I believe that "heaving to" is one hell of a cool maneuver; however, I only applied this move on a smaller vessel (Hunter 25.5 with tiller). Now that I have a Catalina 30 wheel steering, and knowing the procedure is the same (back wind the jib, offset the main and keep the rudder in the opposing direction), are their any special or differing techniques with a wheel? I would appreciate to hear about your experiences on this important maneuver. Regards Bob '88 Cat 30
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Try it before you need it
Bob: I have only heaved to in a wheeled boat but I would imagine there's not much difference in terms of technique. Since you have a different boat, I would suggest that you practice heaving to so you have a good idea of how this particular boat behaves in the heave to position. Experiment with the sailplan to find the combination that lets the boat lie in the best position so that when you really need to heave to you already know what to expect. Cheers
Bob: I have only heaved to in a wheeled boat but I would imagine there's not much difference in terms of technique. Since you have a different boat, I would suggest that you practice heaving to so you have a good idea of how this particular boat behaves in the heave to position. Experiment with the sailplan to find the combination that lets the boat lie in the best position so that when you really need to heave to you already know what to expect. Cheers
Heavign to w/ a wheel
Bob It's the same, but what I've found in a bigger boat is that it is more important to make sure the jib is sheeted in tight, as if on a close haul, rather than a beam reach, when heaving to. The larger boats seem to balance better. Plus you'll have to learn the balance of the wheel, which usually doesn't show you what position the rudder is in, like your tiller. Stu
Bob It's the same, but what I've found in a bigger boat is that it is more important to make sure the jib is sheeted in tight, as if on a close haul, rather than a beam reach, when heaving to. The larger boats seem to balance better. Plus you'll have to learn the balance of the wheel, which usually doesn't show you what position the rudder is in, like your tiller. Stu
No, Jim
Heaving to is tacking without letting the jib over and then keeping the rudder in position to keep the boat's head into the wind. Stops the boat (3/4 to 1.5 knots, sideways motion). Much quieter. Do a Forum archive search on Heave To or read a good sailing book. It's a great and important maneuver, good safety move. In irons means you're head to wind, the boat's stopped, it's noisy, you can't go anywhere, basically you're F-ed. Stu
Heaving to is tacking without letting the jib over and then keeping the rudder in position to keep the boat's head into the wind. Stops the boat (3/4 to 1.5 knots, sideways motion). Much quieter. Do a Forum archive search on Heave To or read a good sailing book. It's a great and important maneuver, good safety move. In irons means you're head to wind, the boat's stopped, it's noisy, you can't go anywhere, basically you're F-ed. Stu
Jim,
definately NOT!...in"irons" happens when your boat is head to wind and neither the main nor jib is drawing. "Hove to" the boat is on a beat but the jib is on the "wrong" side. In irons, the boat is drifting backwards until the boat finally turns "beam to". Hove to, the boat is making very slow progress forward or none at all depending on wind and wave conditions. Heaving to is a great way to stop for any kind of break en route, or ride out a storm without stress.
definately NOT!...in"irons" happens when your boat is head to wind and neither the main nor jib is drawing. "Hove to" the boat is on a beat but the jib is on the "wrong" side. In irons, the boat is drifting backwards until the boat finally turns "beam to". Hove to, the boat is making very slow progress forward or none at all depending on wind and wave conditions. Heaving to is a great way to stop for any kind of break en route, or ride out a storm without stress.
Thanks Stu
Good advice Stu on sheeting in the jib, tight. I will make sure I do that when I practice heaving to. It is a great manuever, in fact on a very windy day on our Hunter we hove to and had lunch aboard, just staying put while everyone else on the water was hanging on! Everyone should or MUST become skilled at this. Great stuff. Thanks Bob
Good advice Stu on sheeting in the jib, tight. I will make sure I do that when I practice heaving to. It is a great manuever, in fact on a very windy day on our Hunter we hove to and had lunch aboard, just staying put while everyone else on the water was hanging on! Everyone should or MUST become skilled at this. Great stuff. Thanks Bob
You're welcome, Bob
One other thing, I forgot to add before, is that just like your tiller boat, you can play with the mainsheet to balance the boat once you've settled down and the rudder is locked hard over. Happy practicing - it sure is fun to bob around calmly when all heck is breaking loose around you. *5 Stu
One other thing, I forgot to add before, is that just like your tiller boat, you can play with the mainsheet to balance the boat once you've settled down and the rudder is locked hard over. Happy practicing - it sure is fun to bob around calmly when all heck is breaking loose around you. *5 Stu
Heave to, or head on?
Hey Alan, I'm just asking, but... Would you really recommend heaving to, to ride out a storm? Wouldn't that put you beam on to the wind and waves? I would think that throwing out a sea anchor/drogue, and putting your head into the waves would be smoother, as well as safer.
Hey Alan, I'm just asking, but... Would you really recommend heaving to, to ride out a storm? Wouldn't that put you beam on to the wind and waves? I would think that throwing out a sea anchor/drogue, and putting your head into the waves would be smoother, as well as safer.
Why heaving-to works in rough conditions
When properly hove-to, the boat should lie somewhere between 50 and 80 degrees off the wind. The actual angle can modified to some degree by sheeting the main in our out and adjusting the helm slightly instead of having it hard over to leeward. When done right, the bow lies about 50 degrees off the wind. The backwinded jib is balanced by the streaming main and the boat just drifts slowly (about a knot or so) to leeward, The drift creates a slick of smooth water to windward that reduces wave height and their effect on the hull. In addition, since the boat is at an angle to the waves, it won't pitch as much as it goes up and over them. A more aggressive technique for heaving-to is to ease the helm slightly rather than crank it hard to leeward. Keeping the jib sheeted hard aback, sheet the mainsail in slightly. As the backwinded jib pushed the bow off the wind, the mainsail fills and starts driving the boat forward. As the boat gains way, the rudder starts to take effect, turning the boat back up into the wind. The mainsail luffs and the boat slows down. The backwinded jib then pushes the bow off to leeward and the process starts again. The boat ends up cutting a series of circular arcs ("scallops") in the water. The difference this time is that the boat is making way to windward (slightly) instead of just drifting. The tradeoff is that the ride is a little more active and not as smooth. One more thing. I was told it's customary to heave-to on starboard tack. Since the boat isn't anchored, technically it's still under way, and being on starboard tack has the right of way. Happy, safe, comfortable sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
When properly hove-to, the boat should lie somewhere between 50 and 80 degrees off the wind. The actual angle can modified to some degree by sheeting the main in our out and adjusting the helm slightly instead of having it hard over to leeward. When done right, the bow lies about 50 degrees off the wind. The backwinded jib is balanced by the streaming main and the boat just drifts slowly (about a knot or so) to leeward, The drift creates a slick of smooth water to windward that reduces wave height and their effect on the hull. In addition, since the boat is at an angle to the waves, it won't pitch as much as it goes up and over them. A more aggressive technique for heaving-to is to ease the helm slightly rather than crank it hard to leeward. Keeping the jib sheeted hard aback, sheet the mainsail in slightly. As the backwinded jib pushed the bow off the wind, the mainsail fills and starts driving the boat forward. As the boat gains way, the rudder starts to take effect, turning the boat back up into the wind. The mainsail luffs and the boat slows down. The backwinded jib then pushes the bow off to leeward and the process starts again. The boat ends up cutting a series of circular arcs ("scallops") in the water. The difference this time is that the boat is making way to windward (slightly) instead of just drifting. The tradeoff is that the ride is a little more active and not as smooth. One more thing. I was told it's customary to heave-to on starboard tack. Since the boat isn't anchored, technically it's still under way, and being on starboard tack has the right of way. Happy, safe, comfortable sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
heave to comments..
I usually think of "in irons" as not being able to complete a tack because the boat's momentum was insufficient to carry it through the "dead zone". On occassion I have purposely put my sloop in irons so I can go forward and change the headsail. This is easily done by letting the tiller go and trimming in the main. Without the rudder steering and no jib to conteract the main the vessel will constantly put itself in irons. The main will have a weathervane effect, the boat will round back up into the wind whenever she starts to fall off. The downside to this is that it is usually a bumpy ride when facing directly into weather. Going down wind and changing the sail in the lee of the main is much smoother, but now the boat is moving so someone on the helm or a reliable autopilot is needed. So... how do we heave to without using the jib? One answer is to push the main out all the way, rig a preventer and set the sheet to hold it steady, then let the windvane effect take over as the vessel sits hull abeam. For example, watch the racing dinghys on the starting line, waiting for the gun. On my C27, heaving to with main only is a bit more difficult because the rear shrouds don't allow the boom to be extended out 90 degrees. Even so, with some determined tweaking I have had some success here. The downside on this technique is that now the main will often rub against the rigging. Geez...can't a sailor get a break? Regarding Jonathon's concerns about lying to head on versus lying to abeam: I think the boat will find its own comfort zone if allowed. Many sailors set the sea anchor with a bridle that allows them to adjust the angle the hull sits to weather. The boat is then set to its most comfortable and secure position. One more comment, regarding backwinding. It is not recommended that you heave to with a genoa, or any headsail over 110%. Besides the rigging quickly doing a lot of damage to the sail, you'll find it easier to balance the boat with the blade, #3, working jib (whatever you want to call it). For those with furlers, roll up the sail enough to at least keep it off the rigging.
I usually think of "in irons" as not being able to complete a tack because the boat's momentum was insufficient to carry it through the "dead zone". On occassion I have purposely put my sloop in irons so I can go forward and change the headsail. This is easily done by letting the tiller go and trimming in the main. Without the rudder steering and no jib to conteract the main the vessel will constantly put itself in irons. The main will have a weathervane effect, the boat will round back up into the wind whenever she starts to fall off. The downside to this is that it is usually a bumpy ride when facing directly into weather. Going down wind and changing the sail in the lee of the main is much smoother, but now the boat is moving so someone on the helm or a reliable autopilot is needed. So... how do we heave to without using the jib? One answer is to push the main out all the way, rig a preventer and set the sheet to hold it steady, then let the windvane effect take over as the vessel sits hull abeam. For example, watch the racing dinghys on the starting line, waiting for the gun. On my C27, heaving to with main only is a bit more difficult because the rear shrouds don't allow the boom to be extended out 90 degrees. Even so, with some determined tweaking I have had some success here. The downside on this technique is that now the main will often rub against the rigging. Geez...can't a sailor get a break? Regarding Jonathon's concerns about lying to head on versus lying to abeam: I think the boat will find its own comfort zone if allowed. Many sailors set the sea anchor with a bridle that allows them to adjust the angle the hull sits to weather. The boat is then set to its most comfortable and secure position. One more comment, regarding backwinding. It is not recommended that you heave to with a genoa, or any headsail over 110%. Besides the rigging quickly doing a lot of damage to the sail, you'll find it easier to balance the boat with the blade, #3, working jib (whatever you want to call it). For those with furlers, roll up the sail enough to at least keep it off the rigging.
Caution
If you have a large overlapping genoa look to your spreader ends to make sure they don't poke a hole in the leech of the sail. The pressure of sail onto the spreaders is considerable. Further caution:- When wanting to get under way again the normal procedure is to slack off the windward genoa sheet to allow the jib/genoa to come across to the lee side and it is at this moment the leech gets ripped. I learned the hard way even though I had protectors on the spreader ends!
If you have a large overlapping genoa look to your spreader ends to make sure they don't poke a hole in the leech of the sail. The pressure of sail onto the spreaders is considerable. Further caution:- When wanting to get under way again the normal procedure is to slack off the windward genoa sheet to allow the jib/genoa to come across to the lee side and it is at this moment the leech gets ripped. I learned the hard way even though I had protectors on the spreader ends!
Starboard Tack
Peter, I am a bit confused as to what tack you are on when heaved to. Did you mean that the recommended tack to heave to on would actually be the port tack so that when heaved to the boat has the wind accross the starboard bow?
Peter, I am a bit confused as to what tack you are on when heaved to. Did you mean that the recommended tack to heave to on would actually be the port tack so that when heaved to the boat has the wind accross the starboard bow?
Starboard Tack
you have it correct. By initiating the 'heave to' action while on a port tack, you will end up 'hove to' on a starboard tack, and thus having the right of way (unless you are the windward boat...) Michael
you have it correct. By initiating the 'heave to' action while on a port tack, you will end up 'hove to' on a starboard tack, and thus having the right of way (unless you are the windward boat...) Michael
Heaving to...
While the procedure is basically the same, every boat I've owned would heave-to in its own unique way. Some were better than others. The sail/wheel/tiller config seems to depend a lot on the type boat/hull/keel you have. I've just started using a 150 furling genoa on my shoal draft Hunter 28.5. I've been experimenting with how much to furl up the genoa to heave-to. The boat seems to lie quietly with about 90 per cent of the headsail backwinded, the main with just a bit of a luff,and the wheel set to offset and balance the headsail. Would like to hear from any others with this model boat as to what works for them.
While the procedure is basically the same, every boat I've owned would heave-to in its own unique way. Some were better than others. The sail/wheel/tiller config seems to depend a lot on the type boat/hull/keel you have. I've just started using a 150 furling genoa on my shoal draft Hunter 28.5. I've been experimenting with how much to furl up the genoa to heave-to. The boat seems to lie quietly with about 90 per cent of the headsail backwinded, the main with just a bit of a luff,and the wheel set to offset and balance the headsail. Would like to hear from any others with this model boat as to what works for them.
Heave to
Warren You're right. Only thing to add is that it's not only the boat but the added issues of the wind and wave conditions. If your jib doesn't get hung up on the spreaders when back winded, that's a great start. If you need to roll it up, that's, as previously mentioned, why. Full main or reefed? In calmer winds you can be more on a beam reach, where if it's windy you'll want the boat to be headed up more so the jib takes it more on the nose. That's where playing with the mainsheet, and the location of the boom, sometimes using the traveler, is vital in finding the "groove" for comfort when hove to. Every situation is somewhat different. Thats' why sailing is so much fun: every time you go out, even if it's in the same neck of the woods, it's different.
For Donalex: another way to "undo" a hove to sail set is to simply gybe around without touching any of the sheets. Of course, best used when it's not too windy. We use the heave to and gybe around sets for practicing man overboard drills. Stu
Warren You're right. Only thing to add is that it's not only the boat but the added issues of the wind and wave conditions. If your jib doesn't get hung up on the spreaders when back winded, that's a great start. If you need to roll it up, that's, as previously mentioned, why. Full main or reefed? In calmer winds you can be more on a beam reach, where if it's windy you'll want the boat to be headed up more so the jib takes it more on the nose. That's where playing with the mainsheet, and the location of the boom, sometimes using the traveler, is vital in finding the "groove" for comfort when hove to. Every situation is somewhat different. Thats' why sailing is so much fun: every time you go out, even if it's in the same neck of the woods, it's different.
For Donalex: another way to "undo" a hove to sail set is to simply gybe around without touching any of the sheets. Of course, best used when it's not too windy. We use the heave to and gybe around sets for practicing man overboard drills. Stu- Status