Partial Hose Replacement?

[Ed Sabornie]

Dear Peggy,Here's a question that I hope you can answer, and I hope my description below is adequate enough for you to comprehend. If you have a hose (specifically, the 1.5 in. sanitation hose from the holding tank to the deck pumpout plate) that is permeated, is it possible to replace a part of it and splice/replace with the Odorsafe hose without replacing the entire hose? Here's my dilemma: The bottom 1/3 of the hose from the tank to the deck pumpout plate holds waste because of the way it is attached to my holding tank. To get to the top of that hose where it attaches to the deck pumpout plate is going to be VERY, VERY difficult because of space constraints on my '97 Hunter 280 (and the boat dealer said it would take 1 day alone to replace that hose!!!). Splicing that hose above where the waste collects, however, would not be hard to do. What I would then do is use the proper barbed hose connector with clamps and have the Odorsafe hose on the bottom 1/3 and allow the Odorsafe hose to collect the waste. I guess my real question is if the entire hose needs to be replaced when it is permeated, or can you just replace part of it that constantly has waste accumulating in it? Would doing so (splicing) in the manner I described above be as effective as replacing the entire hose? It sure would make my job easier if I could replace only part of the hose rather than the whole thing, but I want to eliminate that nasty smell.Many thanks for your expert insight on this matter--you're the best!

 

[Peggie Hall/Head Mistress]

Replace the entire hose

It can be spliced, but you'll regret it. Permeation "migrates"...the entire hose has begun to permeate. You'll just end up doing it twice.8 hours for the dealer to replace one hose? I find that hard to believe no matter how difficult the access to the deck fitting. Get quotes from other sources...or better yet, do it yourself. And use SeaLand OdorSafe hose.

 

[Jose Venegas]

Ed, I would use aluminum foil

to cover the accesible part of the tube that, as you mention, is the likely one permeating the stench. A cheap solution that has worked for me. See my posts today

 

[Steve Dion]

What do you have to loose?

Ed:I'd have to agree with Jose. If you don't want to change out the entire hose, why not try out the alum. tape. If it does not work you still only need to replace the entire hose.PS: I sure don't like the idea of splicing two pieces of hose together. To me this is a maintenance nightmare just waiting to happen.PSS: I doubt that replacing the hose on your boat is much more difficult that on many others. Every one of these is a tough job. If I were you, I'd use Joses stop gap measure and replace the hose when you have the boat down in the low season.

 

[David]

Splice

Why would anyone even consider a hose splice? I would suggest following Peggie's advice, she is the expert.

 

[Peggie Hall/Head Mistress]

Steve, what makes a splice any different from

breaking a hose to insert a tee or a y-valve, vented loop, or an inline radius? Why would you have a problem with it? Otoh, you suggest he use metal tape--something no one but Jose has ever even heard of doing before. He may be onto something, but I doubt it...surely someone else would have thought of it by now if there weren't good reasons not to...Lord knows, people have tried everything else! One thing that comes to mind is the possibility of setting up galvanic corrosion or electrolysis. I'll look into it...till I have some answers, I strongly recommend against ANYone else wrapping a hose in aluminum tape. If he's gonna wrap it in anything, use Saran Wrap...which is a proven odor barrier and cannot cause any damage.