Painting the Mast

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Marcia

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Mar 26, 2007
123
Paceship Yachts PY23 Cove Marina, NAB, Norfolk VA
I am about to embark on the final phase of the rehab project: painting the mast and boom. I have quite a bit of oxidation on the aluminum - looks like rust. There is a bit of pitting here and there, also. I have the primer and the Brightside paint but what else do I need to do? I only want to do this once, so I want to do it right. Thanks for any help.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
There's lots of experience on this board and you will get lots of good advice. But I would start over on Sailnet. I'm pretty sure you will find a Don Casey dissertation on the subject.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
re Brightside

Looking at the picture of your boat it reminds me of one in our marina also owned by a gal, daughter of one of our club members, who owns a Catalina 23 with a white coachroof and red hull. She works summers doing boat jobs in the marinas.

Anyway, back to the subject. With regard to Brightside enamel, I used it only one time and wasn't happy. Used it on fiberglass. I put it on according to the instructions, with the recommended primer or undercoat, thinning it per instructions, and the brush strokes are clearly evident. Ugh! I'm sure others have had better results than me but I put a heck of a lot of prep work, research, etc. in this and it did not come out good.

Anyhow, that's one man's experience.

If I had to do it over again I'd go with a two-part system.

Suggestion: Go to the Interlux web site and download all the detailed information you can. There is much more info than what is printed on the can.

Also, Interlux has had nice brochures that suggest what to use on what surfaces, etc. This may also be available on-line.

Another resource is the Interlux "tech rep". Perhaps call or email Interlux and ask for the persons contact info. If you're in an area with a concentrated number of boat yards it's possible he might make the rounds and be willing to actually stop by and look at your project. There is always an Interlux booth at the Seattle boat show and that's another option. A couple years ago I got an Interlux CD with lots of information about their products from the guy at the booth.

A lot of the job is in preparation and some of that can include just what you're doing - seeking out advice. Then there is the sorting out of just what to do.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
John has a point. A two-part could give you better results. Just be sure to practice on something smaller. Two-part sets fast and you have to keep a wet edge constantly. I never use it because I work alone and if I drop a brush or run out of paint the results are not good. I have had some success with Brightside but much better luck with Toplac. Interlux may have replaced that with an even better one-part. Following are a couple of articles from Sailnet:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance-articles/19959-refinishing-anodized-masts.html
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/7400-etching-mast.html
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I repainted my mast, which had extensive bare patches, with Benjamine Moore DTM (Direct To Metal) paint. This is the industrial paint that they use on stuff like dumpsters and construction equipment. It requires no primer on metal and is tough as nails.

I got 1 - 2 grand estimates for an Awlgrip job. I did it with 17 bucks of paint and two hours work. It held up beautifully and the fancy yacht yard that pulled the stick commented on how nice it looked. The BJ color "Pebble Beach" is an exact match for the original grey that Kenyon spars used and looks very nice but they can mix up any color you want.

Painting the mast will be a lot easier if you remove the head and any foot fittings and make a simple rig like the one shown below. You just insert the blocks in the masts and set the shafts on sawhorses with chocks to keep them from rolling off when you turn the mast. The shafts can be any pipe or rod you can scavange. Trust me, it's worth the time to make this rig up.

I also used the DTM paint for a sheer stripe on my topsides. It was so successful that I'm going to use it on the non-nonskid parts my cabin top and deck. The gelcoat is too far gone to restore by buffing.

You can see the sheer stripe here:

http://www.rogerlongboats.com/08Paint.htm

They've raised the price. It's now about 22 bucks a quart.
 

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jimg

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Jun 5, 2004
175
catalina 27 dana point
I have done this job twice. Once with Pettit paint and once with the Interlux Brightside. The Brightside goes on well and stays glossy longer. Is you are doing this in white, any brushsrokes should be nearly invisible. Use a primer made for bare metal (assuming it isn't painted already) and follow the directions for the "roll and tip" method. Yes, a 2-part is more durable, but it is much more tricky to apply DIY by brush. I have painted two dinghys a light color with Brightsides and they looked perfect. I have painted my larger keelboat (dark) with Brightside, and 2 others before it with different brands, and Brightside would be my choice again. Use what you have on the mast. It will look great!
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Second that on the "roll and tip". That's what I did on the mast, using small foam rollers. It wouldn't have looked nearly so good if I hadn't gone over it lightly with a foam brush shortly after.

On the fiberglass, where I had to do more than one coat due to portions of an old brown stripe below, I was advised to brush the first coat so as to work the paint in for better adhesion. I then rolled the second coat on.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Pick a cool overcast day so that drying time is extended. I am in favor of the direct to metal industrial paints but what you have will serve you well. use a very good brush And always make your last brush stroke towards the wet edge. That way you don't drag thin spots in the paint.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
If...

If you only want to do this once, (still won't be likely:doh:), I'd opt for a two part paint like Interlux Perfection as opposed to Brightsides. Tim R. Just did his spar two years ago and it came out looking pro quality but he took his time and probably has more than 80 hours into it with removal of all hardware, prep, prime and re-finish..

Perhaps he'll chime in on what he learned..
 
Feb 4, 2005
524
Catalina C-30 Mattituck, NY
I like Roger's results although I am not familiar with the paint he suggested. It looks good.

I painted my mast about 4 yrs ago and used a 2-part paint called imron. I know an auto-body guy who came in after I prepped everything and he sprayed it. The prep was the most difficult part. It came out great so far. You can certainly get away with using the brush - tip method as well and I would not hesitate to go that road nest time. Use a 2-part paint though.

Also - you may want to consider re-wiring the mast and upgrading any hardware as now is a good time to drill and pull wire.
 
Z

Zimmie

Question about Benjamin Moore DTM...

...for Roger, or anyone else who has used it. I'm wondering how it would work for painting a bilge? No matter how well you clean it I assume there will be oil and other grunge left prior to painting - do you think the DTM paint would work in this application? Price sounds right. Thanks.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
...for Roger, or anyone else who has used it. I'm wondering how it would work for painting a bilge? No matter how well you clean it I assume there will be oil and other grunge left prior to painting - do you think the DTM paint would work in this application? Price sounds right. Thanks.
I wouldn't count on it if there is oil on the surface. Other wise, I think it would work.
 
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
I wouldn't use any paint in the bilge, since most paints are not formulated for prolonged immersion. Most paints will blister and peel if used in the bilge, due to the prolonged immersion that can occasionally occur. The only product I would recommend for use in the bilge is something like Interprotect 2000E epoxy barrier coating.
...for Roger, or anyone else who has used it. I'm wondering how it would work for painting a bilge? No matter how well you clean it I assume there will be oil and other grunge left prior to painting - do you think the DTM paint would work in this application? Price sounds right. Thanks.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Good point. I forgot that many bilges always have water in them. I'm able to keep mine dry except for condensation and the small sump.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Swimming pool paint if you must.
 

bob393

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Dec 26, 2008
5
SailCat 14 Newburgh
I can vouche for the durability of Benjamine Moore paint and specifically the DTM (Direct To Metal) primer. I use it extensively and have NEVER had a product failure! Now that said I haver never used it in a naval application like painting a mast mast. IMHO
 

bob393

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Dec 26, 2008
5
SailCat 14 Newburgh
...for Roger, or anyone else who has used it. I'm wondering how it would work for painting a bilge? No matter how well you clean it I assume there will be oil and other grunge left prior to painting - do you think the DTM paint would work in this application? Price sounds right. Thanks.
NO, The magic of the DTN Primer is in its ability to bond to metal and stick that is etch the surface. I would not use it on metal with any trace of oil or grease. That's a different problem!
 
Jan 22, 2008
17
Macgregor 25 Rocklin, CA
Marcia

I have a Mac 25 that I have restored. My mast is currently being Powder Coated. Not sure of the total process but the paint is electrostatically applied and baked at a higher temp than normal paints. The end result is great looking ad extreamly durable. We use to powder coat the frames and rollcages of our race cars this way.

Good Luck

Art
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,792
- -- -Bayfield
First of all, I would think you would want to use a paint that will last the longest on the mast since you are going to go through all of this work in the first place. Budget, of course plays a role, but if your budget is 17 bucks, I guess you get a 17 buck paint job. Any urethane paint should be better for gloss retention, abrasion resistance and longevity than an other paint like epoxy (top coat type) which doesn't hold up to sunlight very long, or Alkyds, etc. Two part urethanes are the best, such as the linear polyurethane that Awlgrip provides in either Awlgrip or Awlcraft (the latter being not as hard and therefore more repairable and also more VOC compliant).
But, Awlgrips are much more expensive than the Brightside paints (which are good basic do it yourselfer paints at a more reasonable price). Interlux also has two part urethane paints for brushing which are very good, but your color selection is limited in comparison to Awlgrip. But then, most masts are painted white or black, I guess.
With any paint, you want to follow the recommended system offered by the manufacturer. This should be pretty straight forward and if followed, you won't go too wrong. Aluminum requires more proper prep for longevity than say, fiberglass painting. Off the top of my head (I don't have product info in front of me), on an aluminum mast, you want to sand it all to bare, scuffing it up to remove all earlier applied paint, if previously painted or remove any oxidation and to provide a tooth for your paint.
Then you want to clean the mast. Awlgrip says to wash the mast with Alumiprep 33 (I believe that is the name) and then etch it with an Alodine solution (1201 or something like that). Then you paint on a yellow zinc chromate primer (can't recall the nomenclature right now - it has a Y in the name, I believe) and then apply the two part epoxy primer 545 on that. Then you are ready for the color of choice. If you need to do some fairing then fair AFTER you apply the primer. Don't put fairing compound on the bare aluminum or that is where you will have paint failure down the road. Apply the primer, use the fairing compound and prime over it again.
You can spray Awlgrip (us Awlcat #2 catalyst) or brush/roll it (using Awlcat #3). There are different reducers to thin the paint for spraying for various temperature conditions. And, if you want, you can add excellerators to cure the paint quicker.
This is enough info to get you started. Awgrip has a very detailed pamphlet/book to obtain the necessary info on prep, painting application, etc.
BTW Interlux has a bilge coat paint designed for bilges for those who brought up that issue.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
First of all, I would think you would want to use a paint that will last the longest on the mast since you are going to go through all of this work in the first place. Budget, of course plays a role, but if your budget is 17 bucks, I guess you get a 17 buck paint job.
Actually, I used it because I think it's probably better than the overpriced stuff you get in the marine store. After all, BM has a larger research staff and budget. They also have more customers to complain if the stuff doesn't hold up.

After the first season, it looked just like it did when I put the mast up, good enough to be commented on by the yacht yard rigger who pulled the mast.

It's partly an experiment. I'll get back to you in 4 - 5 years.
 
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