picture of previous post about transom crack. Also there is no wood inside hollow area behind crack and does not lool like there ever was. Can this crack be just epoxyed and clamped back together until dried or do I need something stronger?
picture of transom crack
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Now we have here a purple pony.
This crack is in the joint between the hull and the deck/hull liner. The two parts were moulded separately and then joined in manufacture. Probably in this case and from this distance it is a matter of forcing the joint enough to effect some cleaning and rebedding the pieces with adhesive caulk from your favorite source.
This crack is in the joint between the hull and the deck/hull liner. The two parts were moulded separately and then joined in manufacture. Probably in this case and from this distance it is a matter of forcing the joint enough to effect some cleaning and rebedding the pieces with adhesive caulk from your favorite source.
From what I can see from this
..picture, the top of your cracked transom appears to be load bearing as the backstay seems anchored to it. I would guess that the backstay pressure is at least part of the reason for this crack in the first place, as the wood seems oldish and dryish. I think you have a number of relatively easy choices to repair this damage. It's hard to tell from the picture if you could drill a half dozen or so holes down through the top of the transom and sink some hefty screws into it to bring it back together. But if this were my boat, I think I craft, or have crafted, a pair of longish stainless "U" shaped straps that would fit over the top of the transom and down either side into which two or more bolts could be through bolted. In either case, I'd also take Ross' advice and squirt some 3M5200 or similar caulk/adhesive between the separated parts first.
..picture, the top of your cracked transom appears to be load bearing as the backstay seems anchored to it. I would guess that the backstay pressure is at least part of the reason for this crack in the first place, as the wood seems oldish and dryish. I think you have a number of relatively easy choices to repair this damage. It's hard to tell from the picture if you could drill a half dozen or so holes down through the top of the transom and sink some hefty screws into it to bring it back together. But if this were my boat, I think I craft, or have crafted, a pair of longish stainless "U" shaped straps that would fit over the top of the transom and down either side into which two or more bolts could be through bolted. In either case, I'd also take Ross' advice and squirt some 3M5200 or similar caulk/adhesive between the separated parts first.
Ross, 5200?
I think 3M-5200 would keep that baby down for the next 100 years. Just make sure you leave want to take it off.
I think 3M-5200 would keep that baby down for the next 100 years. Just make sure you leave want to take it off.
If Warren is Right
From the photo I can't tell but if that wood is supporting the backstay you need some serious repairs. If the wood is rotten and replaceable that is what I'd do. If it is just trim it can be pulled together with screws and glued in place. Clean the crack apply the glue and then screw together.
From the photo I can't tell but if that wood is supporting the backstay you need some serious repairs. If the wood is rotten and replaceable that is what I'd do. If it is just trim it can be pulled together with screws and glued in place. Clean the crack apply the glue and then screw together.
Look like a mod to the orginal design
look at the picture post from the last thread.. http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/fpix.tpl?xfno=21&uid=F&rid=2007078184051.18 Look at the chainplate. They don't look the same. I would check with some other owners and user groups. The chain plate may not be safe.
look at the picture post from the last thread.. http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/fpix.tpl?xfno=21&uid=F&rid=2007078184051.18 Look at the chainplate. They don't look the same. I would check with some other owners and user groups. The chain plate may not be safe.
NYsail, there was a joint like that on Bietzpadlin
(Islander 30) when I got her. I ground it fair, ground the gelcoat back about 6 inches on each side and glassed the entire joint. Then I faired it and painted it. Now there are no worries about the joint opening up.
(Islander 30) when I got her. I ground it fair, ground the gelcoat back about 6 inches on each side and glassed the entire joint. Then I faired it and painted it. Now there are no worries about the joint opening up.
relocate the backstay tang....
After you've made the repair, I recommend you re anchor the backstay from that deck mounted padeye to a solid stainless "tang" bolted through the hull. This will take the pressure off the hull/deck joint so you may avoid a repetition of this failure.
After you've made the repair, I recommend you re anchor the backstay from that deck mounted padeye to a solid stainless "tang" bolted through the hull. This will take the pressure off the hull/deck joint so you may avoid a repetition of this failure.
To summarize the excellent advice-
(it's remarkable how much abreement there is here) Move the backstay to a tang through bolted to the transom if that's the simplest way to get it through bolted to something. Pry open the crack as much as you can without breaking anything, fill as best you can with 5200, thickened epoxy, or other marine adhesive, and clamp or screw it together. Wipe off the excess adhesive, let it cure, and go sailing.
(it's remarkable how much abreement there is here) Move the backstay to a tang through bolted to the transom if that's the simplest way to get it through bolted to something. Pry open the crack as much as you can without breaking anything, fill as best you can with 5200, thickened epoxy, or other marine adhesive, and clamp or screw it together. Wipe off the excess adhesive, let it cure, and go sailing.
Advise to others
The 5200 advise is just fine for a trailer boat like this that will rarely see rough or high stress conditions, but don't use this advise for larger vessels or off shore sailing. The easiest do it yourself repair for a more dependable fix would involve fiberglass wrapping from the transom and over the bulwark tieing the hull and deck together.
The 5200 advise is just fine for a trailer boat like this that will rarely see rough or high stress conditions, but don't use this advise for larger vessels or off shore sailing. The easiest do it yourself repair for a more dependable fix would involve fiberglass wrapping from the transom and over the bulwark tieing the hull and deck together.
I would agree, "relocate the backstay tang.... "
I would move it into the fiberglass. Thats a big job. You will need a new chainplate. Try it into the transom with a backing plate. That would really help make the righ stronger...
I would move it into the fiberglass. Thats a big job. You will need a new chainplate. Try it into the transom with a backing plate. That would really help make the righ stronger...
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