You can leave the water on ... They (Home Depot etc) sell a nifty gadget that is used for watering plants and yards. It's a water timer. You set it for the number of gallons, turn on the water and walk away. When the set volume of water has gone through the timer, it shuts the water off. Set it for the number of gallons your pumps can handle in an hour or so and forget it. If a hose fails inside the boat, the worst than can happen is the pumps run for an hour or two. I wouldn't leave the boat for weeks with the water on, but when I was living aboard I slept better knowing I had a "fuse" in the shore water system. 100 gallons goes a long way on a boat, reset when you turn the water on Friday night and turn the water off when you leave Monday morning. I doubt you'll use 100 gallons. Just a thought.
As far as the plumbing goes, by boat had copper pipe in the system. Sweated joints and fittings just like a house. Never had a problem with leaks or cracks. I used hose when I redid the system, but after 20+ years of Catalina flex the pipe was still sound. I'm thinking of going with semi rigid PVC just to get rid of the hose clamps. There should be no problem as long as the tubing is supported properly every 16" or so, just like the wire harness. If you are just going to leave it loose in the hull, use hose and check the hoses for chafe regularly.
Inline hose shut off
I install a brass inline garden hose shut off at the input conection on the boat so I don't have to worry about someone at the dock turning the hose on when I'm not there. Most of the time I have used the on board water system and this year I'm going to figure out a way to fill the tank while hooked to city water by turning a few valves.
I install a brass inline garden hose shut off at the input conection on the boat so I don't have to worry about someone at the dock turning the hose on when I'm not there. Most of the time I have used the on board water system and this year I'm going to figure out a way to fill the tank while hooked to city water by turning a few valves.
stagnant water
I don't know how far your shore water has to come before it gets to your boat and I don't know how much use the water supply gets from others. At my slip, I have to run the shore water for 5 to 10 minutes just to get the funky taste and smell out of the supply lines before I fill my tank unless the lines have been purged by others washing decks etc. Especially in very warm weather.
I don't know how far your shore water has to come before it gets to your boat and I don't know how much use the water supply gets from others. At my slip, I have to run the shore water for 5 to 10 minutes just to get the funky taste and smell out of the supply lines before I fill my tank unless the lines have been purged by others washing decks etc. Especially in very warm weather.
Shore water
That's the great thing about the shore water connection...you just turn the sink water on and let it run for a minute (my marina is very active...well...for a marina.). The more you use it, the fresher the water is. I would say it's fresher then water from the tank. Having those quick connectors sure does make it easy to switch from shore water to washing the boat easily.
That's the great thing about the shore water connection...you just turn the sink water on and let it run for a minute (my marina is very active...well...for a marina.). The more you use it, the fresher the water is. I would say it's fresher then water from the tank. Having those quick connectors sure does make it easy to switch from shore water to washing the boat easily.
CAUTION
I know some one who had a brand new camper and had city water hooked up during the night while sleeping the noise woke them up to a lot of water damage all over the camper and running out the doors but did not sink it so be careful you don't sink your boat,I have not seen city water hook ups on new boats I could be wrong but could because its not safe. I have been RVing and boating a lot of years and have seen new and old things screw up so always add a shut off valve and use it. nick
I know some one who had a brand new camper and had city water hooked up during the night while sleeping the noise woke them up to a lot of water damage all over the camper and running out the doors but did not sink it so be careful you don't sink your boat,I have not seen city water hook ups on new boats I could be wrong but could because its not safe. I have been RVing and boating a lot of years and have seen new and old things screw up so always add a shut off valve and use it. nick
I would not use city water pressure
Fill the tank and use it from there. There are a lot of jury rigged setups for safety but I would not trust any of them. Besides that, it will change the water in your tank as you use it up. PVC pipe is ok if you use flex connections at each end and anyplace where it needs to bend a lot.
Fill the tank and use it from there. There are a lot of jury rigged setups for safety but I would not trust any of them. Besides that, it will change the water in your tank as you use it up. PVC pipe is ok if you use flex connections at each end and anyplace where it needs to bend a lot.
check good old boat or
I know I should have catagorized all my magazines. I remember two atricles on this very subject, with diagrams on how to do it. So your answer is it can be done. I believe most people shut the system off at night and when yoiu leave the boat for any time. And yes, new boats have this system in place, along with the boat system. It was either in Good OlD Boat or Practical Sailor or PBO. I'll look tonight and see if I can find it.
I know I should have catagorized all my magazines. I remember two atricles on this very subject, with diagrams on how to do it. So your answer is it can be done. I believe most people shut the system off at night and when yoiu leave the boat for any time. And yes, new boats have this system in place, along with the boat system. It was either in Good OlD Boat or Practical Sailor or PBO. I'll look tonight and see if I can find it.
found it
Page 430 of the 2003 West Marine has the system you decribe. Now I wonder why would you ask if anyone has any thoughts on it if the system you describe is being used and generally accepted? The only thing I would do is add a shut off at the intake so that the water is off during the night or while away, and that is one item not mentioned in the West system. The other is the addition of a water maker.
Page 430 of the 2003 West Marine has the system you decribe. Now I wonder why would you ask if anyone has any thoughts on it if the system you describe is being used and generally accepted? The only thing I would do is add a shut off at the intake so that the water is off during the night or while away, and that is one item not mentioned in the West system. The other is the addition of a water maker.
No need to add another shut-off...there is one.
The faucet on the dock is the shut off for the system. Turn it off when you retire for the night or leave the boat.
The faucet on the dock is the shut off for the system. Turn it off when you retire for the night or leave the boat.
plumbing etc.
Reguarding plumbing systems.Whichever pressure reduction system or filtration used,please remember the water inside the supply line makes an excellent arc path to ground during a storm. With a 56ft lightening rod on my vessel and surviving Katrina.. I recommend physically disconnecting all services supplied from shore when away for extended periods. Most R.V. stores sell a brass reducer/check valve to control city pressures and NSF hoses. Polyprop pipes tastes like plastic..
Reguarding plumbing systems.Whichever pressure reduction system or filtration used,please remember the water inside the supply line makes an excellent arc path to ground during a storm. With a 56ft lightening rod on my vessel and surviving Katrina.. I recommend physically disconnecting all services supplied from shore when away for extended periods. Most R.V. stores sell a brass reducer/check valve to control city pressures and NSF hoses. Polyprop pipes tastes like plastic..
why
I’ve seen several (live-aboard) boats sunk (or nearly so) by ruptured plumbing lines, when left connected to municipal water - with and without Pressure Reducing devices. City water should always be valved off or disconnected when you’re absent the boat. There’s just too little “upside” to dependance on semi-rigid plumbing or PRD’s. Many municipalities also require a vacuum breaker (check valve) on the water supply hose bib. OMHO Gord
I’ve seen several (live-aboard) boats sunk (or nearly so) by ruptured plumbing lines, when left connected to municipal water - with and without Pressure Reducing devices. City water should always be valved off or disconnected when you’re absent the boat. There’s just too little “upside” to dependance on semi-rigid plumbing or PRD’s. Many municipalities also require a vacuum breaker (check valve) on the water supply hose bib. OMHO Gord
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