Has anyone used this material and does it work well? Is it worth the hassel? Any advice? I will be stripping paint and primer off the topsides and all of the bottom paint. The boat is a 25' fiberglass sailboat. I am talking about the blue label, not the red label Marine Strip II. Thanks and Happy New Year. Dan
Peel Away Marine Safety Strip
- Thread starter Dan H
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Depends
I have heard you can get good results if it is warm enough. If you leave it on too long, it turns into a solid mess. I used a sand blaster and walnut shell media to remove multiple layers of bottom paint. Worked very well. Leaves the bottom nicely etched for your first coat of paint. It took me about 4 hours to do a 35ft boat. I used 300lbs of media that I recycled that cost about $250. Blaster rented for $135/day. You need to encapsulate the boat in plastic to contain all the dust and to capture the media to use again. Use a soy based stripper for the topsides. Again temp. is critical. Tim R.
I have heard you can get good results if it is warm enough. If you leave it on too long, it turns into a solid mess. I used a sand blaster and walnut shell media to remove multiple layers of bottom paint. Worked very well. Leaves the bottom nicely etched for your first coat of paint. It took me about 4 hours to do a 35ft boat. I used 300lbs of media that I recycled that cost about $250. Blaster rented for $135/day. You need to encapsulate the boat in plastic to contain all the dust and to capture the media to use again. Use a soy based stripper for the topsides. Again temp. is critical. Tim R.
Follow directions closely
I've used this product on the bottom of my Catalina 30. It is extremely important that you follow the directions closely. The temperature needs to be at least the 70's if it is to do its work in the time described in the directions. Cooler temperatures slow it down a lot, which means it has to stay on the surface longer, and which therefore means that it will dry out. When dried it is quite difficult to remove. The best way to ensure success is to wait until the temperature will be right, and to do only a small area at a time, e.g., 5 ft. X 5 ft. This way the product won't dry out at one end of the boat while you are still working at the other end of the boat.
I've used this product on the bottom of my Catalina 30. It is extremely important that you follow the directions closely. The temperature needs to be at least the 70's if it is to do its work in the time described in the directions. Cooler temperatures slow it down a lot, which means it has to stay on the surface longer, and which therefore means that it will dry out. When dried it is quite difficult to remove. The best way to ensure success is to wait until the temperature will be right, and to do only a small area at a time, e.g., 5 ft. X 5 ft. This way the product won't dry out at one end of the boat while you are still working at the other end of the boat.
Doesn't work
Takes a lot of time and energy (and money) and doesn't work well at all, at least for me.
Takes a lot of time and energy (and money) and doesn't work well at all, at least for me.
Recent issue
of Practical Sailor covered the subject of chemical strippers. Seems that I recall that a number of them worked well, and some a lot better and less expensive than the original "Peel Away."
of Practical Sailor covered the subject of chemical strippers. Seems that I recall that a number of them worked well, and some a lot better and less expensive than the original "Peel Away."
stripping??
Dan why are you stipping everything off? You can scrap the bottom in a couple hours, even faster with help. as for the topsidesa little sanding or scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad will prep it for most primers. where in Michigan?
Dan why are you stipping everything off? You can scrap the bottom in a couple hours, even faster with help. as for the topsidesa little sanding or scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad will prep it for most primers. where in Michigan?
Warren...
...nice article in Good Ole Boat Magazine this month! I saw it, started reading it, looked at the authors name, said, hey, I've seen this name before! Like I said, nice article. Jack Hart SEA-YA!
...nice article in Good Ole Boat Magazine this month! I saw it, started reading it, looked at the authors name, said, hey, I've seen this name before! Like I said, nice article. Jack Hart SEA-YA!
William
Hi William, The topsides paint isn't sticking to the primer. I can remove the topsides paint from the primer with masking tape so there is an adhesion issue there. If I sand and paint, I'm afraid the new paint won't adhered any better thatn the paint on there now. I have no idea what primer the PO used. So I better start over. I figured I'd remove the thin coat of bottom paint while I was at it and just start fresh. Then I know exactly what is on the boat. Michigna on the West side.St Joe.
Hi William, The topsides paint isn't sticking to the primer. I can remove the topsides paint from the primer with masking tape so there is an adhesion issue there. If I sand and paint, I'm afraid the new paint won't adhered any better thatn the paint on there now. I have no idea what primer the PO used. So I better start over. I figured I'd remove the thin coat of bottom paint while I was at it and just start fresh. Then I know exactly what is on the boat. Michigna on the West side.St Joe.
William
Hi William, The topsides paint isn't sticking to the primer. I can remove the topsides paint from the primer with masking tape so there is an adhesion issue there. If I sand and paint, I'm afraid the new paint won't adhered any better thatn the paint on there now. I have no idea what primer the PO used. So I better start over. I figured I'd remove the thin coat of bottom paint while I was at it and just start fresh. Then I know exactly what is on the boat. Michigna on the West side.St Joe.
Hi William, The topsides paint isn't sticking to the primer. I can remove the topsides paint from the primer with masking tape so there is an adhesion issue there. If I sand and paint, I'm afraid the new paint won't adhered any better thatn the paint on there now. I have no idea what primer the PO used. So I better start over. I figured I'd remove the thin coat of bottom paint while I was at it and just start fresh. Then I know exactly what is on the boat. Michigna on the West side.St Joe.
For Tim R. and JackhartJr
1. The "Practical Sailor" article on "Bottom Paint Strippers" is on pages 33-37 of the November 2006 edition, vol 32, No. 11. They can be contacted at 800-424-7887 or email <customer_service@belvoir.com>. 2. Thanks for the comments on my recent article in "Good Old Boat." Feedback always appreciated.
1. The "Practical Sailor" article on "Bottom Paint Strippers" is on pages 33-37 of the November 2006 edition, vol 32, No. 11. They can be contacted at 800-424-7887 or email <customer_service@belvoir.com>. 2. Thanks for the comments on my recent article in "Good Old Boat." Feedback always appreciated.
media blasting
take the boat to your local sand blaster they can take it down to bare glass safely in a couple of hours cheaper and easier than you can and no mess for you i talked to mine and he said he does fiberglass all the time (corvettes) and he uses copper slag when he's done all you need to do is finish sand and paint maybe $300-$400 for a boat that size
take the boat to your local sand blaster they can take it down to bare glass safely in a couple of hours cheaper and easier than you can and no mess for you i talked to mine and he said he does fiberglass all the time (corvettes) and he uses copper slag when he's done all you need to do is finish sand and paint maybe $300-$400 for a boat that size
Used it, would again
Yes, we used it to strip the deck of our 33'er. We were skepticlat first. so we bought a gallon at West Marine and tried it out. We got the poop deck and cockpit done with it. We let it set 24 hours. We still had sanding to do but definitely not as much as we would have. So, we bought another gallon (this time at Boaters World and saved $15.00) and did the rest of the deck. We also had to buy extra paper to cover the whole area. The trick is to get a good thick coat on and cover it witrh the paper. Squeeze out as much of the air as you can. Then relax and wait. Depending on the temperature, you should wait at least 4 hours. As I said, we waited 24. If the material starts to turn white and chalky, start peeling it off as it is drying out. Use a good 5 in 1 painters tool to scrape off the combination paint/remover. Most places, we got right down to the gelcoat. Good luck.
Yes, we used it to strip the deck of our 33'er. We were skepticlat first. so we bought a gallon at West Marine and tried it out. We got the poop deck and cockpit done with it. We let it set 24 hours. We still had sanding to do but definitely not as much as we would have. So, we bought another gallon (this time at Boaters World and saved $15.00) and did the rest of the deck. We also had to buy extra paper to cover the whole area. The trick is to get a good thick coat on and cover it witrh the paper. Squeeze out as much of the air as you can. Then relax and wait. Depending on the temperature, you should wait at least 4 hours. As I said, we waited 24. If the material starts to turn white and chalky, start peeling it off as it is drying out. Use a good 5 in 1 painters tool to scrape off the combination paint/remover. Most places, we got right down to the gelcoat. Good luck.
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