Parallel circuit

[Rjm st.petersburg]

I have a 2005 Hunter 41DS. All of a sudden my parallel light comes on even when I do not have it switched in. I replaced the parallel circuit breaker, changed all wires that looked heated up or old. Tested all of the old wires I pulled out, all tested good. I have continuity between L1 and ground, but no continuity between L2 and ground. L2 only powers the AC units and pump. Even when the AC units and pump is off, so no load on L2 , the parallel light is on with no loads.
What could cause the parallel light to come on?

 

[jssailem]

RJM
This link might help you understand the light.
This has been an issue for Hunter owners. Replacement of the solenoid is one option. A short or crossed wire has been mentioned as a cause Since you have been making changes to your wiring, it would be worth your time to inspect the work.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/solenoid-switch-on-the-battery-switch-panel-what-activates-it.1249935684/

 

[Rjm st.petersburg]

Thank you for your reply. The wires that were changed out were done 1 at a time to prevent getting any of them crossed. The parallel light came on prior to any wire changes. The light coming on is what prompted the inspection. We changed the ones that looked bad, mainly they were discolored from mildew and age. We didn't see any signs of over heating, no blisters, dried up insolation or melting. We checked each wire as they were removed and all tested good. We went back and rechecked our work, all seems good and everything works as it should except the parallel light is on when the switch is off.
I am having a problem finding the ACR relay. It's not behind the battery switches, in the battery box, behind the electric panel, under the Navigation floor, or the panel under the Navigation station bulkhead. Where else would you suggest I look?

 

[ice breaker]

I have a 2004 41AC. There is only a solenoid used as the ACR, unless yours has been changed. It is located on the 12 breaker and batery disconnect panel under the nav table seat. Check out page 11 and 12 of this document.

 

[artboas]

I have a 2005 Hunter 41DS. All of a sudden my parallel light comes on even when I do not have it switched in. I replaced the parallel circuit breaker, changed all wires that looked heated up or old. Tested all of the old wires I pulled out, all tested good. I have continuity between L1 and ground, but no continuity between L2 and ground. L2 only powers the AC units and pump. Even when the AC units and pump is off, so no load on L2 , the parallel light is on with no loads.
What could cause the parallel light to come on?

Hi there
You are talking about 2 different on board systems
The ACR, or parallel solenoid are for the DC systems to connect the house batteries to the Start. This permits you to charge the Start battery when the parallel mode is selected.
The other “parallel circuit” joins the AC inputs on the 2 30Amp inlets together.
The purpose of this is to have both AC legs joined together,

With this in mind, you might want to go back to your trouble shooting.

If you have the Blue Seas ACR installed, it’s possible that it is defective. You should look at your battery switch panel, and see if you have the large circular solenoid. (Which I suspect you do)
With this info in mind, perhaps you might be able to trouble shoot this.
Be very careful of the AC lines. Even if you have the shore unplugged, the inverter still outputs 120 volts, which is lethal. Be cautious

 

[Rjm st.petersburg]

I do realize I am talking about 2 different systems. It was suggested that the ACR relay could be faulty. I didn't quite see how that would be the cause, but I'm open for suggestions. I happened to find a replacement for the solenoid at the auto parts store close by. That wasn't the solution.
My parallel light is on, even when the switch is off. One side of the switch is for Line 1 and the other is for line 2. The LED parallel light was wired to the Line 2 side of the switch. Any time there was power to line 2 the light would come on, even though the switch is off. I don't see a way to have the LED light operating with the switch properly.

 

[jssailem]

Rather than guess, it is time to start testing. Break out the DVM and probes.

You start with the assumption: "The LED parallel light was wired to the Line 2 side of the switch." With the power off and the light on, test the positive lead on the line 2 side of the switch. Does the voltmeter tell you there is Power there with the switch off?

Check the other side of the switch with the power off. Is there power leaking across the switch?

Note how the LEDs are wired. They often are on one side of the switch with a separate power wire. When the switch is open no power to the LED (separate from the load). When closed, the LED lights up as the LED circuit is now complete. This may be your switch or another wire that is closing the LED circuit.

 

[marcham]

Hi, can you post a photo of the light? It would help clarify the situation, as there's mention of DC and AC systems above, but I suspect you have AC issues (L1 / L2 ) ? Do you have 2x 120V 30A or 1x 240V 50A power inlet?

Which wires were heated up? Do you have photos?

Heated up wires should NEVER be replaced, until the source of the overheating was identified and rectified. (AC power should be disabled until the fault is found).

What do you mean by discolored by mildew? Some mold stains doesn't make wire or sheath bad in itself. Diagnosis is always strongly advised before changing anything...

AC shore power faults are a significant cause of boat fires (usually starting at the boat side connection).... not really a job for someone new to electrical. If you don't have significant experience with marine AC electrical and aren't knowledgeable of boat wiring standards, this is a job for a pro.

Troubleshooting AC electrical faults can be VERY dangerous. Shore power cord should be disconnected and brought onboard and the house battery disconnected (if you have an inverter) BEFORE DOING ANYTHING... 99% of electrical problems can be identified with no power.

 

[Rjm st.petersburg]

Unfortunately I am away from the boat this weekend. I have a ABYC electrician working on it. The wires changed out were discolored, however after close examination they don't show the signs of over heating. There were no blisters, discolored lugs, melted insolation, or melted shrink wrap. After wiping them clean and testing them they looked good and OHM'd good. They were changed regardless. What leads us to think is was possibly mildew, they all happened to be the same size and color. The boat did sit on the hard for a year about 5 years ago. I really feel it could be the result the manufacturing process of the wire 20 years ago.
I have a new Marinco 50A splitter into 2 30A outlets that feed 2 Smart Plug shore power cords. No evidence of over heating on any of the cords. The City Marina had a total replacement of all slip shore power pedestals due to the Hurricanes, that was completed about 18 months ago.
All work was done with the shore power unplugged, incoming breakers off, main switch on the battery panel off, main switches on breaker panel off, batteries were totally disconnected off of their posts and were covered by a rubber insolation blanket (I am a Technician for our Electric Utility).
It was suggested that it would be a bad wire or a bad ACR Solenoid Relay. Out of an abundance caution I opted to test each wire, replace all discolored wire as well as test them. Follow the schematic to trace out the circuit. I also installed a new parallel breaker purchased from this sites store, test it prior to installing it and test the one removed, both tested good.
An Auto Parts store close by happen to have 2 of the Solenoids and let me have both for the price of one. Scored a win there. They are the exact same model and manufacturer as what was in place and listed in the Schematic.
The light in question is the teeny tiny red LED light that shows when Line 2 is in Parallel. Obviously I am getting a bit overwhelmed here, and apologize for the length and tone of this post.
Let's take a step back and start with this question or concern. Boat is on Shore Power, Line 1 is in the on position, Line 2 is in the on position. Now we are prevented for having Line 2 and the Parallel breaker on at the same time via the sliding post on the breaker panel. So why is the teeny tiny red LED light on for the parallel breaker? It is wired to the load side of the parallel breaker, the breaker is in the off position and there is voltage to the load side because Line 2 breaker is energized, on and feeding the circuit. I remember it was off until I turned off Line 2 breaker off, slid the preventer post up and then turned on the parallel light. Is it normal to have that parallel LED light on anytime there is voltage supplied to Line 2?

 

[marcham]

How is the tiny red light wired on your panel? What's it's neutral and hot source?

Here's an example of the wiring for the parallel light (circled in red), on a panel that has 2 x 120V 30A AC inputs or can parallel bus B to bus A.

Bus A can be powered from 120V 30A shore power or generator.

You can also follow the hot wire path for the BUSS B input or the parallel input (bus b on the left, bus A on the right) ....for bus B only one of the inputs can be selected:
-120V AC external input OR
-parallel

not both at the same time).

 

[Rjm st.petersburg]

This is what we are planning to do. Installing the diode should make the Parallel light work like every other light on the panel. Light On will mean circuit activated. It will not mean Available and be the odd ball on the panel.

 

[marcham]

Here's a better depiction of how the back of the panel should be wired:

https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/9866.pdf

I'm curious, was your panel's Bus B parallel light always behaving strangely or was this a recent change?