painting of upper hull

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Michael Angier

I was told today by a yacht surveyor that it cost about $230 a foot to have the upper hull painted with AwlGrip--dark blue on a white hull. This seems kind of pricey. Is this rasonable or is he trying to steer me away from a particular boat? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Does it have to be painted?

Michael: Does it have to be painted. There are other options such as Island Girl or Poli-Glow treatments. I have heard that $200-300/ft is in line. You can also use a one part or two part poly and do it yourself. Depends on what the boat is worth. You can always re-gel coat the boat too.
 
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Ed Schenck

Upper hull?

Assume you are referring to the topsides, hull between the toerail and waterline. Many owners have done this themselves and my 1979 H37C will someday need that. I am practicing on the white cabinsides right now. All my portlights are out so it is quite easy to roll and tip. The first coat looked great except for some sags. I have talked to some experts and I used too much paint(Interlux Brightside) in the foam roller. When I finish you won't be able to tell it from a spray job. Downside? It's paint, not gelcoat.
 
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners

Awlgrip is expensive

Doesn't sound completely out of line cuz you're mainly paying for a professional to do the job. You could do it yourself with Brightsides but Awlgrip is much harder and won't scratch so easily - and if you're changing colors, that makes a big difference. BTW, if a yacht surveyor was trying to steer you away from a particular boat, he'd tell you. LaDonna
 
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Jim WIllis

Don't paint unless you have to. If you do.....

Dark blue gelcoat gets a "greyish" look due to chalk in the pores. This can be fixed very cheaply with the Island GIrl System (for about $50-60) If the gelcoat is worn through or badly cracked etc then you could condiser painting. I would always use a two part paint in possible . I had good luck with hand application of two part interlux on the transfom, floor boards of my inflatable dinghy. You wet sant with 220 grit to keep smooth and remove runs. Use 400 grit before th last coat and (in my case) I put the last coat by spraying with a propellant system to avoid brush marks and used our masking gbel to protect the hypalon. Although I have not done it myself, the sponge roller sounds like a better idea. One last thing. It is very importatn to thoroughly wet sand (water containing detergent) and dewax the surface (use comercial wax and silicone remover from an autopaint store). before applying the paint. If you have spider cracks (see posting below) dremel them out and fill, then sand smooth. Otherwise the wax in the cracks could interfere with adhesion of the paint and cause "fisheyes". Putting some fisheye remover (actually a low viscosity silicone) in the paint is also a good idea. Remember that with dark blue, the finish has to be immaculate because of the reflective nature of this dark color. All of this means much labor - cheap if you do it yourself but expensive if you pay for it. I know I have done bodywork and paint on 4 different cars and the polyurethane pained cars came out just as good as at a shop. Thanks Jim Willis Thanks Jim Willis
 
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Michael Angier

Thank you all

Your comments are all appreciated. Haven't bought the boat yet, so we'll see.
 
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Barry

Michael .........

I've got an h34 in Malletts Bay (the Moorings Marina) and lots of experience with Vertglas, Poly Glow, ... I painted the cockpit floor locker covers/seats using Brightside paint. If you buy the boat and are a do-it-youselfer look me up. If you write checks for repairs I would consider something other than an old Hunter. Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
 
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