Painting the Shaft

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Bob

Well the boat finally goes in the water next week, well if the marina is on schedule. Just finished cleaning and shining up the shaft and prop and installing new zincs. The question is do I paint the shaft and/or prop or not. In years past I have and haven't for one reason or another. As I walked around the yard this past weekend it seems to be about 50/50. Just wondering what others' thoughts might be on the subject. Bob Keller s/v Kathryn h356 Stamford, CT
 
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Warren

I've had about the same experience that you have with painting, or not painting the prop and shaft. I'm in a huge marina (over 1,000 boats on land, about 650 wet slips). I also noted about half painted, half not painted. The yard manager routinely paints the shaft and prop if you elect to have the yard paint your bottom. Yet he states that he doubts it does much good. In my area of the Chesapeake Bay, the water is conducive to hard growth and most of my friends who have had their shafts/props painted report that after a few months in the water, all the protection has worn off and they have hard growth. Seems to be a toss up. FYI, Im going with an unpainted shaft/prop this year.
 
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Jim A

I don't

If your painting it with bottom paint the copper could react with the steel.
 
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Pete Dodenhoff

Paint the shaft - affirmative

My experience, FWIW. I've always gone with painting the prop shaft, but not in the spots(s) where the sacrificial zinc(s) are located. (By blocking the direct contact between zinc and shaft with a layer of paint, you defeat the purpose of the zinc.) If the shaft is already fully painted, sand away the paint from the spot where the zinc will go. (And don't paint the zinc itself.) This approach works for me. The last thing I'd want (well, maybe one of the last things) is a shaft that won't turn properly due to fouling. Pete "EmmyLou" (O'Day 272LE) -- for sale Little Silver, NJ
 
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John Tesoriero

Two methods

I have found two methods that have worked for me in the coastal waters of New Jersey. I had some success with painting a properly cleaned shaft and prop with two coats of Interlux Barrier Coat followed by a good coat of your favorite bottom paint. The barrier coat isolates the metal shaft from the copper in the bottom paint, keeping it active. The paint eventually wears off the prop but you are protected for much of the season. Don't paint under or over the zincs. I also had good success with the clear spray outdrive antifouling paint but they seem to have taken that off the market. Some captains have noted that removing the zincs will keep your shaft clean but you may not have much of either shaft or prop after a season or two.
 
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Dale I

Painted my shaft.

First primed with the Interlux 2-part etch/primer system...and held back an 1" from the shaft zinc as per instructions. The only fouling on the bottom on the first dive after 10-months were the gap spaces on the shaft where a halo of growth occured on either side of that zinc and the inside of my thru-hulls that I neglected to swab... The thru-hulls are now clogging periodically with growth. Interlux ablative works well for me here in the south and I'll be sure to cover EVERYTHING but the zincs next time.
 
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Paul Akers

I always do

This is my 10th season with this boat (Legend 37) and have painted the shaft & prop each year except one. That year I had barnacle growth everywhere that wasn't painted. Learned a lesson. I always do, now, without any problems. As specified before, NEVER paint under the zincs.
 
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Ed Ryan

Painted shaft and prop for first time

On the recommendation of a fellow sailor, I've painted the prop and shaft this year for the first time. (In previous years, the bottom paint used has not held up, and I had lots of growth on the prop and shaft.) The hardest part was cleaning the parts down to bare metal before starting. Then a thin coat of Interlux Prime Wash 353/354, undiluted, is applied. This is a two part primer that you can find in a quart can. After at least one hour, but within six hours, apply one coat of Interlux Ultra-Kote anti-fouling paint. This is very thick and needs lots of stirring, and is also available in quart cans. Wait at least 24 hours before launching. (Don't paint the zinc or the shaft where the zinc attaches. Also, don't get paint around the cutlass bearing since it needs to get water through there to lube/cool the shaft.) Since the paint is relatively expensive and you need so little, you might find a couple of other boaters to go in on the project, and you'll still have a lifetime supply of paint.
 
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Bob Keller

Thanks to all

Thanks for all the responses. I knew not to paint where the zincs attach to the shaft. I did like the idea about priming or barrier coating prior to painting the shaft. Weather permitting perhaps I will get the chance to do it prior to the bottom getting wet next week. If not there is always next year. Thanks again to all. Hope all have a great season. Bob and Camille s/v Kathryn, Stamford, Ct
 
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