Any harm to doing the bottompainting in 40-50 degree temps? Will it flake off? Other problems? Thanks.
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Not trying to...........
Not trying to sound like a smart ass, but, read the label. Also, in addition to the ambient (outside) air temps, the surface temp is also critical. If the label is in rough condition and cant be read, go to the manufacturers website and look up that product and you should be able to find the Product Data sheets. This will give you all the info you need.
Not trying to sound like a smart ass, but, read the label. Also, in addition to the ambient (outside) air temps, the surface temp is also critical. If the label is in rough condition and cant be read, go to the manufacturers website and look up that product and you should be able to find the Product Data sheets. This will give you all the info you need.
A painter once told me...
"It's never too hot to paint." Generally 60 degrees is about the cutoff point for a decent job, and warmer is better. The paint flows and adheres better in warmer conditions - and that means you want the paint as well as the surface to be painted to be as warm (within reason) as possible.
"It's never too hot to paint." Generally 60 degrees is about the cutoff point for a decent job, and warmer is better. The paint flows and adheres better in warmer conditions - and that means you want the paint as well as the surface to be painted to be as warm (within reason) as possible.
Bob, the painter was wrong.
Generally, warmer is better, but there is a point in the sweltering heat of the summer and the surface temp of the area exposed to the sun in which if brushed or rolled, the brush and roller will drag. If sprayed, the paint will set up before it can properly flow. So...It can get too hot to paint.The problem is usually not the air temp, but the surface temp. The paint product specs will tell you when to expect this and at which temp to use what thinner. Credentials???... I'm a Protective Coatings Inspector by trade. Tony B
Generally, warmer is better, but there is a point in the sweltering heat of the summer and the surface temp of the area exposed to the sun in which if brushed or rolled, the brush and roller will drag. If sprayed, the paint will set up before it can properly flow. So...It can get too hot to paint.The problem is usually not the air temp, but the surface temp. The paint product specs will tell you when to expect this and at which temp to use what thinner. Credentials???... I'm a Protective Coatings Inspector by trade. Tony B
There are recommended
temperature ranges but up here we're lucky to get 50 degrees in April so as long as it isn't snowing or raining we paint.
temperature ranges but up here we're lucky to get 50 degrees in April so as long as it isn't snowing or raining we paint.
Time befor launch...
When bottom painting, not only temp. is important to know but how much time will lapse before recommissioning, generally no more than 45 - 60 days should lapse between the time you paint and you splash in!!
When bottom painting, not only temp. is important to know but how much time will lapse before recommissioning, generally no more than 45 - 60 days should lapse between the time you paint and you splash in!!
paint to launch time
I think the interval between painting and launching is important with only some paints. With most ablatives, the timing is irrelevent. Some epoxy paints will oxidize if it is left to dry too long.
I think the interval between painting and launching is important with only some paints. With most ablatives, the timing is irrelevent. Some epoxy paints will oxidize if it is left to dry too long.
sailortonyb ......
I think a pro painter KNOWS how much thinner to add to compensate for high temp and aggressive 'flash rates' of the solvent. Such thinning schedules are usually listed in the TECH SHEETS that somehow are only given out to the 'pros'.
I think a pro painter KNOWS how much thinner to add to compensate for high temp and aggressive 'flash rates' of the solvent. Such thinning schedules are usually listed in the TECH SHEETS that somehow are only given out to the 'pros'.
Rich H
I work with the 'Pros' everyday. All i can say is that if they knew only half as much as they thought they did, major corporations would not have to hire inspectors. Most of the "pro's" have to be watched because they only know what someone once showed them and they have never read a product data sheet in their life. There are different types of thinners that are used in different temp. ranges and this is determined more by the flash point of the thinner and not the quantity. In order not to start a fight on here, let me say that this does not apply to every single painter that ever lived, just 95%. If is sounds like a smart ass statement, sorry you are offended. Most boat painters in boat yards are pretty good. Generally they stick to only one brand and know it well. As for the TECH SHEETS, PRODUCT DATA SHEETS or whatever the manufacturer chooses to call them, they are generally NOT shipped with the products. They can usually be obtained easily on the internet or call the manufacturer and they will gladly send it to you.
I work with the 'Pros' everyday. All i can say is that if they knew only half as much as they thought they did, major corporations would not have to hire inspectors. Most of the "pro's" have to be watched because they only know what someone once showed them and they have never read a product data sheet in their life. There are different types of thinners that are used in different temp. ranges and this is determined more by the flash point of the thinner and not the quantity. In order not to start a fight on here, let me say that this does not apply to every single painter that ever lived, just 95%. If is sounds like a smart ass statement, sorry you are offended. Most boat painters in boat yards are pretty good. Generally they stick to only one brand and know it well. As for the TECH SHEETS, PRODUCT DATA SHEETS or whatever the manufacturer chooses to call them, they are generally NOT shipped with the products. They can usually be obtained easily on the internet or call the manufacturer and they will gladly send it to you.
For fine finish painting on topsides and interiors
temperature can make a big difference. Paint just won't flow right if it's too cold, and it can take a long time to dry, so dust and bugs have more time to creep in. Bottom paint is not as critical, unless you're one of those serious racers that wants a glass smooth finish on the bottom. Like Rick in Toronto, we bottom paint here in BC if it's not below freezing or raining so hard it will wash the paint off. That's for conventional paint. If it's a two part epoxy or some other new and different product, the folks who make it usually have tech support through a contact number on their website. One part "epoxy" bottom paint is pretty much like a high quality oil base paint. I wouldn't use it in really cold weather, but over 40 F. should be OK. You do need to use paint that's compatible with what's there already, get all the loose stuff off, then make it as smooth as you want.
temperature can make a big difference. Paint just won't flow right if it's too cold, and it can take a long time to dry, so dust and bugs have more time to creep in. Bottom paint is not as critical, unless you're one of those serious racers that wants a glass smooth finish on the bottom. Like Rick in Toronto, we bottom paint here in BC if it's not below freezing or raining so hard it will wash the paint off. That's for conventional paint. If it's a two part epoxy or some other new and different product, the folks who make it usually have tech support through a contact number on their website. One part "epoxy" bottom paint is pretty much like a high quality oil base paint. I wouldn't use it in really cold weather, but over 40 F. should be OK. You do need to use paint that's compatible with what's there already, get all the loose stuff off, then make it as smooth as you want.
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