This weekend I replaced the plexiglass fixed ports on our 94 H29.5. We bought the boat as a new boat in 96 and the plexiglass started to craze in 97 so I had the local sail loft make some reflective, non-breathable covers that snapped on the exterior. We kept them on most of time except for cleaning and the odd overnight stay. They really helped to keep the cabin cool in the hot Texas sun. By last year they were so crazed that they leaked from wind blown rain. I think that the non-breathable covers may have accelerated the crazing. Moisture trapped between the cover and the plexiglass combined with the hot sun may have heated them up too much. Or maybe a combination of age and heat. Next weekend I’m going to replace the windshield. It’s thicker. 3/8 vs. ¼ inch. I’m having new covers made using a breathable, white sun screen material. I remember several previous posts over the years that expressed concerns about the large Hunter ports on the new models and whether they would be structurally sound to withstand large waves experienced with blue water sailing. My old ports broke into several pieces during removal. I used very little force and they just crumbled apart. The south one into seven pieces and the north into three pieces. The boat has been in the same slip since 96. The one that got all the sun was the worst. I think that anyone contemplating a voyage that might involve waves over the bow should inspect their port lights for deep crazing before heading out. They may need replacement. Monty
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Good call!
Who'd a thunk? Nothing's worse than water rushing into the cabin, as we know from "The Perfect Storm."
Who'd a thunk? Nothing's worse than water rushing into the cabin, as we know from "The Perfect Storm."
Plastics source?
Curious as to whether you are using "Regal Plastics" in Austin as a source for plastics. They have been very helpful over the years with things I needed for my 28.5.
Curious as to whether you are using "Regal Plastics" in Austin as a source for plastics. They have been very helpful over the years with things I needed for my 28.5.
Marc....
I ordered from Hunter and recommend others do the same. The top edge and couple of inches on both sides have a 3/4" chamfer. So the top edge starts at 1/16' and is chamfered 3/4" to match the 1/4" thickness. It provides a large surface area for bonding. This might be difficult for most shops to duplicate. I'm not sure if other Hunter models use the same detail. Also used Dow Corning 795 as specified by Hunter which is a structural sealant much stronger than regular silicone. Thanks for the suggestion. Monty
I ordered from Hunter and recommend others do the same. The top edge and couple of inches on both sides have a 3/4" chamfer. So the top edge starts at 1/16' and is chamfered 3/4" to match the 1/4" thickness. It provides a large surface area for bonding. This might be difficult for most shops to duplicate. I'm not sure if other Hunter models use the same detail. Also used Dow Corning 795 as specified by Hunter which is a structural sealant much stronger than regular silicone. Thanks for the suggestion. Monty
what did hunter charge for the ports and wdshield
what was the cost, how easy did the installation go, I have a 29.5 and want to change the windshield, let us know
what was the cost, how easy did the installation go, I have a 29.5 and want to change the windshield, let us know
More info...
They cost around $450, I can’t find the invoice because the Admiral went home to Canada for a week. Contact Mike Thomas at Hunter Marine. Old posts referred to a free installation video from Hunter. I didn’t get one I guess because I forgot to ask. Also ask if they can ship you the Dow Corning 795. It’s hard to find. Do not substitute. This is same stuff used to install windows in high rise buildings. It’s a structural sealant and not bathroom caulk. I found one supplier in Austin from the Dow Corning web site and of course they are located in the opposite corner of town. Not expensive, about $5 a tube. I bought 4 and have 1 3/4 tubes left to do the windshield. I hope it’s enough. Get 5. Installation wasn’t difficult just time consuming. It took 5-6 hours a port spread over two days. The hardest part was accessing the ports because the boat is in the water. At first I worked on deck and quickly got tired of rubbing against the rigging and stanchions and I’m skinny. So, then I changed the dock lines so the boat was close to the floating dock and continued working standing up stooped over the rail. It was windy and choppy for both days. It’s very difficult to lay a straight bead of sealant standing on a floating dock while the boat is bobbing up and down. It would be much easier if the boat is on the hard. Removing the old sealant took the most time. This is the most critical step. New sealant will not adhere to old. I used plastic caulk removal tools from HD and undiluted IG pink to dissolve the remnants. I hope this doesn’t discourage you from doing the work yourself. I am willing to provide more step by step details if requested. I’d like to complete the windshield before in case there are any differences. Cheers, Monty
They cost around $450, I can’t find the invoice because the Admiral went home to Canada for a week. Contact Mike Thomas at Hunter Marine. Old posts referred to a free installation video from Hunter. I didn’t get one I guess because I forgot to ask. Also ask if they can ship you the Dow Corning 795. It’s hard to find. Do not substitute. This is same stuff used to install windows in high rise buildings. It’s a structural sealant and not bathroom caulk. I found one supplier in Austin from the Dow Corning web site and of course they are located in the opposite corner of town. Not expensive, about $5 a tube. I bought 4 and have 1 3/4 tubes left to do the windshield. I hope it’s enough. Get 5. Installation wasn’t difficult just time consuming. It took 5-6 hours a port spread over two days. The hardest part was accessing the ports because the boat is in the water. At first I worked on deck and quickly got tired of rubbing against the rigging and stanchions and I’m skinny. So, then I changed the dock lines so the boat was close to the floating dock and continued working standing up stooped over the rail. It was windy and choppy for both days. It’s very difficult to lay a straight bead of sealant standing on a floating dock while the boat is bobbing up and down. It would be much easier if the boat is on the hard. Removing the old sealant took the most time. This is the most critical step. New sealant will not adhere to old. I used plastic caulk removal tools from HD and undiluted IG pink to dissolve the remnants. I hope this doesn’t discourage you from doing the work yourself. I am willing to provide more step by step details if requested. I’d like to complete the windshield before in case there are any differences. Cheers, Monty
Try Goo Gone . . .
It has a citric base and is not as toxic as Goof Off. I've found it works pretty good on all silicones. You still need to remove most of the silicone by mechanical means, but the Goo Gone will then clean up the residue with relative ease. Its also much cheaper than Island Girl.
It has a citric base and is not as toxic as Goof Off. I've found it works pretty good on all silicones. You still need to remove most of the silicone by mechanical means, but the Goo Gone will then clean up the residue with relative ease. Its also much cheaper than Island Girl.
Here's a link I saved from a thread a couple of
weeks ago. This stuff is just for silicone removal; http://www.amtexchemical.com/pages/1/page1.html?refresh=1067351487284
weeks ago. This stuff is just for silicone removal; http://www.amtexchemical.com/pages/1/page1.html?refresh=1067351487284
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