when I installed a Jabsco service kit on my head. The head works and pumps just fine, but after pumping, the bottom of the bowl girgles and the liquid flows back into the bowl until it reaches some sort of preasure eqilibrium. Seems like I may have put a part in backwards. An ideas? Thanks for your help! Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Maybe it's not the toilet...
When was the last time you checked your holding tank vent? 'Cuz your symptoms sure sound like backpressure from the tank to me!
When was the last time you checked your holding tank vent? 'Cuz your symptoms sure sound like backpressure from the tank to me!
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Wynn Ferrel
Interesting...
I'll check that out on the 4th when I am at the boat. Although, we pumped out today and I didn't notice any problem. With a clogged vent, I would think there would be a problem pumping out. See, I've ebeen reading your advice to other users all along. That's how I knew that. ;-] Wynn
I'll check that out on the 4th when I am at the boat. Although, we pumped out today and I didn't notice any problem. With a clogged vent, I would think there would be a problem pumping out. See, I've ebeen reading your advice to other users all along. That's how I knew that. ;-] Wynn
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Hmmmm....
If you're sure the tank actually emptied, that kinda rules out a clogged vent. In that case, the only thing I can think of to suggest from here is: grab the exploded drawing that came with the kit, open up the pump again, and start checking all the parts against it very carefully to make sure you put 'em in right and that they seated properly. But first, make sure the tank is really empty.
If you're sure the tank actually emptied, that kinda rules out a clogged vent. In that case, the only thing I can think of to suggest from here is: grab the exploded drawing that came with the kit, open up the pump again, and start checking all the parts against it very carefully to make sure you put 'em in right and that they seated properly. But first, make sure the tank is really empty.
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Claude L.-Auger
Rubber gasket with flap valve
might be installed wrong. I installed a Jabsco repair kit in my pump and had the same problem. That flap valve (for lack of the real name) is activated by the dry and wet lever. If installed wrong, you'll be able to pump, but it will still allow water in even though it is positioned on dry. However, you did say the pump works fine but the head gurgles. Did that service kit include a joker valve? If the liquid is not coming from the pump then it has to come back from the tank or hose. And a faulty joker valve will let liquid seep back in. Good luck
might be installed wrong. I installed a Jabsco repair kit in my pump and had the same problem. That flap valve (for lack of the real name) is activated by the dry and wet lever. If installed wrong, you'll be able to pump, but it will still allow water in even though it is positioned on dry. However, you did say the pump works fine but the head gurgles. Did that service kit include a joker valve? If the liquid is not coming from the pump then it has to come back from the tank or hose. And a faulty joker valve will let liquid seep back in. Good luck
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Rob Peace
I had similar symptoms
I rebuilt our Jabsco last year and replaced all the sanitation lines. Shortly thereafter we started having problems with the head gurgling and bubbling. Last night we discovered a dip in the vent line and it was filled with enough water to cause backpressure in the tank and bubbling in the bowl. We didn't suspect the vent line since the pump-out station was strong enough to suck air through the vent line. When we used the toilet pump nothing came out the vent. The solution for our C34 was to shorten the vent line and minimize any sags or dips.
I rebuilt our Jabsco last year and replaced all the sanitation lines. Shortly thereafter we started having problems with the head gurgling and bubbling. Last night we discovered a dip in the vent line and it was filled with enough water to cause backpressure in the tank and bubbling in the bowl. We didn't suspect the vent line since the pump-out station was strong enough to suck air through the vent line. When we used the toilet pump nothing came out the vent. The solution for our C34 was to shorten the vent line and minimize any sags or dips.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
It's called a flapper valve, Claude
And even a brand new joker valve will allow seepage. The slit may be closed tight enough to prevent it for the first few flushes, but it only has to stretch a micromiliter to allow slow seepage. When you see a flood, the time to replace the joker was at least 2 years ago.
And even a brand new joker valve will allow seepage. The slit may be closed tight enough to prevent it for the first few flushes, but it only has to stretch a micromiliter to allow slow seepage. When you see a flood, the time to replace the joker was at least 2 years ago.
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Claude L.-Auger
Thanks Peggy
I guess my description was close enough. I am well aware of seepage even with fairly new joker valves. My solution is to pump more water in to make sure I get all of the black water in the tank. Of course it means pumping out more often and I flush the vent when I do. But on the other hand, I do not have any back pressure problem or nasty odors. Now if I could only find non-ferrous circlips to hold the piston in the pump it would be great. The ones supplied by Jabsco rust and break, needing replacement. Thanks for the info
I guess my description was close enough. I am well aware of seepage even with fairly new joker valves. My solution is to pump more water in to make sure I get all of the black water in the tank. Of course it means pumping out more often and I flush the vent when I do. But on the other hand, I do not have any back pressure problem or nasty odors. Now if I could only find non-ferrous circlips to hold the piston in the pump it would be great. The ones supplied by Jabsco rust and break, needing replacement. Thanks for the info
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
You COULD buy a better quality toilet...
It would cost you about $100 more...but it would last at least 3x as long, without those pesky issues like non-ferrous clamps... Just an idea...
It would cost you about $100 more...but it would last at least 3x as long, without those pesky issues like non-ferrous clamps... Just an idea...
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Claude L.-Auger
There not clamps !
These 2 critters are really called circlips. They are about 1/4" I.D. and about 7/16" O.D. and they slide into a groove on the pump handle shaft. The piston has an o-ring around it sealing against the wall of the cylinder, thus creating the vacuum necessary to pump. Not a big deal. Just have to remove the 6 screws on the cover, pull shaft out, discard old ones and put new ones in. They seem to last about one season up here. And they only sell for about 25 cents. Not too bad, considering it is on the clean water side of the pump !
These 2 critters are really called circlips. They are about 1/4" I.D. and about 7/16" O.D. and they slide into a groove on the pump handle shaft. The piston has an o-ring around it sealing against the wall of the cylinder, thus creating the vacuum necessary to pump. Not a big deal. Just have to remove the 6 screws on the cover, pull shaft out, discard old ones and put new ones in. They seem to last about one season up here. And they only sell for about 25 cents. Not too bad, considering it is on the clean water side of the pump !
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Clayton
Stainless is available.
Claude, You can get stainless steel retaining rings through McMaster-Carr (link below). They cost about $.64 each and you will need to buy a box of 10. Pricy but it beats having one rust away and fail at the wrong (is there any right) time.
Claude, You can get stainless steel retaining rings through McMaster-Carr (link below). They cost about $.64 each and you will need to buy a box of 10. Pricy but it beats having one rust away and fail at the wrong (is there any right) time.
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Wynn Ferrel
"The rest of the story"
It's a bad joker valve. The valve had an opening in it large enough to put a pencil through it. Although, I wouldn't swear it, I thought I replaced it when I installed the rebuild kit a few weeks ago. I wonder if this typically comes with the rebuild kit? In any event, it is obvious that this is the problem. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranqulity
It's a bad joker valve. The valve had an opening in it large enough to put a pencil through it. Although, I wouldn't swear it, I thought I replaced it when I installed the rebuild kit a few weeks ago. I wonder if this typically comes with the rebuild kit? In any event, it is obvious that this is the problem. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranqulity
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Not the whole story
The joker valve can only LET backflow in or block it...it can't cause the backpressure that's creating the backflow. Something else is causing the flush to back up...you need to find it and fix it.
The joker valve can only LET backflow in or block it...it can't cause the backpressure that's creating the backflow. Something else is causing the flush to back up...you need to find it and fix it.
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Wynn Ferrel
Peggy, let's explore that, please
I removed and checked the pump the "pump assembly." The two main things that I focused on were the "top valve gasket" and the "base valve gasket." These two gaskets are made in such a way that it would be almost impossible to instal them incorrectly. The way the holes are punched to match pegs that protrude from the base or matching the molded shape of the unit, I really feel that these are installed properly. Per your earlier suggestion, I checked and the tank was pumped to empty. This problem did not start until I changed out the parts from the "Service Kit" so I think that is a pretty strong indication that the problem lies in the changeover of parts from the service kit. But, following up on your latest idea that something else must be causing the backflow, when waste is pumped upstream into the line going towards the waste tank, what is there that would prevent backflow into the head? Wouldn't that be the joker valve? What else would prevent fluid from backing down the lines? BTW, the fluid that I see in the bowl is not terribly dirty, to be delicate, but, is slightly colored --- which would indicate to me that I am not getting backup from the tank, but from the fluid that has not quite made it to the tank. Anyway, that's my latest observations. Any additonal help would be appreciated. BTW, West Marine is replacing the defective "jocker valve" at no charge and sending it in 2nd day UPS. Cheers to them! Hisses to Jabsco for another cheap part that is taking way too much time to deal with. Thanks, Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
I removed and checked the pump the "pump assembly." The two main things that I focused on were the "top valve gasket" and the "base valve gasket." These two gaskets are made in such a way that it would be almost impossible to instal them incorrectly. The way the holes are punched to match pegs that protrude from the base or matching the molded shape of the unit, I really feel that these are installed properly. Per your earlier suggestion, I checked and the tank was pumped to empty. This problem did not start until I changed out the parts from the "Service Kit" so I think that is a pretty strong indication that the problem lies in the changeover of parts from the service kit. But, following up on your latest idea that something else must be causing the backflow, when waste is pumped upstream into the line going towards the waste tank, what is there that would prevent backflow into the head? Wouldn't that be the joker valve? What else would prevent fluid from backing down the lines? BTW, the fluid that I see in the bowl is not terribly dirty, to be delicate, but, is slightly colored --- which would indicate to me that I am not getting backup from the tank, but from the fluid that has not quite made it to the tank. Anyway, that's my latest observations. Any additonal help would be appreciated. BTW, West Marine is replacing the defective "jocker valve" at no charge and sending it in 2nd day UPS. Cheers to them! Hisses to Jabsco for another cheap part that is taking way too much time to deal with. Thanks, Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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