I am trying to find an easy, do-it-myself, and economical way to paint my boat (from the waterline up). Is Glidden porch and floor paint a decent choice? Also, I need to apply it by using a roller so any hints would be great. Thanks...
Painting the outside of a boat
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Please do not be offended, but I am on my third glass of wine and laughing hysterically. Surely you meant that as a joke?!
Haha, unfortunately I'm not kidding, someone said that in another post but I'm not sure what they meant. It is an outdoor polyurethane paint that has almost the same chemical composition as Interlux's brightside
I have heard of people using it above the water line. Not sure how long it will last but it may get you through a few seasons. I decided to pony up and get the Interlux Perfection.
If you are going to roll the Glidden make sure you roll it thin and many coats, You can do the glass test, roll it on a pane of glass and if you see brush strokes when it dries, add a little more thinner to the next test coat until you get the paint to dry without brush strokes. You should invest in a good paintbrush. You may want to start at 10% and work your thinner up from there until you find the right percentage of thinner. Use a digital scale for consistant percentages on each coat. Light wet sand between coats.
Good luck
If you are going to roll the Glidden make sure you roll it thin and many coats, You can do the glass test, roll it on a pane of glass and if you see brush strokes when it dries, add a little more thinner to the next test coat until you get the paint to dry without brush strokes. You should invest in a good paintbrush. You may want to start at 10% and work your thinner up from there until you find the right percentage of thinner. Use a digital scale for consistant percentages on each coat. Light wet sand between coats.
Good luck
Roller
Be sure to use a foam roller, with rounded ends. Otherwise you will leave a little streak from the end of the roller. Thin the paint a little more than recommeded with brushing thinner.
And those who are laughing, this stuff is harder than nails, costs 20 bucks a gallon, and looks as good as any. The long lasting part, will have to be determined.
Be sure to use a foam roller, with rounded ends. Otherwise you will leave a little streak from the end of the roller. Thin the paint a little more than recommeded with brushing thinner.
And those who are laughing, this stuff is harder than nails, costs 20 bucks a gallon, and looks as good as any. The long lasting part, will have to be determined.
Roll and tip
You can get a perfectly acceptable paint job as a "Do It Yourself" project. Preparation, good quality supplies and proper weather conditions will all play into your final results. The actual paint application is the easy part. Start by carefully stripping all surface wax before you do any sanding. If you sand without removing the wax you will only be grinding the wax into the fiberglass and your finished product will be less than favorable. Follow the paint manufacturers directions exactly. I like using a very fine white foam roller like those sold at some big box home improvement stores. After rolling on the paint immediately follow with a light tipping (brush stroke) to get rid of any bubbles or roller marks. You must use a high quality brush for this or you will be leaving brush strokes in the finish. The previous post regarding thinning and sanding between coats is also important as you want the paint to flow out before it starts to dry. Again follow the paint manufacturers suggestions for the maximum percentage of thinner to use. I wouldn't suggest using anything but paints made for a marine environment as they have higher UV blockers than most other paints. The money you save using an inferior paint will be insignificant. If your final paint jobs looks like a DYI project you have not only wasted your time and effort but have also decreased the value of your boat. Good luck and don't rush through any part of this project.
You can get a perfectly acceptable paint job as a "Do It Yourself" project. Preparation, good quality supplies and proper weather conditions will all play into your final results. The actual paint application is the easy part. Start by carefully stripping all surface wax before you do any sanding. If you sand without removing the wax you will only be grinding the wax into the fiberglass and your finished product will be less than favorable. Follow the paint manufacturers directions exactly. I like using a very fine white foam roller like those sold at some big box home improvement stores. After rolling on the paint immediately follow with a light tipping (brush stroke) to get rid of any bubbles or roller marks. You must use a high quality brush for this or you will be leaving brush strokes in the finish. The previous post regarding thinning and sanding between coats is also important as you want the paint to flow out before it starts to dry. Again follow the paint manufacturers suggestions for the maximum percentage of thinner to use. I wouldn't suggest using anything but paints made for a marine environment as they have higher UV blockers than most other paints. The money you save using an inferior paint will be insignificant. If your final paint jobs looks like a DYI project you have not only wasted your time and effort but have also decreased the value of your boat. Good luck and don't rush through any part of this project.
I would doubt it as there is really no way to generalize given the uncertainty of quantifying the cumulative amount of UV exposure reflected off the water which obviously a house doesn't get. Given the incremental increase in cost of a paint with additional UV protectorant, my view is why take the chance?
TiO2 is a UV protectorant and is the primary pigment in paint of the lighter colors.
I read the word paint stripper. Don't put any stripper on fiberglass. It will ruin it. I painted my boat with brightside and topside and it has done very well 5 years so far and it stays in the water. I used the rolling and tipping it worked well, but spraying would work better.
I am not sure if you mean to paint the whole boat but the deck needs paint that will wear well with the walking that on that you will do as well as UV resistance.
Just one other thing I painted th bottom of another boat i had years ago. It was "a good deal on the price". I found myself sanding the bottom again getting it ready to paint it again after one year. The boat prep is 90% of the work. I do not use cheap paint anymore, Glidden is good paint but not formulated for marine enviroments. It may work. Just something to think about.
Good luck
I am not sure if you mean to paint the whole boat but the deck needs paint that will wear well with the walking that on that you will do as well as UV resistance.
Just one other thing I painted th bottom of another boat i had years ago. It was "a good deal on the price". I found myself sanding the bottom again getting it ready to paint it again after one year. The boat prep is 90% of the work. I do not use cheap paint anymore, Glidden is good paint but not formulated for marine enviroments. It may work. Just something to think about.
Good luck
urethane reinforced porch and deck enamel is probably just about as good as can be had with paint that can be applied straight out of the can. There are some brands that I have used that are much better than others. Paints labeled for exterior use in traffic areas will be acceptable for all of your needs.
Avoid painting in full sunlight and on hot, dry days. The paint can dry too quickly in those conditions and won't have time to self level.
Read the label and follow the instructions. Use the best tools that you can get and clean your brushes before you break for lunch or the day and if the brush starts to get caked up.
Avoid painting in full sunlight and on hot, dry days. The paint can dry too quickly in those conditions and won't have time to self level.
Read the label and follow the instructions. Use the best tools that you can get and clean your brushes before you break for lunch or the day and if the brush starts to get caked up.
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