Please fix my paint job....

[Team118]

I reached my level of incompetence. I know most of my work on the boat...or my house for that matter is better than what the average joe could do, but certainly not up to some of the work I've seen from others on this site.

Over the last 2 weeks I have repainted by stern to remove the old name and put the new one on.

I sanded the stern as the old lettering was painted on. I progressively went up to 320 grit. 3 coats of primer, sanding after each up to 320 grit.

I used Interlux Brightside Maroon. I prepped everything per everything I've read including Mainsails very well written piece on this site (I think)

I used a fine foam roller and tipped after. The first coat sucked. So after it dried enough, I sanded and repainted. The second coat sucked, so I sanded again.

The third coat wasn't as bad, but the tipping left marks. Which means I either didn't thin enough. ( actually I didn't thin at all) It was shiny through the wavy lines and it wouldn't have been noticable unless you were close. But it was bothering me.

So I reread everything again. It was a nice 75 degree day. I started in the late morning, no humidity, no wind, out of the sun. I thinned and it really seemed lke I had it going.

Unfortunately, I think I screwed myself with the tipping again. I just know if I try again, it will be the same result.

So here is my question.

Can I sand the painting I have done with 1000 - 2000 grit wetpaper. Then use 3m buffing compund with a buffer to bring out the 'shinyness'?

How many days should I wait, if this will fix my work?

Is there a difference between regular 3M Buffing compound and 3M Marine Buffing compound? (other than the price)

I know this would be more work that actually trying to repaint, but the weather isn't expected to cooperate this week and it's only the stern, so it isn't a huge job.

Am I screwed or can I salvage a bad situation?

Thanks
Chris

 

[foolproof]

Chris:

My supplier (Kansas City Sailing) told me that the lighter colors i.e. white, off-white, VERY light tans, etc. will flow out better than the darker colors. He warned me that if I go with a darker shade I will have to thin more and do a bang up job tipping.

First question: Are you using a good quality brush like a Badger hair? The people I know that have painted say that the single most important tool.

2nd: Are you using a solvent resistant roller. Any others may degrade and break down as you use them.

3rd: Does the paint feel 'sticky' as you're tipping? You could be over or under thinning...Interlux recommends no more than 10% maximum.

Last question: Did you wipe everything down before you started to paint? This probably isn't the problem, but everything I have read says that ANY foreign material can ruin your work.

Hope it all works out for you.

Mike

 

[Team118]

Well, you're questions prove I am a poster child for what not to do while painting....

I bought the most expensive brush Home Depot sells...it was NOT badger hair...synthetic.

I bought there most ultra fine foam rollers, I never thought to see if they resistant. However, they did not come apart as I paint.

I put very little thinner in the last time, and it was generic paint thinner. Probably should have used Interlux specific brand.

Sigh.

Last night I sanded down my mistakes with 400 grit, then 2 passes with 1000 grit and 2 passes with 2000 grit.

If I could keep the stern wet, it would look great! I don't have a high speed polisher but I tried putting the 3M rubbing compound on by hand in a small area.

To be honest, it doesn't look too bad. I'm going to go but a polisher right now along with the right pads recommended by Main Sail. We shal see!

Thanks for your advice Mike, appreciate your stopping by and giving me your take on it!

Chris

 

[foolproof]

Been down that road...

Chris:

I have been down the wrong road enough times to appreciate any help that comes my way. Just last weekend I went to KC Sailing to ask which body filler to use to repair chips. He told me "No, no, no, not body filler. What you need is this epoxy and this filler". He took the time to show me how to mix it, and spread it, and explained how to sand it. I did it just the way he said, and lo and behold, I did a great job at it!

It just goes to show that if you do it the right way first, it will probably work the way it's supposed to.

As far as your choice of thinner goes, I would definitely follow the manufacturers recommendations. They formulate their products a certain way, to be used with other such products. I bet that it will work a TON better for you if you use their products. They may cost more, but the cost will be recovered pretty quickly when you don't have to do a job over and over again.

Good luck with your future painting.

By the way, I am using Interlux Perfection, a 2 part polyeurathane paint that is highly recommended. I read the can and it said to thin if the humidity is high. I didn't know it, but the humidity was pretty high that day, and sure enough, the mixed paint started getting sticky soon after I mixed it. The next time I painted, I checked and found the humidity was pretty high, so I thinned the way they recommended. Guess what? The paint took a lot longer to get sticky and it flowed much better...in fact, I used a cheap Home Depot foam paint brush and the paint still looked great. I can hardly wait to do the decks and hull, now that I know how it all works!

 

[Team118]

Thanks for your advice Mike and also a big thanks to Main Sail's forum post on the right materials and how to do it.

I went to Harbor Freigt and got their cheap $39 polisher. Went to Walmart and bought 3M's Rubbing Compound and Pep Boys to buy a wool pad for the rubbing compound and a foam pad for the 3M Finesse It II I still had to buy.

Well I destroyed the cheap ass Pep Boy's pads putting the rubbing compound on...BUT it was a remarkable difference in the finish even after that!

A co-worker suggested I go to an auto finisher store in our area that specializes in detailing cars only. They pointed me to a quality wool pad on a hard backing with a velcro backing and a quality black foam pad with the same set up. And the Finesse It II.

I went back to the boat and redid the rubbing compound with the new pad and MAN! What a difference!

Then I went crazy and used the Finesse It and it was a religous experience.

I keep driving down to the boat just to look at it...I even put a picture of it on my phone. It's my happy place!

Thanks so much!


PS
It's funny to see the change is seasons.

Of course it would have been easier to change my name to Tom....

 

[foolproof]

Awesome!

That looks great! I never considered doing the transom in a different color like that, but it looks cool...may have to try that!

On a different note...I have the same single rail pulpit like you have, but I really want perch seats on the middle rail. I'm going to have a welder friend of mine weld in a middle rail with its' own vertical support, then have him machine some seats out of Starboard. I will post pics when I get them done.