It is an 82 Hunter 27, sails in Lake Erie. Probably should have painted last year but did not. Prior paint was VC 17. The paint looks faded but the surface seems smooth (It is washed at haul out). I am looking for what I need to do in terms of prep and paint for simple functional maintenance. "My father taught me to work, he never taught me to like it." (Abe Lincoln) Andy S/V Baroque
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Bottom paint
This will be my second year using Interlux Micron extra with Biolux. It lasted 2 years with good results. Used two coats with minor prep work. Good luck.
This will be my second year using Interlux Micron extra with Biolux. It lasted 2 years with good results. Used two coats with minor prep work. Good luck.
H27 Paint
I had a H27 for about 16 years. As long as the base paint was hard and not peeling, all I did was to sand the bottom with a hand sander and No 60 coarse paper. Tape the water line, then paint with a modified epoxy (1 gallon and 1 quart). Applied with a roller. Never had a problem.
I had a H27 for about 16 years. As long as the base paint was hard and not peeling, all I did was to sand the bottom with a hand sander and No 60 coarse paper. Tape the water line, then paint with a modified epoxy (1 gallon and 1 quart). Applied with a roller. Never had a problem.
Easiest? Hire it Done!
Couldn't resist this opportunity! Many paints, including VC-17 and Petit Trinidad for example, loose their toxcisity when the boat is out of the water for several days. Check the link below. For sanding, my preference is to use a random orbital disk sander with suction. The paper has holes in it so it costs a bit more but a few 60 grit sheets (not into serious racing) should do your boat. My setup is a Bosh with a hose that connects to a shop vac that has a special sheetrock dust bag, extra fine, to keep the copper dust out of the motor. The connection hose has to be emptied every so often to get the dust that settled out going into the shop vac. The last two times I hired a guy to do the sanding by the hour but I did the taping, painting, and waxing. Use an old extension chord that you don't mind turning blue, coveralls with integral hood (paper is the best), booties (paper ...), mask, gloves, etc. The above is for starters. Have you done this before?
Couldn't resist this opportunity! Many paints, including VC-17 and Petit Trinidad for example, loose their toxcisity when the boat is out of the water for several days. Check the link below. For sanding, my preference is to use a random orbital disk sander with suction. The paper has holes in it so it costs a bit more but a few 60 grit sheets (not into serious racing) should do your boat. My setup is a Bosh with a hose that connects to a shop vac that has a special sheetrock dust bag, extra fine, to keep the copper dust out of the motor. The connection hose has to be emptied every so often to get the dust that settled out going into the shop vac. The last two times I hired a guy to do the sanding by the hour but I did the taping, painting, and waxing. Use an old extension chord that you don't mind turning blue, coveralls with integral hood (paper is the best), booties (paper ...), mask, gloves, etc. The above is for starters. Have you done this before?
VC 17
Mask then roll or spray (airless) a coat of VC 17 thinned with a capful (VC 17) of MEK. Should take about 2 cans of VC 17 and about 2 1/2 hours if you spray.
Mask then roll or spray (airless) a coat of VC 17 thinned with a capful (VC 17) of MEK. Should take about 2 cans of VC 17 and about 2 1/2 hours if you spray.
vc17
I have used vc 17 for seven years have never done any serious sanding, if there is an area where it is not sticking I might , I just go over the vc 17 with a wet scotch brite, hose off and the use a short nap roller, , they are the small ones about the size of a cigar, it goes quick , has the consistency of water, and you can do several coats , it is easy to use and lasts, good luck, Mike B
I have used vc 17 for seven years have never done any serious sanding, if there is an area where it is not sticking I might , I just go over the vc 17 with a wet scotch brite, hose off and the use a short nap roller, , they are the small ones about the size of a cigar, it goes quick , has the consistency of water, and you can do several coats , it is easy to use and lasts, good luck, Mike B
VC17 fan
I like VC17. It goes on fast and has a nice smooth finish that scrubs easily. The paint wears away slowly so you don't have to sand before applying new paint. Just scrub the old surface with a scotchbrite and go. The paint dries very quickly (10 minutes is typical) so there is no waiting time between coats. As a matter of fact, you may want to keep some thinner handy as the paint can dry in the roller tray before you apply it all. I think that's why they sell it in those tiny cans. When recoating, add an extra coat or two along the first six inches or so below the waterline all around. This is where the algae grows the most (most sunlight) and VC does not contain an algaecide. If your lake water is real clear you may have to go deeper. The front third of the hull and the leading edges of the keel and rudder should also get an extra coat. My boat stays in fresh water most of the year with some trailering and sailing in salt water and two coats of VC17 last about 14 months. I use the red VC17 and bring the paint up about 3 inches above the waterline so it looks like a boot topping stripe. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
I like VC17. It goes on fast and has a nice smooth finish that scrubs easily. The paint wears away slowly so you don't have to sand before applying new paint. Just scrub the old surface with a scotchbrite and go. The paint dries very quickly (10 minutes is typical) so there is no waiting time between coats. As a matter of fact, you may want to keep some thinner handy as the paint can dry in the roller tray before you apply it all. I think that's why they sell it in those tiny cans. When recoating, add an extra coat or two along the first six inches or so below the waterline all around. This is where the algae grows the most (most sunlight) and VC does not contain an algaecide. If your lake water is real clear you may have to go deeper. The front third of the hull and the leading edges of the keel and rudder should also get an extra coat. My boat stays in fresh water most of the year with some trailering and sailing in salt water and two coats of VC17 last about 14 months. I use the red VC17 and bring the paint up about 3 inches above the waterline so it looks like a boot topping stripe. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
VC-17 Tip
Rather than pour VC-17 into a paint tray, I pour it into a 44oz plastic ketchup bottle with one of those flip-up lids. You can give the bottle a shake to keep the copper in suspension and squeeze paint directly onto the roller. This keeps the paint from drying up before it makes it to your hull. Here in Texas, the solvent in VC-17 can evaporate right before your eyes. And, that bottle will hold an entire quart of paint
Rather than pour VC-17 into a paint tray, I pour it into a 44oz plastic ketchup bottle with one of those flip-up lids. You can give the bottle a shake to keep the copper in suspension and squeeze paint directly onto the roller. This keeps the paint from drying up before it makes it to your hull. Here in Texas, the solvent in VC-17 can evaporate right before your eyes. And, that bottle will hold an entire quart of paint
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