Painting The Hull

vegatern · Sep 22, 2008

I painted the Vega a couple of summers ago. I used a two part
epoxy on deck and cabin (interlux perfection) after removing most
everything that was bolted down. The entire surface was preped,
sanded, primed, sanded, painted, sanded, and painted. Lots of
sanding. If I recall I figured about 400 hours to get her back to
sailing trim. This was done in the water. I then hauled her to
paint the topsides. Because I had a short time frame, and other
projects as well, I chose to use a one part urethane, Interlux
Brightsides. (because it would be easier to sand out inevitable
mistakes) Most of the dings had been repaired in the water so all I
really had to do is sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, and paint. The
final coat was done in the morning before the sun got high and yard
got busy. The hull was rolled and tipped with a good brush, each side
required about 30 min working alone. The topsides required perhaps 3
mandays total. With careful attention to dust suppression and paint
viscosity it is possible to get a sprayed appearance by hand. (My
yard won't permit do-it-yourselfer's to spray, and their spray looks
like a do-it-yourselfer's) An advantage to using a one part urethane
on the topsides is that I can repair scratches without having to mix a
two-part. The deck is however holding up better.
Most owners use a two part on the topsides. If you are tempted to
spray a two part you should know that a positive pressure respirator
is required. One that is supplies air, by hose and at pressure, from
a remote source. A common respirator is not adequate. Two- parts
contain chemicals that, when atomized, may cause a reaction that can
be fatal. Brushing two parts is not dangerous though.
Interlux perfection is holding up well on the deck but Awlgrip is
probably considered the top end. If you are having someone else
paint, check out their work. Most professional boat painters are that
in name only (from my experience).
Craig Tern #1519

vega1860 · Sep 23, 2008

We painted Lealea with Awlgrip more than ten years ago. She's about
ready for a re-paint now.

We were intimidated by the two-part epoxy and hired a professional
boat painter to help us. We went along with his recommendation to
spray the deck and cabin and use brush and roller for the hull.
Afterwards, no one who hadn't seen us working would believe that we
hadn't sprayed the whole boat. It looked like it had been dipped in
glass; startlingly shiny!

When we re-paint her, Laura and I will buy the paint and do it
ourselves with Awlgrip. Thorough preparation is the key. We took
several days masking, cleaning with solvent, sanding and wiping down
with denatured alcohol before applying paint.

I hope this helps.

Malie ke kai,

Chuck Rose
SV lealea, V1860

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alan_critchlow · Oct 1, 2008

We repainted Voila in 2005. She looked great when we sold her this
spring. SHe is now in St Martin. Her new owner loves her.

I have a couple of comments on painting. The deck is about five times
the work than the hull. The main problem is that you can not walk
where you just painted. If you can arrange spray painting that is
great. The two part polyurethane is great but toxic if sprayed. It is
moisture cured. You can imagine what it does to your moist lungs. The
actual painting does not take long but the preprations took time. We
used Awlgrip. This is a professional product. Believe it. A lot of
the fillers and preps assume that you will spray The brushing of the
paint actually goes well. Thinning is counterintuitive. If it runs,
thin it more.

We used a roller and tipped with a brush. I saw a professional use a
urethane roller alone and it went faster.

I hope this helps

Alan

johnsons185 · Oct 15, 2008

Hi,
I to am looking to paint the hull and deck area this winter and
also, looking fot tips and paint types to use. The hull is in good
order just needs a freshen up but has been painted before with what
i do not know. As for the decks im not sure what to use on them as
obviously we will be walking on it and need somthing hard wearing,
we also need to paint the coach roof as the original gelcoat has now
faded alot.

i to would be interested on any tips

regards

scott, vega 893

pjacobs55 · Oct 15, 2008

Hi Scott,
There're various opinions on what is best to use. My preference would
be for a two-part polyurethane, using the roll and tip method for
application.

There's an excellent little book by Don Casey called "Sailboat
Refinishing". I highly recommend reading it before making the move.

Also, there's a forum of do-it-yourself boat people at
http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/
with a search feature on the site ... a lot of good epionions there.
The owner/administrator of the site has a boat restoration business
and gives excellent advice on all matters marine.
Hope this helps,
Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha' (also in need of paint!)

johnsons185 · Nov 4, 2008

Hello thanks for the repy,
i have been to our local international agent today, he says if i
dont know what was used for the last paint job he would not recomend
two pack as it can only be applied ontop of two pack, so if the old
paint job is somthing else it may react. He recomende international
toplac for the hull and coach roof and maybe interdeck for the deck
areas which is toplac with a fine grit to it.

Not sure what to do

thanks

scott

vegatern · Nov 6, 2008

Scott
If you are concerned that the solvent in the new finish will lift
the old finish you can test the old finish by saturating a cloth with
the new paint's solvent and taping it against the hull. Cover the
cloth with heavy plastic and seal the edges with tape. Let it work
for 6 or 8 hours and then check the old finish. If you are still not
sure you might try preping and painting a small area (the transom)
first, before commencing the entire project.
Craig Tern 1519