I am looking for input from anyone with plaxiglass or teak experience. I am attempting to replace my teak veneer companion way with tinted pexiglass. I also have to rebuild the companion way fram with teak. Both of these items are hard to find in my area. I have contactred the local glass and wood suppliers in my area. Both say it will be an expensive custom order. The hardware store indicated that there would be a minimum order becasue they don't stock it. I don't need very much. Does anyone have anny ideas on inexpensive suppliers (mailorder or internet?). What thickness on the plexiglass is appropriate for this ussage. I am trying to find 1/2" tinted plexiglass to avaiod warping. Is this too thick? Has anyone found an alternative to teak? I attempted to use oak on some small areas but it is holding up poorly. One of the hardware stores recomended purple heart. Is this a suitable substitute. I saw it in the store (unfinnished) and it looked offensive. I also seen it on a cabinet makers do it yourself show (finished) and it looked like cherrywood. I have tried all the hardware shops in my area. I am hesitant to ask the boatyars as it is their busness to repair boats and not supply the do-it-yourselfer. Things allways seem to be two or three times the price there because it is a marine supply place. Help ? Brian Courchesne
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Jim Willis
For ocean sailing, Lexan is best
If you get "pooped" the companionway door can stop your boat from being swamped. While Plixiglass is more clear (actually more clear than glass) it eventually gets "crazed" on the surface. Half inch lexan is essentially bullet proof and very tough. It weathers by superficial yellowing that is easy to remove. It never goes brittle. After having a companionway door split down the middle in mid pacific (it slammed shut and was built with the Teak grain the "wrong way" I did a temp repair and then had two new doors made at Ala Wai Marine in Honolulu. I bought lexan from TAP plastics, who now do internet orders (www.Tapplastics.com) and these were put into a nice Teak surround. Any good joiner or cabinet maker should be able to do the same. To finish the whole thing off, I had stainless holders made for an internal teak bar to prevent the doors from being stove in by big waves. However the next stage of sailing off into these big waves has been delayed= hopefully not indefinately!
If you get "pooped" the companionway door can stop your boat from being swamped. While Plixiglass is more clear (actually more clear than glass) it eventually gets "crazed" on the surface. Half inch lexan is essentially bullet proof and very tough. It weathers by superficial yellowing that is easy to remove. It never goes brittle. After having a companionway door split down the middle in mid pacific (it slammed shut and was built with the Teak grain the "wrong way" I did a temp repair and then had two new doors made at Ala Wai Marine in Honolulu. I bought lexan from TAP plastics, who now do internet orders (www.Tapplastics.com) and these were put into a nice Teak surround. Any good joiner or cabinet maker should be able to do the same. To finish the whole thing off, I had stainless holders made for an internal teak bar to prevent the doors from being stove in by big waves. However the next stage of sailing off into these big waves has been delayed= hopefully not indefinately!
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hp
Thoughts
Half-inch plexi indeed sounds bulletproof. I'm sure something thinner would work just as well. Try the Boat US or West Marine catalogues for teak. They probably have it.
Half-inch plexi indeed sounds bulletproof. I'm sure something thinner would work just as well. Try the Boat US or West Marine catalogues for teak. They probably have it.
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Tom Ehmke
Try www.kencraftcompany.com, Brian.
I'm sure that there are other hardwood suppliers closer to you geographically, but the website contains a listing of different hardwoods and prices/bd.ft. Teak is $16.50/bd.ft. kind of steep for my taste, but it is available. I'm doing some cabinet work in the cabin area on my ODay 272 and have decided to use mahogany @$4.50/bd.ft. still kinda pricey, but it is a durable wood that can be stained to blend with the existing teak and teak veneer plywood. Tom
I'm sure that there are other hardwood suppliers closer to you geographically, but the website contains a listing of different hardwoods and prices/bd.ft. Teak is $16.50/bd.ft. kind of steep for my taste, but it is available. I'm doing some cabinet work in the cabin area on my ODay 272 and have decided to use mahogany @$4.50/bd.ft. still kinda pricey, but it is a durable wood that can be stained to blend with the existing teak and teak veneer plywood. Tom
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Dave Royce
PlexiGlass
I own a 23.5 and put in a one piece 1/2" plexiglass for my companion way. I have the two piece factory wood but in the summer the plexiglass is nice. The lock hasp is in the same place as the wood on. It is a nice change and it lets in lots of light.
I own a 23.5 and put in a one piece 1/2" plexiglass for my companion way. I have the two piece factory wood but in the summer the plexiglass is nice. The lock hasp is in the same place as the wood on. It is a nice change and it lets in lots of light.
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Doug T.
Teak
Teak is the wood of choice on boats because of it's unique combination of properties: water resistance, strength and beauty. Teak is an oily wood that resists water intrusion and will last for years and years with no protection at all. (Witness all that greying teak on the decks of boats in your marina.) You will see other woods used on boat interiors (mahogony, holly, cherry), but you'll also notice that they are always well varnished. If not, they'll soon rot. Oak is very strong, but can't withstand the marine environment. (By the way, redwood and cedar also have great rot resistance, but they aren't generally strong enough for any kind of structural duty -- especially in any safety-critical applications like boats.) There are lots of places to buy teak, but it's guaranteed to be expensive. It's a rare wood that's in high demand. Try: http://www.maritimewoodproducts.com/teakcon.htm http://www.thaiteakmarine.com/ (if you want to go direct to the source) http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/marine_lumber.htm http://www.worldpanel.com/ http://www.woodmatters.com/catalog/lumber.html http://www.westwindhardwood.com/woodpr.html And, for a list of marine lumber suppliers in "your" area: http://www.glen-l.com/resources/lumber-suppliers.html
Teak is the wood of choice on boats because of it's unique combination of properties: water resistance, strength and beauty. Teak is an oily wood that resists water intrusion and will last for years and years with no protection at all. (Witness all that greying teak on the decks of boats in your marina.) You will see other woods used on boat interiors (mahogony, holly, cherry), but you'll also notice that they are always well varnished. If not, they'll soon rot. Oak is very strong, but can't withstand the marine environment. (By the way, redwood and cedar also have great rot resistance, but they aren't generally strong enough for any kind of structural duty -- especially in any safety-critical applications like boats.) There are lots of places to buy teak, but it's guaranteed to be expensive. It's a rare wood that's in high demand. Try: http://www.maritimewoodproducts.com/teakcon.htm http://www.thaiteakmarine.com/ (if you want to go direct to the source) http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/marine_lumber.htm http://www.worldpanel.com/ http://www.woodmatters.com/catalog/lumber.html http://www.westwindhardwood.com/woodpr.html And, for a list of marine lumber suppliers in "your" area: http://www.glen-l.com/resources/lumber-suppliers.html
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Bob Camarena
Tap Plastics
Quite a few sailors in our area have had hatchboards made by our local Tap Plastics. One advantage of having them cut the pieces is that they have the right equipment, can polish the edges, and any mistakes are on them. The plastic can be expensive and if my experience with plywood is any indication, I'd mess up at least one piece in the process. Also, mahogany is a traditional boat wood and is more readily available than teak. Note that "luan" is not the same as true mahogany.
Quite a few sailors in our area have had hatchboards made by our local Tap Plastics. One advantage of having them cut the pieces is that they have the right equipment, can polish the edges, and any mistakes are on them. The plastic can be expensive and if my experience with plywood is any indication, I'd mess up at least one piece in the process. Also, mahogany is a traditional boat wood and is more readily available than teak. Note that "luan" is not the same as true mahogany.
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Jay Kent
Plexiglass with a flair
is what I ended up doing on my boat. The wood had split and 1/2" plex with a "buffed" or "grain" finish worked out best for us. First of all, if the buffed or grain look ever gets scratched, you can use a mild sand paper and remove any scratches; secondly, it lets in light, but no one can see thru it; thirdly, we drilled several 3/16" holes (in a predetermined pattern that we had chosen) through the glass to allow ventilation. These were done a slight upward angle and, therefore, do not let any rain water inside! It is great......the only negative that we've found it that they weigh more than the wood ones. We did have three boards made to help with this issue, though.
is what I ended up doing on my boat. The wood had split and 1/2" plex with a "buffed" or "grain" finish worked out best for us. First of all, if the buffed or grain look ever gets scratched, you can use a mild sand paper and remove any scratches; secondly, it lets in light, but no one can see thru it; thirdly, we drilled several 3/16" holes (in a predetermined pattern that we had chosen) through the glass to allow ventilation. These were done a slight upward angle and, therefore, do not let any rain water inside! It is great......the only negative that we've found it that they weigh more than the wood ones. We did have three boards made to help with this issue, though.
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Bob
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