Hello all! I am replacing my cutlass bearing in a few weeks on my 1983 Pearson 303. Just curious if anyone had tips or tricks! I heard there may be a pair of set screws on the stern tube? Just seeing if I could get any pointers before diving in. Thank you!
Pearson 303 Cutlass Bearing Help
- Thread starter SVKraken
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,140
Most likely there are set screws that serve to holster the cutlass bearing in place.
What is your setup?
The shaft on my Cal35C comes out of a stern tube in the stern of the keel. No strut is needed, but some boats require a strut to support the prop. In that case, you could have two cutlass bearings.
On my boat, I removed the prop shaft. I next removed the set screws, one on each side of the stern tube. I then tried to grab the cutlass bearing and pull it out. It was not budging. I had to use a saw blade to cut the bearing. Once cut, I pulled the corners of the bearing, and it slipped right out. Replacment was a press in of the bearing into the stern tube and then set screws to secure the bearing in place.
A picture of your setup will help us provide more detailed support.
What is your setup?
The shaft on my Cal35C comes out of a stern tube in the stern of the keel. No strut is needed, but some boats require a strut to support the prop. In that case, you could have two cutlass bearings.
On my boat, I removed the prop shaft. I next removed the set screws, one on each side of the stern tube. I then tried to grab the cutlass bearing and pull it out. It was not budging. I had to use a saw blade to cut the bearing. Once cut, I pulled the corners of the bearing, and it slipped right out. Replacment was a press in of the bearing into the stern tube and then set screws to secure the bearing in place.
A picture of your setup will help us provide more detailed support.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,140
No problem, it looks like mine, as I suspected.
You should see holes on either side of the shaft log. Mine were covered with a dap of caulk that covered the hex head screws. I picked out the caulk and unscrewed the two screws. I then went at the cutlass bearing, first with needle nose players to pull it out. That did not work. I then took a hack saw blade. The bearing is about 5 inches long. With the shaft out of the boat, I put the saw in one of the bearing grooves and began to saw through the bronze outer rim of the bearing.
Once the saw was through the metal, I grabbed the end and twisted it a little to fold the bearing in on itself. If yours is stubborn, you can cut a second slice near the first to allow the bearing to collapse. It will then be easy to remove.
You should see holes on either side of the shaft log. Mine were covered with a dap of caulk that covered the hex head screws. I picked out the caulk and unscrewed the two screws. I then went at the cutlass bearing, first with needle nose players to pull it out. That did not work. I then took a hack saw blade. The bearing is about 5 inches long. With the shaft out of the boat, I put the saw in one of the bearing grooves and began to saw through the bronze outer rim of the bearing.
Once the saw was through the metal, I grabbed the end and twisted it a little to fold the bearing in on itself. If yours is stubborn, you can cut a second slice near the first to allow the bearing to collapse. It will then be easy to remove.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,140
A marine boat worker was doing the same job on a power boat next to mine. He agreed that some of them can be a bear to resolve. He had a battery-powered saws-all. I commented that using the saws-all looked risky. He said you must be careful and ready to make further repairs if you go too deep. He said it was quicker and that he was a professional. We then both laughed.