Passage 42 in-mast furling

[Wanderwind]

Can someone point me in the direction of instructions on how to use the Passage 42 in-mast furling system? (Z-SPARS)

We are considering purchase of one and while on sea-trial the sail became completely jammed in the mast. (Likely the result of a bad furling job by the previous user) We got it back to the dock and, with a rigger up the mast, we were able to get it out, an inch at a time. It took almost 2 hours because it was seriously jammed up in there.

Once it was out, every time we tried to unfurl it, the furling line would double-over on the spindle causing it to jam. What's the proper technique for preventing this so the line lays neatly in a single layer?

Also, it seems important to have the boom-vang and topping lift set correctly for a good furl/unfurl. Are there any guidelines for this?
Any common modifications to make this easier to use? This boat had it's running rigging replaced and it seems like the lines are all in different places than when original from Hunter. I'm just trying to figure out if it would make sense to put them back where they were originally or if there was some reason they rearranged everything.

Thank you!

 

[shemandr]

I really wish you the best of luck but the boat failed the sea trial by any standard. What makes you optimistic that things will get better? I will speculate that the reason everything is moved around is the the PU (I like that better than PO) couldn't make it work either. When I had mine everything was about the furler. The halyard tension, the angle of the boom, the battens, the angle of the outhaul etc. Some people love 'em. I had a lot of problems particularly with the jamming issue. Lots written on this site about it. I'm sorry to say this but I think you should move on to another boat.

 

[KD3PC]

in mast is a beast of it's own, and either works or does not. This one apparently does not. It could be as simple as a bent attachment between the furler and the sail or the way a line is laid in to and out of the furler drum. YOu didn't say what year this was...but some of the early 1990's were really one offs.

A good rigger and sail loft should be able to dial this in, for a price...or replace the whole shooting match with newer gear.

I am with she though, they are not my cup of tea, as when they stick or break...you are up the proverbial creek with a sail somewhat in or somewhat out....not safe for me to trial.

I would make an offer assuming that the mast would be replaced/reworked, IF you really like the rest of the boat.

 

[Finally Free]

Once it was out, every time we tried to unfurl it, the furling line would double-over on the spindle causing it to jam. What's the proper technique for preventing this so the line lays neatly in a single layer?

Any chance you took any pictures of this area? Never had that problem on ours before.

 

[Wanderwind]

Unfortunately, I did not get a picture. Another rigger took a look at it this morning and said basically the furling line is disintegrating and the friction is likely what's causing it to not lay right on the drum. Also the vang is busted and needs rebuilding so the boom is being held too high.

He also found issues with the headsail furler and recommended replacing it.

This is a 1994 model. Frankly, it's in better shape than the other 3 I've looked at but it's still a 22 year old boat and hasn't been used much in the last 10 years.

I'll need to think about this. Survey found other problems. Nothing really huge, but lots of little crap like hoses, belts, engine mounts, etc.

 

[Puesta del sol]

What price are they asking? How up to date are electronics. I have a full batten main on mine and aside from having to climb mast (unless you are 6'2" or taller) it works great - I too and not a fan of roller in mast. I have heard there maybe a few of these coming up for sale on the Chesapeake bay. Offer a price that allows you to fix and enjoy it or keep looking. I was hesitant to buy a center cockpit but my wife and kids loved the deck layout. I have not been sorry since the day I purchased. Mine was in the 95+k range in 2011 and I had to do little initial work as it was clean and north sails sails were more in 2010. I spend probably 2k a year in general maintenance - bottom and a variety of minor things up top

 

[JamesG161]

My Zpars worked in the sea trails and it seemed real easy at first. We, like you, had no previous furling experience.
In, retrospect, I should have mastered the concept before guessing my way through it.
We love it and can furl and unfurl in less then 5 minutes each way. The foot of our sail is ≈17.5' so we must cranking that distance using a wench at about 6" of outhaul line per revolution.

We found a good sail maker knew more about the mechanism than a rigger.
_________
It sounds like a typical "leech twist", which we make sure DOESN'T happen on furling the main.
_______
This link is where many have inputed to help others.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...e-of-crap-furling-system.175976/#post-1255964
Jim...

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

When in-mast curlers work properly, they are great. However, they can be temperamental especially when not done perfectly. Unfortunately, for every person who loves their's, there are many more who have had problems.
Personally, I'd rather suffer the effort to furl a traditional sail than risk a problem which could be dangerous. Your choice.

 

[tadd5181]

I have a 2000 Passage 420. I have owned it since it was 1 year old. I had many in-mast furling problems. Once had the original main re-fitted. Then eventually gave up and got a new main about 2 years ago now, and since then no problems. The main eventually can get more concave that it should. But the new sail works like a charm now.

 

[Wanderwind]

I have a 2000 Passage 420.

I believe the 420 has a different (more modern) furling system than the Passage 42.

You have the kind with a continuous loop and the gear on the mast that you can stick a winch handle in, correct?

 

[Finally Free]

Just remembered. We did have issues right after purchasing the boat. The main had vertical battens that we had a sail maker remove and then had no problems.

 

[artboas]

Can someone point me in the direction of instructions on how to use the Passage 42 in-mast furling system? (Z-SPARS)

We are considering purchase of one and while on sea-trial the sail became completely jammed in the mast. (Likely the result of a bad furling job by the previous user) We got it back to the dock and, with a rigger up the mast, we were able to get it out, an inch at a time. It took almost 2 hours because it was seriously jammed up in there.

Once it was out, every time we tried to unfurl it, the furling line would double-over on the spindle causing it to jam. What's the proper technique for preventing this so the line lays neatly in a single layer?

Also, it seems important to have the boom-vang and topping lift set correctly for a good furl/unfurl. Are there any guidelines for this?
Any common modifications to make this easier to use? This boat had it's running rigging replaced and it seems like the lines are all in different places than when original from Hunter. I'm just trying to figure out if it would make sense to put them back where they were originally or if there was some reason they rearranged everything.

Thank you!

I had a 40.5 for many years with the z-soar in mast furling., Our 40.5 was the first one that hunter fitted with in-mast furling.
In all the years I had the boat, I never had 1 problem with it.
But, I always used it properly, and never an abused it.
I would always unfurl into wind, and take up all the out haul tension before bearing off.
I always undid the leech line before furling
Every season I would inspect & clean the bearings.
I NEVER used a winch on the furl line until I was sure it could pull by hand.
Every season I had the sail inspected by the sail maker, and had all tiny blemishes repaired.
All of these things added up to a reliable functioning system.
On my 49 I have the Selden in-mast. Frankly, it's better than the z-spar, but it's also more expensive.
So, treat the furlers an all the components well, and never ever force anything.