In the DIY mag there was an articale on painting the hull and deck with spray paint. Anyone actually try that? An intruiging idea if it works...well.
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Depends
I saw the article - depending on the boat - you may actually devalue the vessel. When it comes to painting - prepping is 85% of the work...it would then juts make sense to go with Awlgrip (roll on application or spray) to ensure the job is done right and will last for many years. Rob
I saw the article - depending on the boat - you may actually devalue the vessel. When it comes to painting - prepping is 85% of the work...it would then juts make sense to go with Awlgrip (roll on application or spray) to ensure the job is done right and will last for many years. Rob
I have a boat done this way
My hunter 25 was spray painted this way. It has held up just fine but chalks and generally looks poor. It was one reason I could purchase at a good price. I agree it devalues the boat. I plan on an awlgrip job at a future date. Glad only the hull was done this way.
My hunter 25 was spray painted this way. It has held up just fine but chalks and generally looks poor. It was one reason I could purchase at a good price. I agree it devalues the boat. I plan on an awlgrip job at a future date. Glad only the hull was done this way.
I wouldn't do it
Currently I'm right in the middle of painting my deck and cabin area (everything above the rub rail). The preparation required to get to the point where you put the actual top coat of paint on the boat is significant. Here is what I was told to do and/or have gleaned from the product manuals and/or have already completed. 1. Pressure wash the entire deck area. DONE (2 hours) 2. Remove crappy silicone job at rub rail and around windows. DONE (2 hours) 3. Remove all wood hand holds, hatch handles and companionway door surrounds. DONE(2 hours) 4. Repair and Sand the crappy repair jobs done in a half dozen areas DONE(2 hours) 5. Scuff-sand the entire deck surface to prepare for primer. DONE(3 hours) Remove or tape all deck hardware (2 hours) 6. Mix two stage primer and apply within the 90 minute "pot life" of the product. Done in two seperate batches. DONE (4 hours) 7. Dry and Cure time DONE (Two Days). 8. Sand with 300 grit to remove brush and roller edge marks, drips and misc bits (like bugs). 33% DONE More work to come tonight (4 hours) 9. Clean with pressure washer. (not to close) (1 hour) 10. Dry for (2 or 3 hours) 11. Mix one half of total paint supply and apply first coat with brush and roller. (2 hours) 12. Dry and Cure (24 hours) While you wait: Pressure wash/strip and sand all wood pieces. DONE (1 hour) Dry (overnight) Apply exterior finish in three seperate coats. DONE (total work time 2 hours) 13. Paint non-skid areas with interlocking second coat and apply non-skid material (2 hours) 14. Dry and Cure (24 hours) 15. Check for roller edge, sag and drip lines - sand with 300 grit (1 hour) 16. Apply second coat of interlocked top coat paint over all surface (including the non-skid area) (2 hours) 17. Dry and Cure (36 hours) 18. Check for roller overlap and drip lines, see above for sanding instructions ONLY if required, then move to 3M rubbing compound for high gloss finish - only if required/desired. (3 hours) 19. Let cure for 7 days before heavy traffic, salt water exposure, launch, etc. 20. Enjoy a quality paint job for about $400. and 30+ hours of your time, that will last 5 to seven years (depending on winter storage practices) The physical PAINTING only involves about 3 or four hours of work. I don't know if you really save anything by using a spray can. You still have to do all the preparation. Spray would limit me to very early morning hours and only on wind-less, low humidity days. I would likely end up painting half the neighbourhood. For the Do It Yourself backyard boatyard type of paint job, I think spray paint is best left to the pros. Just my opinion. Richard
Currently I'm right in the middle of painting my deck and cabin area (everything above the rub rail). The preparation required to get to the point where you put the actual top coat of paint on the boat is significant. Here is what I was told to do and/or have gleaned from the product manuals and/or have already completed. 1. Pressure wash the entire deck area. DONE (2 hours) 2. Remove crappy silicone job at rub rail and around windows. DONE (2 hours) 3. Remove all wood hand holds, hatch handles and companionway door surrounds. DONE(2 hours) 4. Repair and Sand the crappy repair jobs done in a half dozen areas DONE(2 hours) 5. Scuff-sand the entire deck surface to prepare for primer. DONE(3 hours) Remove or tape all deck hardware (2 hours) 6. Mix two stage primer and apply within the 90 minute "pot life" of the product. Done in two seperate batches. DONE (4 hours) 7. Dry and Cure time DONE (Two Days). 8. Sand with 300 grit to remove brush and roller edge marks, drips and misc bits (like bugs). 33% DONE More work to come tonight (4 hours) 9. Clean with pressure washer. (not to close) (1 hour) 10. Dry for (2 or 3 hours) 11. Mix one half of total paint supply and apply first coat with brush and roller. (2 hours) 12. Dry and Cure (24 hours) While you wait: Pressure wash/strip and sand all wood pieces. DONE (1 hour) Dry (overnight) Apply exterior finish in three seperate coats. DONE (total work time 2 hours) 13. Paint non-skid areas with interlocking second coat and apply non-skid material (2 hours) 14. Dry and Cure (24 hours) 15. Check for roller edge, sag and drip lines - sand with 300 grit (1 hour) 16. Apply second coat of interlocked top coat paint over all surface (including the non-skid area) (2 hours) 17. Dry and Cure (36 hours) 18. Check for roller overlap and drip lines, see above for sanding instructions ONLY if required, then move to 3M rubbing compound for high gloss finish - only if required/desired. (3 hours) 19. Let cure for 7 days before heavy traffic, salt water exposure, launch, etc. 20. Enjoy a quality paint job for about $400. and 30+ hours of your time, that will last 5 to seven years (depending on winter storage practices) The physical PAINTING only involves about 3 or four hours of work. I don't know if you really save anything by using a spray can. You still have to do all the preparation. Spray would limit me to very early morning hours and only on wind-less, low humidity days. I would likely end up painting half the neighbourhood. For the Do It Yourself backyard boatyard type of paint job, I think spray paint is best left to the pros. Just my opinion. Richard
Dont do it
Magazine articles are usually reprinted exactly as they get to the mag. Normally they are NOT edited for TECHNICAL CORRECTNESS. They are just repeating the way the author did it. Lets consider.....aerosol paint has an awful lot of thinner in it in order for it to not clog the nozzle. That means that the paint will run very easily and building up a decent coat will be next to impossible. Not to mention, that it could turn out to be a lot more expensive than you plan. Remember the thinner thing?, Well, it evaporates into the atmosphere and so there is not much solids left on your boat. This means more cans of paint. Also the low and uneven pressure ( stop and shake often) will make it difficult to lay down a nice even wet coat. I can go on and on.....my advice is DONT DO IT. Now, lets hear it from all those that have done it and have a show winning finish.
Magazine articles are usually reprinted exactly as they get to the mag. Normally they are NOT edited for TECHNICAL CORRECTNESS. They are just repeating the way the author did it. Lets consider.....aerosol paint has an awful lot of thinner in it in order for it to not clog the nozzle. That means that the paint will run very easily and building up a decent coat will be next to impossible. Not to mention, that it could turn out to be a lot more expensive than you plan. Remember the thinner thing?, Well, it evaporates into the atmosphere and so there is not much solids left on your boat. This means more cans of paint. Also the low and uneven pressure ( stop and shake often) will make it difficult to lay down a nice even wet coat. I can go on and on.....my advice is DONT DO IT. Now, lets hear it from all those that have done it and have a show winning finish.
Actually I
have painted my deck, but not the hull, with the new FUSION paint,in spray cans, by Krilon i believe! it fuses to plastic and I have had wonderful results. Now I have only been in fresh water, so havent as yet tried it in salt, but want to soon! it has been on for the better part of 3 yrs. Where my deck is white, i have had to touch it up at the beginning of the season, due to dirt showing on the white from walking on it. I love the white, but it is a pain to keep clean!
have painted my deck, but not the hull, with the new FUSION paint,in spray cans, by Krilon i believe! it fuses to plastic and I have had wonderful results. Now I have only been in fresh water, so havent as yet tried it in salt, but want to soon! it has been on for the better part of 3 yrs. Where my deck is white, i have had to touch it up at the beginning of the season, due to dirt showing on the white from walking on it. I love the white, but it is a pain to keep clean!
I think it is a crazy idea but
I read an article where someone used epoxy appliance paint to spray paint their boat. I used epoxy appliance paint to spray a range hood for my wife and it looked really nice. It was easy to use and is hard as nails. You can find an old appliance anywhere to practice on. Paint it and leave it outside in the back yard for a few months and see what you think.
I read an article where someone used epoxy appliance paint to spray paint their boat. I used epoxy appliance paint to spray a range hood for my wife and it looked really nice. It was easy to use and is hard as nails. You can find an old appliance anywhere to practice on. Paint it and leave it outside in the back yard for a few months and see what you think.
antiskid
Just wondering how the roller works on area of nonslip. My boat has a pattern of small squares. Will the rooler cause them to just fill with paint or will it draw the excess out? Would one use a foam or a fine or couse roller? Dave
Just wondering how the roller works on area of nonslip. My boat has a pattern of small squares. Will the rooler cause them to just fill with paint or will it draw the excess out? Would one use a foam or a fine or couse roller? Dave
Rednecks been doing that for years!!!
but the problem is that the paint in those cans is not appropiate and the propellant pressure is not consistent. After a few sails of being painted it creates a camouflage look. No problem there either. I've seen a couple of monochrome boats from topside to the waterline. Seriously, if the hull or topside is preped and primed correctly and a good polyutherane enamel is used with a quality compressed air spray gun good results can be obtained. Now the kicker is most of us are more proficient using a paint roller than a spray gun. It is not so much the method used but the ability of the painter. Years ago I had a 1956 T-Bird painted with gray primer.
but the problem is that the paint in those cans is not appropiate and the propellant pressure is not consistent. After a few sails of being painted it creates a camouflage look. No problem there either. I've seen a couple of monochrome boats from topside to the waterline. Seriously, if the hull or topside is preped and primed correctly and a good polyutherane enamel is used with a quality compressed air spray gun good results can be obtained. Now the kicker is most of us are more proficient using a paint roller than a spray gun. It is not so much the method used but the ability of the painter. Years ago I had a 1956 T-Bird painted with gray primer.
Non-Skid little squares
GR8 ... so far I have only got the primer on the non-skid, but it does not seem to have fille the "valleys" too significantly. Having said that, this coming long weekend (in Canada anyway) I'll complete the top-coats and let you know. Your question has made me consider thinning the firt final coat before I sprinkle on the non-skid material so as to not add layer upon layer of thick top coat (Thanks for that). Then adding another thinned layer of top coat to seal in the non-skid material before "candy coating" the entire deck with the cross-linked final (non-thinned) top coat. Richard
GR8 ... so far I have only got the primer on the non-skid, but it does not seem to have fille the "valleys" too significantly. Having said that, this coming long weekend (in Canada anyway) I'll complete the top-coats and let you know. Your question has made me consider thinning the firt final coat before I sprinkle on the non-skid material so as to not add layer upon layer of thick top coat (Thanks for that). Then adding another thinned layer of top coat to seal in the non-skid material before "candy coating" the entire deck with the cross-linked final (non-thinned) top coat. Richard
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