The Hunter 33.5 has bottom paint with a rounded line at the stern. The accent Stripe is curved at the stern as well. Anyone have any suggestions how paint this, Can it be taped?
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Taping Boot Stripe
Starting a the bow, the tape stretches for the moderate curves, but as you get to the compound curves under the transom you probably need to tear off 2" lengths and overlap one piece with the next untill you are past the tightest curve. Press the tape down with a rounded scrwewdriver handle so it adheres tightly to the hull.
Starting a the bow, the tape stretches for the moderate curves, but as you get to the compound curves under the transom you probably need to tear off 2" lengths and overlap one piece with the next untill you are past the tightest curve. Press the tape down with a rounded scrwewdriver handle so it adheres tightly to the hull.
Here's where watching the guys...
...in the body shop helps. Running a contiuous tape and making short folds back on itself. Takes a little practice but after a while you'll get the hang of it.
...in the body shop helps. Running a contiuous tape and making short folds back on itself. Takes a little practice but after a while you'll get the hang of it.
Use the 3M Green Fine Line #218 tape
I am right-handed and start at the port bow and work aft. I hold the tape at the water line with my left hand and pull (not stretch) the tape out about 24". Lay the tape down at the edge and work along. On the long straight sections of the hull laying out long pulls of the tape will eliminate the up-and-down wavering of 4-6" pulls. As you get to the stern, pull the tape out only 6" or so and continue to lay the edge of the tape at the water line. In order to make the curve, stretch the outside edge of the tape as you are laying the inside edge at the water line. Hold your left thumb against the tape where is is meeting the hull. Lift the tape back up if it is not perfect and place it back down again. This is easier if you do not have to work on a stepladder to reach the waterline. After doing the port side in one piece, I continue at the stern and work toward the bow. I use only two pieces of tape for the entire waterline unless I have a partial roll of tape. After all the tape is applied, I go around the entire length and press my fingernail along the edge of the tape that is against the waterline in order to obtain the tightest seal. I almost never get any bleeding under the tape. The biggest secret of success is the tape. Don't cheap out on the tape. The 3M Fine Line #218 is the best I've ever used. I use the 1/2" size for ease of following a curve. A 60yd roll is $6.55 at Jamestown Distributors. It is a one-day tape, but I have gone as long as two full days without problems. I pull the tape at a 30 degree angle AWAY from the painted section and 30 degrees UP from the surface of the hull. I remove the tape immediately after the last coat of bottom paint has been applied. The paint is set well because I paint the keel last and the waterline area has had at least an hour to dry. Don't wait a long time to remove the tape. If the paint is completely dry and hardened, it can chip the edge of the paint as the tape is removed. Remove the tape when the paint is still slightly soft.
I am right-handed and start at the port bow and work aft. I hold the tape at the water line with my left hand and pull (not stretch) the tape out about 24". Lay the tape down at the edge and work along. On the long straight sections of the hull laying out long pulls of the tape will eliminate the up-and-down wavering of 4-6" pulls. As you get to the stern, pull the tape out only 6" or so and continue to lay the edge of the tape at the water line. In order to make the curve, stretch the outside edge of the tape as you are laying the inside edge at the water line. Hold your left thumb against the tape where is is meeting the hull. Lift the tape back up if it is not perfect and place it back down again. This is easier if you do not have to work on a stepladder to reach the waterline. After doing the port side in one piece, I continue at the stern and work toward the bow. I use only two pieces of tape for the entire waterline unless I have a partial roll of tape. After all the tape is applied, I go around the entire length and press my fingernail along the edge of the tape that is against the waterline in order to obtain the tightest seal. I almost never get any bleeding under the tape. The biggest secret of success is the tape. Don't cheap out on the tape. The 3M Fine Line #218 is the best I've ever used. I use the 1/2" size for ease of following a curve. A 60yd roll is $6.55 at Jamestown Distributors. It is a one-day tape, but I have gone as long as two full days without problems. I pull the tape at a 30 degree angle AWAY from the painted section and 30 degrees UP from the surface of the hull. I remove the tape immediately after the last coat of bottom paint has been applied. The paint is set well because I paint the keel last and the waterline area has had at least an hour to dry. Don't wait a long time to remove the tape. If the paint is completely dry and hardened, it can chip the edge of the paint as the tape is removed. Remove the tape when the paint is still slightly soft.
Well said Rick
Rick: I've seldom read a more accurate, and clearly & consicely written "how to" piece. Well said!!! Gord
Rick: I've seldom read a more accurate, and clearly & consicely written "how to" piece. Well said!!! Gord
Thanks for your comment, Gord
Everything is easy(er) when you know how. No job is so simple it can't be screwed up....
Everything is easy(er) when you know how. No job is so simple it can't be screwed up....
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