I just purchased a Harken MkIII roller furling unit for my 1986 H28.5. Does anyone who has installed a furler on the 28.5 have the pin-to-pin headstay length used? I measured mine yesterday from the bosun's chair, and it was 39'0". It was awkward trying to get a good measurement. Wondering how this compares with others who have the Harken unit installed.
Pin-to-Pin Headstay length
- Thread starter gulfsailorp323
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Main thing I can tell you...
is that you will really enjoy and use your boat more with your top-of-the-line furler!!! I owned a 28.5 for 6+ years and feel it is one of the best mid-size boats Hunter ever built. Can't help with the measurement you need, but I'm sure someone here can help you. Best of luck w/your 28.5.
is that you will really enjoy and use your boat more with your top-of-the-line furler!!! I owned a 28.5 for 6+ years and feel it is one of the best mid-size boats Hunter ever built. Can't help with the measurement you need, but I'm sure someone here can help you. Best of luck w/your 28.5.
Best way is to measure it on the ground.
Set up a halyard to hold the mast and a safety sling passing a line over the bottom spreaders and tying both ends to the bow cleats. Take the tension off the forestay with the halyard and take the forestay down. It may help to slightly loosen your backstay and shrouds. You will need to re-tune the riggin after the job is done. Lay the forestay down on the dock and strech it making a mark with a pencil at both eye lids. You can take a measurement for your records but the desired length is marked on the floor. Asemble your furler on the ground according to the manufacturers instructions. The desired length of the unit once assembled should match your markings on the floor. A bottom adjuster nut shoiuld take care of any minor discrepancies. Utilize the jib halyard to help raise the top of the unit. Good luck and enjoy the furler.
Set up a halyard to hold the mast and a safety sling passing a line over the bottom spreaders and tying both ends to the bow cleats. Take the tension off the forestay with the halyard and take the forestay down. It may help to slightly loosen your backstay and shrouds. You will need to re-tune the riggin after the job is done. Lay the forestay down on the dock and strech it making a mark with a pencil at both eye lids. You can take a measurement for your records but the desired length is marked on the floor. Asemble your furler on the ground according to the manufacturers instructions. The desired length of the unit once assembled should match your markings on the floor. A bottom adjuster nut shoiuld take care of any minor discrepancies. Utilize the jib halyard to help raise the top of the unit. Good luck and enjoy the furler.
Go Long
I recently installed a new Harken furler on my 1978, HC33. I took some sage advice and replaced the forestay also, went up one size larger. I measured the forestay longer than necessary, assembled (dry fit)everything on the ground and then hoisted and connected the top stay fitting to the mast. I walked the furler (had a friend help) to the bow and eyeballed the entire unit before the final cut of the new forestay. This may not be the best way to do it, but it worked for me, and eliminated the worry of ending up too short. Also, allow extra room for tensioning of the unit. I did end up tightening the back stay some. One other suggestion...if you can talk to a rigger in your area, they may have some inside professional tricks they would be willing to share for a DYI guy. It might just be worth your $$ to hire the rigger and let them assume the responsibility. Good luck.
I recently installed a new Harken furler on my 1978, HC33. I took some sage advice and replaced the forestay also, went up one size larger. I measured the forestay longer than necessary, assembled (dry fit)everything on the ground and then hoisted and connected the top stay fitting to the mast. I walked the furler (had a friend help) to the bow and eyeballed the entire unit before the final cut of the new forestay. This may not be the best way to do it, but it worked for me, and eliminated the worry of ending up too short. Also, allow extra room for tensioning of the unit. I did end up tightening the back stay some. One other suggestion...if you can talk to a rigger in your area, they may have some inside professional tricks they would be willing to share for a DYI guy. It might just be worth your $$ to hire the rigger and let them assume the responsibility. Good luck.
When cutting your wire,
measure twice and cut once. In an older boat it would be a good idea to replace the forestay wire. If after assembly and swagging the wire to the drum by mistake you end up short you can add an eye jaw toggle on top to extend 2-3". Have all your materials at hand before you start the job and this is at least a two person job.
measure twice and cut once. In an older boat it would be a good idea to replace the forestay wire. If after assembly and swagging the wire to the drum by mistake you end up short you can add an eye jaw toggle on top to extend 2-3". Have all your materials at hand before you start the job and this is at least a two person job.
Mast Rake
I understand how mast rake will affect weather/lee helm. I have sailed the boat twice in light air since purchasing, so I have not tried to fine tune the mast. I know the Harken manual has a place in the book for recording pin-to-pin length of your rig, so I was hoping someone with a 28.5 might have this dimension already recorded, and could tell me how their boat handled with regard to weather/lee helm. We are just now getting some nice fall winds, so I will pay closer attention to how my boat is handling, and make some adjustments as necessary.
I understand how mast rake will affect weather/lee helm. I have sailed the boat twice in light air since purchasing, so I have not tried to fine tune the mast. I know the Harken manual has a place in the book for recording pin-to-pin length of your rig, so I was hoping someone with a 28.5 might have this dimension already recorded, and could tell me how their boat handled with regard to weather/lee helm. We are just now getting some nice fall winds, so I will pay closer attention to how my boat is handling, and make some adjustments as necessary.
Hey bud, use your measurements
not anyone elses. Close measurements may vary from boat to boat. If you are reluctant to drop the forestay get a rigger to install your furler.
not anyone elses. Close measurements may vary from boat to boat. If you are reluctant to drop the forestay get a rigger to install your furler.
Headstays
...have a usable life of 10 years. If yours is of that age or more, for sure replace it. Don't forget, if you are making your own headstay, that the new one needs to be made shorter than the old. After installation, the new headstay will go through an initial stretch which will changed the measured length. There is a formula to calculate the amount of stretch based on length and wire size. My advice is talk to a rigger/rig shop before you begin. There's more to it than most folks know.
...have a usable life of 10 years. If yours is of that age or more, for sure replace it. Don't forget, if you are making your own headstay, that the new one needs to be made shorter than the old. After installation, the new headstay will go through an initial stretch which will changed the measured length. There is a formula to calculate the amount of stretch based on length and wire size. My advice is talk to a rigger/rig shop before you begin. There's more to it than most folks know.
May not be easy finding a rigger
in Tenessee. I don't think they flock to your part of the country so the cost or the wait for one may be steep. I would not recommend using the old wire as it could be OME. The reason is the wire is going to be covered by the extrussion and not visually available to periodic inspections. The cost of new wire is insignificant compared to the peace of mind or the cost of a possible failure. It is true, a new wire will initially strech and the forestay and backstay will require retuning. I believe you have a masthead rig. The amount of strech over some 39' will be in millimeters and easily taken up by the adjusters. When assembling set up your adjuster to be able to take in (tighten) at least 2/3 of its run. See if you can hook up with someone at Harken's product support that could answer your questions or check some of the Rigging companies on-line that maybe could have someone walk you through the necessary steps. Don't use the halyard shackle to tie off the mast; use the halyard line itself to tie it to a sturdy deck fitting. A back up sling is strongly recommended. Someone is going to be going up a rather loose mast so safety should be principal consideration.
in Tenessee. I don't think they flock to your part of the country so the cost or the wait for one may be steep. I would not recommend using the old wire as it could be OME. The reason is the wire is going to be covered by the extrussion and not visually available to periodic inspections. The cost of new wire is insignificant compared to the peace of mind or the cost of a possible failure. It is true, a new wire will initially strech and the forestay and backstay will require retuning. I believe you have a masthead rig. The amount of strech over some 39' will be in millimeters and easily taken up by the adjusters. When assembling set up your adjuster to be able to take in (tighten) at least 2/3 of its run. See if you can hook up with someone at Harken's product support that could answer your questions or check some of the Rigging companies on-line that maybe could have someone walk you through the necessary steps. Don't use the halyard shackle to tie off the mast; use the halyard line itself to tie it to a sturdy deck fitting. A back up sling is strongly recommended. Someone is going to be going up a rather loose mast so safety should be principal consideration.
Thanks for all the tips
Thanks for all the advice on the furling install. I am going to order new wire for a new headstay, and will make the final length adjustment on the ground. I will be using a swageless fitting, and will not order a headstay for a specific length.
Thanks for all the advice on the furling install. I am going to order new wire for a new headstay, and will make the final length adjustment on the ground. I will be using a swageless fitting, and will not order a headstay for a specific length.
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