Performing a fuel tank ectomy
- Thread starter 31seahorse
- Start date
You have a tank builder in Bradenton on 301 on the right before Walmart. He does all marine tanks to include some for Christ Craft.
Good evening,
Some things to look for are the obvious, visible leaks and the smell of gasoline (if your tank is gas). Check for water in the fuel.
If it's diesel and it does start leaking, you will be dealing with a mess to clean up instead of a very flammable situation which you would have with gasoline. If your tank is aluminum, watch for corrosion which will appear as a powdery white substance on the surface of the aluminum. This can mask holes that at times can be quite large and not yet leaking.
34 years is a long life for a marine fuel tank. Good luck and keep your eyes and nose open!
Some things to look for are the obvious, visible leaks and the smell of gasoline (if your tank is gas). Check for water in the fuel.
If it's diesel and it does start leaking, you will be dealing with a mess to clean up instead of a very flammable situation which you would have with gasoline. If your tank is aluminum, watch for corrosion which will appear as a powdery white substance on the surface of the aluminum. This can mask holes that at times can be quite large and not yet leaking.
34 years is a long life for a marine fuel tank. Good luck and keep your eyes and nose open!
Fuel Tank Project Update:
I spent Wednesday in the engine/fuel tank area removing the soaked plywood. The fuel was insidious! Pictures show the stages of the removal starting with the last bits of the saturated foam under the tank and continuing to the views of the area ready for the rebuild of the effected areas of wood including the bulkheads of the wet locker (which will soon house our water heater......Oh, great, another project!) and the longitudinal bracing for the inboard side of the fuel tank. That plywood, by the way, forms support for the wet muffler, and the holding tank aft of the muffler. While I'm at this project I will be replacing some tubing that is probably original.
Email contact with RDS Manufacturing in Perry, FL has provided original drawing and build info of the tank and I will contact them today to build the new one that matches the original. Thanks to members for reminding me that is the best course of action.
Pics attached.
Phil
I spent Wednesday in the engine/fuel tank area removing the soaked plywood. The fuel was insidious! Pictures show the stages of the removal starting with the last bits of the saturated foam under the tank and continuing to the views of the area ready for the rebuild of the effected areas of wood including the bulkheads of the wet locker (which will soon house our water heater......Oh, great, another project!) and the longitudinal bracing for the inboard side of the fuel tank. That plywood, by the way, forms support for the wet muffler, and the holding tank aft of the muffler. While I'm at this project I will be replacing some tubing that is probably original.
Email contact with RDS Manufacturing in Perry, FL has provided original drawing and build info of the tank and I will contact them today to build the new one that matches the original. Thanks to members for reminding me that is the best course of action.
Pics attached.
Phil
Attachments
That failure is simply installation error. Many builders cut corners on fuel tank installs!!
#1 Metal fuel tanks should NEVER sit directly on the hull, on wood or anywhere that can trap moisture or on any material such as expanding foam that can get wet....
#2 Metal fuel tanks should be surrounded by air on all sides so the tank can remain dry. Gluing strips of G-10 or similar to the tank bottom with a polyurethane sealant will isolate the tank from moist areas and elevate it enough to create an air gap..
#3 No copper based fittings, brass, bronze, copper etc. shall be in direct contact with an aluminum tank. All fuel fittings should be aluminum, dip tubes should be plastic, never copper, or fully isolated by stainless fittings.
#4 Keep the tank free of water, change fill o-rings at least bi-yearly and check for bottom water regularly by dipping the tank.
#5 Never drop anything in a metal the tank when working on it, especially brass, stainless or metal screws, nuts or washers........
#6 ALWAYS vacuum out a new metal fuel tank before installation!!!!
#7 When ordering a new tank go to .125" / 1/8" wall thickness. The cost difference is peanuts... The bare minimum thickness allowed under ABYC is .090.. I strongly suggest going to .125" !!!
#8 Consider adding two more tank "bungs" or tappings for a future supply & return for a fuel polishing system. A good polishing system can be built for little money and it is MUCH easier if the tappings are already installed.
A well made aluminum tank, properly installed & cared for, can outlast the boat....
:dance: FUEL TANK REPLACEMENT UPDATE:
The project is in its final stages (I hope!). After removing and rebuilding the plywood areas that had been saturated with diesel fuel I painted the hull that would be under the tank. Why? Because I could. Fabricating a grid for the tank to rest on so air flow could get under the tank was nearly a full day project. The frame is generally a capital "F" shape with some cross bracing. I should have taken a picture, but did not. The tough part of the frame was supporting it so it would conform to the shape of the hull. Once that was complete I used Quick Cure 5200 to hold it to the hull. I set the tank in place on the frame and let the 5200 set. On top of the grid I placed a gasket that is for window seals. Two rolls were just enough to put a double-wide covering on the grid. That squelched the squeeking that had been ocurring when the tank just rested on the plastic. It should also keep the tank high and dry. I held the tank in place with 2 X 4 strips on top of the tank forward & inboard. There is a vertical 2 X 4 aft of the tank to keep it positioned.
I have not refilled the tank because I have a few loose ends to deal with: Fuel guage reads 1/4 although tank is empty, need to remove the guage to measure it's length, while the guage is out I will vacuum the inside of the tank as Maine Sail has recommended. Some fuel lines still need to be connected. (Yes, they are new hoses. I will not skimp on this repair at this stage of the project.) The water seperator has been wiped clean, seal and filter replaced. I have proudly put May 2014 on everything that I worked on in that area. (exhaust hose, pumpout hose, tank, fuel fill hose) I placed some foam blocks along the outboard side and forward edge of the tank to help keep "things" from sliding under the tank. That had already happened, but I was able to retrieve the nut driver.
We are headed for the marina Friday to (hopefully) finish all work and launch on Saturday morning. As a special added attraction our batteries (May/08) needed to be replaced! They will also get the May 2014 label!
Thanks for following my posts and for the suggestions. I'll make a final post with pictures after completion.
The project is in its final stages (I hope!). After removing and rebuilding the plywood areas that had been saturated with diesel fuel I painted the hull that would be under the tank. Why? Because I could. Fabricating a grid for the tank to rest on so air flow could get under the tank was nearly a full day project. The frame is generally a capital "F" shape with some cross bracing. I should have taken a picture, but did not. The tough part of the frame was supporting it so it would conform to the shape of the hull. Once that was complete I used Quick Cure 5200 to hold it to the hull. I set the tank in place on the frame and let the 5200 set. On top of the grid I placed a gasket that is for window seals. Two rolls were just enough to put a double-wide covering on the grid. That squelched the squeeking that had been ocurring when the tank just rested on the plastic. It should also keep the tank high and dry. I held the tank in place with 2 X 4 strips on top of the tank forward & inboard. There is a vertical 2 X 4 aft of the tank to keep it positioned.
I have not refilled the tank because I have a few loose ends to deal with: Fuel guage reads 1/4 although tank is empty, need to remove the guage to measure it's length, while the guage is out I will vacuum the inside of the tank as Maine Sail has recommended. Some fuel lines still need to be connected. (Yes, they are new hoses. I will not skimp on this repair at this stage of the project.) The water seperator has been wiped clean, seal and filter replaced. I have proudly put May 2014 on everything that I worked on in that area. (exhaust hose, pumpout hose, tank, fuel fill hose) I placed some foam blocks along the outboard side and forward edge of the tank to help keep "things" from sliding under the tank. That had already happened, but I was able to retrieve the nut driver.
We are headed for the marina Friday to (hopefully) finish all work and launch on Saturday morning. As a special added attraction our batteries (May/08) needed to be replaced! They will also get the May 2014 label!
Thanks for following my posts and for the suggestions. I'll make a final post with pictures after completion.
I could be wrong but looking at the corrosion on the outside of your tank and the pitting from the outside it seems to suggest that the tank was getting wet from the outside resulting in the corrosion? Check the whole area above and around the tank to see if anything is leaking. I replaced my tank last year and I had some wet plywood in contact and found the source as a leaking bolt on my steering pedestal that was right above the plywood. The pedestal now has a nice butyl tape bedding.
RDS in Perry is who built mine. They built he original and I gave them the part number and they simply built a new one. They sent me drawings to work with re two extra "bungs" for polishing. In fact the bungs were actually tubes..Shipping was really reasonable although I had them build a water tank concurrently. I recommend them highly.
Final Report on Fuel Tankectomy, I hope!
The last fuel tank work was done on Friday 30/May, and the engine was started at 1915. It may take a while to get into "fun" mode after working on the boat for the better part of 6 weeks.
The fuel guage issue was resolved by making two holes in the collar a bit oblong so I could turn the guage and the float mechanism so the float would not "bottom out" in the empty, triangular tank. No big deal.
Water separator cleaned, filter changed, and unit reinstalled. Fuel filter on Yanmar 2GM20F changed. Fuel very carefully put in tank and checked for leaks as we added. We want no fuel smell in the boat.
The "moment of truth" came when we worked on starting the engine. We had disconnected the intake line from the raw water filter and placed it in a 5 gallon bucket of water in the cabin. With all the fuel filter containers filled and Eileen at the switch, I set the pressure relief valves and watched as the engine turned easily with the new batteries. Bleeding the system was necessary, of course, but the fuel pump put fuel through the lines as expected to each bleeding bolt. After several tries fuel was at both injectors and the engine started and ran correctly.
NOTE: It is difficult to do the "Dance of Joy" wearing knee pads, but I made a good effort!
Saturday morning (which was Eileen's birthday) the marina people agreed to launch our boat. Roger and Jarad, the lift operators at Bohemia Vista Marina, did a superb job of lifting and launching MARA. After all the work we had done we were glad they waited patiently while we checked the engine area and the other thru hull fittings. Then we motored around the Bohemia River area near the marina to be sure all was well.
We have MARA in a slip on the newest of the new docks a Bohemia Vista Marina. If you are in the area check out this upgraded marina....new docks, new bathroom/shower building, slip holders' lounge, plus deck area with tables and umbrellas. Most importantly, Karen, the Marina Manager, is making this upper Chesapeake Bay marina a good place to be with the help of her staff, Renee, Roger, and Jarad.
Thank you for following our project activities as posted here on Sailboatowners.com. I value the opportunity to read your comments and suggestions as we worked through this serious project. This is a fantastic resource!
Respectfully, Phil & Eileen
The last fuel tank work was done on Friday 30/May, and the engine was started at 1915. It may take a while to get into "fun" mode after working on the boat for the better part of 6 weeks.
The fuel guage issue was resolved by making two holes in the collar a bit oblong so I could turn the guage and the float mechanism so the float would not "bottom out" in the empty, triangular tank. No big deal.
Water separator cleaned, filter changed, and unit reinstalled. Fuel filter on Yanmar 2GM20F changed. Fuel very carefully put in tank and checked for leaks as we added. We want no fuel smell in the boat.
The "moment of truth" came when we worked on starting the engine. We had disconnected the intake line from the raw water filter and placed it in a 5 gallon bucket of water in the cabin. With all the fuel filter containers filled and Eileen at the switch, I set the pressure relief valves and watched as the engine turned easily with the new batteries. Bleeding the system was necessary, of course, but the fuel pump put fuel through the lines as expected to each bleeding bolt. After several tries fuel was at both injectors and the engine started and ran correctly.
NOTE: It is difficult to do the "Dance of Joy" wearing knee pads, but I made a good effort!
Saturday morning (which was Eileen's birthday) the marina people agreed to launch our boat. Roger and Jarad, the lift operators at Bohemia Vista Marina, did a superb job of lifting and launching MARA. After all the work we had done we were glad they waited patiently while we checked the engine area and the other thru hull fittings. Then we motored around the Bohemia River area near the marina to be sure all was well.
We have MARA in a slip on the newest of the new docks a Bohemia Vista Marina. If you are in the area check out this upgraded marina....new docks, new bathroom/shower building, slip holders' lounge, plus deck area with tables and umbrellas. Most importantly, Karen, the Marina Manager, is making this upper Chesapeake Bay marina a good place to be with the help of her staff, Renee, Roger, and Jarad.
Thank you for following our project activities as posted here on Sailboatowners.com. I value the opportunity to read your comments and suggestions as we worked through this serious project. This is a fantastic resource!
Respectfully, Phil & Eileen
Attachments
Hi Ron,
Yes, all info on the sticker including ABYS certification, thickness, capacity, date of manufacture, name of manufacturer, and even my name. (How great is it to have my own personal fuel tank!?!?)
Yes, all info on the sticker including ABYS certification, thickness, capacity, date of manufacture, name of manufacturer, and even my name. (How great is it to have my own personal fuel tank!?!?)
man you are living Large having your own monogrammed fuel tank :dance:
glad you got the problem solved