Opinions please. There have many questions about redoing decks lately. My question is whether or not repainting the deck, assuming a reasonable level of quality, would impact the value of a boat of mid-80's vintage. If you were looking to purchase a boat with a new deck job, would this scare you off or make it more appealing? Thanks
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Gel Coat or Two Part!
Jack: If/when the day comes to re-do the non-skid on our boat, I would ONLY use a 2 Part Poly paint or re-do with with Gel Coat. The problem with using a single part paint is the cleaners that you can use on the rest of the fiber glass. Good cleaners that can be used on Gel Coat can remove the paint. I have been told that 2 part poly paints should last for 8-10 years if properly applied.
Jack: If/when the day comes to re-do the non-skid on our boat, I would ONLY use a 2 Part Poly paint or re-do with with Gel Coat. The problem with using a single part paint is the cleaners that you can use on the rest of the fiber glass. Good cleaners that can be used on Gel Coat can remove the paint. I have been told that 2 part poly paints should last for 8-10 years if properly applied.
Quality
The worst thing you could do is repaint and have it not look professional. We looked at boats that had been redone in a poor fashion and would not consider them. To redo a bad job would take twice the effort. Good Luck
The worst thing you could do is repaint and have it not look professional. We looked at boats that had been redone in a poor fashion and would not consider them. To redo a bad job would take twice the effort. Good Luck
Awl Grip
I had great results in painting my previous Oday with Awl Grip, (2 part paint for topsides,) it is hard as nails once cured, and looks great, it even matched the previous color perfectly right out of the can!! That being said, it looks factory. John
I had great results in painting my previous Oday with Awl Grip, (2 part paint for topsides,) it is hard as nails once cured, and looks great, it even matched the previous color perfectly right out of the can!! That being said, it looks factory. John
I also used Brightside
I rolled on Brightside on the nonskid area of my 1981 H33 about 4 years ago. I used the Interlux flattener on the last coat to reduce the gloss (too much glare from the sun), and also used the Interlux brand anti-skid additive. Overall, I would say it is holding up very well. There are areas that I have let the whisker pole scratch the paint, but that is minimal. I believe I will touch-up the needed areas next season. It was easy to apply, but masking was a pain. I wonder if the 2-part epoxy paints will last longer or what? This is a non-skid area afterall, and it doesn't need the smoothness and shine that the hull needs. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
I rolled on Brightside on the nonskid area of my 1981 H33 about 4 years ago. I used the Interlux flattener on the last coat to reduce the gloss (too much glare from the sun), and also used the Interlux brand anti-skid additive. Overall, I would say it is holding up very well. There are areas that I have let the whisker pole scratch the paint, but that is minimal. I believe I will touch-up the needed areas next season. It was easy to apply, but masking was a pain. I wonder if the 2-part epoxy paints will last longer or what? This is a non-skid area afterall, and it doesn't need the smoothness and shine that the hull needs. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
How about paint on paint?
My '79 C30 nonskid gelcoat was yellow (ugg!) and repainted tan. The yellow is showing through a little and it looks lousy. Has anyone put two-part over existing paint? I would assume the paint would have to removed first? Anyone done so? Chris
My '79 C30 nonskid gelcoat was yellow (ugg!) and repainted tan. The yellow is showing through a little and it looks lousy. Has anyone put two-part over existing paint? I would assume the paint would have to removed first? Anyone done so? Chris
How much prep?
I've been considering redoing the topsides since we got our boat, but I'm afraid of what it would take. Specifically, the little diamond shaped non-skid nobbies (I'm sure they have a name). There are several areas where the tops of these are worn through. Do these products (Awl Grip and Brightsides specifically) require me to touch up all of those before application or do they provide a sufficient enough finish that that's not necessary? J.T.
I've been considering redoing the topsides since we got our boat, but I'm afraid of what it would take. Specifically, the little diamond shaped non-skid nobbies (I'm sure they have a name). There are several areas where the tops of these are worn through. Do these products (Awl Grip and Brightsides specifically) require me to touch up all of those before application or do they provide a sufficient enough finish that that's not necessary? J.T.
Quite a bit of prep
It's significantly easier if you're just planning on the non-skid, as opposed to the entire topsides. I did the whole shebang and ugh! The non-skid areas are relatively easy cuz you're gonna have to use some kind of silicone/sandy additive to create a non-skid surface. Search the archives cuz there's info aplenty on repainting your non-skid. LaDonna
It's significantly easier if you're just planning on the non-skid, as opposed to the entire topsides. I did the whole shebang and ugh! The non-skid areas are relatively easy cuz you're gonna have to use some kind of silicone/sandy additive to create a non-skid surface. Search the archives cuz there's info aplenty on repainting your non-skid. LaDonna
I have to agree
with LaDonna. I too, have just finished painting my non skid deck area with Interlux Brightsides one part. Fraulein II is a '77 Hunter 30. If I had to sell here today, how much more would she fetch just because she had been Awlgripped or painted with any other high priced two-part? If I had a $100,000 boat, I would probably have a different perspective on this. I painted with the same brand (some light grey which really looked blue) about three years ago and only repainted with off-white so I could stand on the deck in bare feet in the summer - which is about nine months of the year here. Total cost:about $65 and several days. With proper prep, I would think just about any good quality paint should hold up at least a few years. Roland S/V Fraulein II
with LaDonna. I too, have just finished painting my non skid deck area with Interlux Brightsides one part. Fraulein II is a '77 Hunter 30. If I had to sell here today, how much more would she fetch just because she had been Awlgripped or painted with any other high priced two-part? If I had a $100,000 boat, I would probably have a different perspective on this. I painted with the same brand (some light grey which really looked blue) about three years ago and only repainted with off-white so I could stand on the deck in bare feet in the summer - which is about nine months of the year here. Total cost:about $65 and several days. With proper prep, I would think just about any good quality paint should hold up at least a few years. Roland S/V Fraulein II
LaDonna
Didn't say you didn't. It was another post and the wrong use of the term "topsides" has shown up before. Don't get testy.
Didn't say you didn't. It was another post and the wrong use of the term "topsides" has shown up before. Don't get testy.
What I want to know...
..is, if you have to mix in some grit or some other material as LaDonna mentioned, how does this change the appearance (and resale value) of a boat like a Catalina 30 that has a distinctive nonskid pattern? I did notice at a recent boat show, that the Catalina 420 has a "grit" type nonskid.
..is, if you have to mix in some grit or some other material as LaDonna mentioned, how does this change the appearance (and resale value) of a boat like a Catalina 30 that has a distinctive nonskid pattern? I did notice at a recent boat show, that the Catalina 420 has a "grit" type nonskid.
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