Passage 450 Jib Furling/Reefing Line?

[Bowedtoothdoc]

Just curious if anyone has made any modifications for Jib furling that would make it easier to reef the Jib? My boat has what I believe to be the original setup from the factory as there is a cleat attached midway up the stanchion where the line is tied off there is also a cleat just across it on the side of the cockpit coaming that can be used to tie off the line as well although in heavy winds I would be reluctant to use it. Has anyone added a block or cam cleat to lock the furling line in place? Since the boat is a mast head rig even the stock 110 jib has a pretty large surface area.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Sure, skippers have come up with all sorts of ideas, using your concept of a block and a cam cleat. In most cases a block with a cam cleat built onto it are preferable to a block and a cam cleat on deck. We have a small block connected to the base of our stanchion to allow any lead angle for furling and a Johnson cleat on the stanchion to belay the line to. Just look around on some other boats or figure out what will work for you and go for it. Good luck.

 

[bkekst]

I have the same two cleats but never used the cleat on the stanchion. It's about half the size of the cleat on the side of the cockpit and a tad loose - I wouldn't trust it for anything - actually always sort of wondered what it was for. Interesting that you've thought the other way around.

I recently installed a furler for my Staysail, and I'm about to install a matching cleat on the other side of the cockpit. I'm working with a very competent rigger / composite materials engineer, the plan is to install a plate from below. Looks like access is provided by panels in the ceiling. My rigger says there has to be a plate on the cleat already installed otherwise it would rip out. I'll try and verify when he's onboard for the new matching cleat.

I've had no problems or hairline cracks using the cleat on the cockpit, the boat is 13 years old.

 

[rardiH36]

Sure, skippers have come up with all sorts of ideas, using your concept of a block and a cam cleat. In most cases a block with a cam cleat built onto it are preferable to a block and a cam cleat on deck. We have a small block connected to the base of our stanchion to allow any lead angle for furling and a Johnson cleat on the stanchion to belay the line to. Just look around on some other boats or figure out what will work for you and go for it. Good luck.

.... another variation to the block approach is to use a hexa-ratchet type of block. If conditions happen to be a bit gnarly when needing to furl or reef-furl the sail, the potential for the furling line to run back out again is greatly reduced. The ratchet block does needs to be mounted in a position so that the angle change of the line (in respect of your normal pulling position) is in the 90 degree range or more.

 

[Bowedtoothdoc]

Thanks for the replies,
Bkekst,
I think the smaller cleat on the stanchion is just for storing the line when not in use and the larger cleat on the cockpit coaming is for tying in a reef. As stated above by rardi I am considering a solution that would eliminate the potential for the furling line to run back out, I guess you can do that on the larger cleat if very careful.
As to your staysail configuration I would be very interested in seeing your setup as my boat did not come with an inner forestay. If you have any chance to take pictures I would be interested in seeing them. Also would you be interested in selling any of the hardware that you will no longer be using with your new setup?
Thanks,
BT

 

[bkekst]

BT,

Unfortunately I did not save the old equipement as I have very limited storage space (I live aboard).

By the way another advantage of your idea with cleating off at the base of the stanchion is that you eliminate a trip hazard. The line does go right across the footpath about 12" off the deck.

I have some pictures of the forestay with the old and new rigging - let me assemble them and I can post.

Brad