And an easy one, I hope. Is there any difference between a standard hardware store paint roller and its more expensive cousin found in marine chandleries? Am I going to do myself damage trying to save five, nay, three, bucks? Thanks for any insight. Drew
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Get the cheap one...
Get the cheapest one you can find. You won't be able to tell the difference.
Get the cheapest one you can find. You won't be able to tell the difference.
Fuzzy Rollers
Many cheap rollers have loose fibers that come off easily with the paint as you roll! Makes for a terrible finish! I now purchase more expensive rollers to avoid this. Regardless, I use duct tape or packing tape on a new roller to remove any loose fibers.
Many cheap rollers have loose fibers that come off easily with the paint as you roll! Makes for a terrible finish! I now purchase more expensive rollers to avoid this. Regardless, I use duct tape or packing tape on a new roller to remove any loose fibers.
Do you cheap out on the paint?
Cheap rollers are fine for one use only and if you are doing something like a quick coat of anti-fouling paint on the bottom. If you have spend big dollars on good paint that will be in a highly visible area go with a better quality roller and pay a buck or three more for it. Make sure that the roller is made for the type of paint that you are using. Some rollers are good for latex paints only.. The higher end rollers that you pick up at paint or hardware stores will likely do the job really well and are comparable with other rollers.
Cheap rollers are fine for one use only and if you are doing something like a quick coat of anti-fouling paint on the bottom. If you have spend big dollars on good paint that will be in a highly visible area go with a better quality roller and pay a buck or three more for it. Make sure that the roller is made for the type of paint that you are using. Some rollers are good for latex paints only.. The higher end rollers that you pick up at paint or hardware stores will likely do the job really well and are comparable with other rollers.
Are You Racing?
If you are a fanatic racer? Then get a better roller for a smoother finish. Otherwise, just be conservative. I, personally, never buy the cheapest thing. All I need is a roller to fall apart while painting the bottom. I buy an average, throw-away roller and have never had a problem. The roller handle is your own choice, though. If I do multiple layers of paint, I use a new roller for each coat.
If you are a fanatic racer? Then get a better roller for a smoother finish. Otherwise, just be conservative. I, personally, never buy the cheapest thing. All I need is a roller to fall apart while painting the bottom. I buy an average, throw-away roller and have never had a problem. The roller handle is your own choice, though. If I do multiple layers of paint, I use a new roller for each coat.
According to Sherwin Williams...
Cheap rollers are "use it once and toss it" rollers...more expensive rollers can be cleaned and used over and over. As for nap and fibers...both cheap and expensive rollers come in a variety of nap, for use on different surfaces and with different types of paint. If you're a painting contractor, it's far more cost effective to buy good rollers and take care of 'em...but while I only buy the best brushes for both oil and latex paints--and only the best paint...cleaning a roller I'm not likely to use again for a year or longer is more trouble than it's worth...I buy the cheap ones. I suspect any rollers you find at WM are also the cheap ones, for 2-3x the price you can buy 'em at Sherwin Williams. And btw...I've done a LOT of painting (including boat bottoms), varnishing and wallcover hanging in my life...the advice I've gotten from S-W has always been good.
Cheap rollers are "use it once and toss it" rollers...more expensive rollers can be cleaned and used over and over. As for nap and fibers...both cheap and expensive rollers come in a variety of nap, for use on different surfaces and with different types of paint. If you're a painting contractor, it's far more cost effective to buy good rollers and take care of 'em...but while I only buy the best brushes for both oil and latex paints--and only the best paint...cleaning a roller I'm not likely to use again for a year or longer is more trouble than it's worth...I buy the cheap ones. I suspect any rollers you find at WM are also the cheap ones, for 2-3x the price you can buy 'em at Sherwin Williams. And btw...I've done a LOT of painting (including boat bottoms), varnishing and wallcover hanging in my life...the advice I've gotten from S-W has always been good.
bottom paint
Hello, Some bottom paints contain solvents and other nasty chemicals that will dissolve a basic roller. I didn't know that last year when I pained the swing keel of my Catalina 22. Fortunately the keel is small. By the time I was done the roller just about disintegrated. This year I have to paint the bottom of my Newport 28, which is much bigger. I spend the extra bucks for the marine rollers, which are supposed to work with bottom paint. I'll let you know how it turns out. Barry
Hello, Some bottom paints contain solvents and other nasty chemicals that will dissolve a basic roller. I didn't know that last year when I pained the swing keel of my Catalina 22. Fortunately the keel is small. By the time I was done the roller just about disintegrated. This year I have to paint the bottom of my Newport 28, which is much bigger. I spend the extra bucks for the marine rollers, which are supposed to work with bottom paint. I'll let you know how it turns out. Barry
Mohair
Is the only logical answer. You want to buy a roller skin that will not be eaten up, will not leave particals on your bottom and one that will put the paint on very thin, mohair is very thin nap. Your choice. Best of luck
Is the only logical answer. You want to buy a roller skin that will not be eaten up, will not leave particals on your bottom and one that will put the paint on very thin, mohair is very thin nap. Your choice. Best of luck
Rollers
I buy cheap quarter-inch nap rollers ($2-$3 ea)at K-Mart and use them once to put on a coat of ablative bottom paint. They work great, never had a problem with one. Throw-away rollers and paint pan inserts are great inventions... "Marine grade" rollers don't make sense to me. I don't want to clean a roller or own one any longer than it takes to put a coat of paint on the bottom of my boat.
I buy cheap quarter-inch nap rollers ($2-$3 ea)at K-Mart and use them once to put on a coat of ablative bottom paint. They work great, never had a problem with one. Throw-away rollers and paint pan inserts are great inventions... "Marine grade" rollers don't make sense to me. I don't want to clean a roller or own one any longer than it takes to put a coat of paint on the bottom of my boat.
Almost embarassed to say what I do
I use the same roller cover and touch-up brush that I've used for the last 5 years to apply VC17. I got the brush and roller from my dad who had used it for a few years prior to that. I never clean them, I simply put the pan, brush and roller w/ cover into a plastic grocery bag and put them on a shelf. The next year when I go to use it, it's stiff at first, but it softens up once I roll it in the pan a little. I've got a new boat now and plan on using the same roller cover and touch-up brush on that one too.
I use the same roller cover and touch-up brush that I've used for the last 5 years to apply VC17. I got the brush and roller from my dad who had used it for a few years prior to that. I never clean them, I simply put the pan, brush and roller w/ cover into a plastic grocery bag and put them on a shelf. The next year when I go to use it, it's stiff at first, but it softens up once I roll it in the pan a little. I've got a new boat now and plan on using the same roller cover and touch-up brush on that one too.
Mohair
SYLLABICATION: mo·hair PRONUNCIATION: mhâr NOUN: 1. The long silky hair of the Angora goat. 2. Fabric made with yarn from this hair.
SYLLABICATION: mo·hair PRONUNCIATION: mhâr NOUN: 1. The long silky hair of the Angora goat. 2. Fabric made with yarn from this hair.
Rollers
I once had a conversation with the chief chemist of an anti-fouling paint maker. He said that all antifoulings are always soluble in their thinners no matter how long it is since last used. I just put the roller and brushes into a plastic bag and forget them till next year. Then, the night before the job, I pour a little thinners into the bag and the next morning they are ready to go. Enables me always to use my favourite roller. Probably will not work for water based antifoulings though.
I once had a conversation with the chief chemist of an anti-fouling paint maker. He said that all antifoulings are always soluble in their thinners no matter how long it is since last used. I just put the roller and brushes into a plastic bag and forget them till next year. Then, the night before the job, I pour a little thinners into the bag and the next morning they are ready to go. Enables me always to use my favourite roller. Probably will not work for water based antifoulings though.
Roller lint particle pre-removal
Whatever roller cover you decide to buy, and for whatever use, I reccomend rinsing the roller cover under a warm faucet with a stiff brush to remove 99% of the loose lint left over from manufacture. Rub the roller cover briskly with a stiff brush under the running water. If your base is water, just damp dry it. If your base will be oil do it a day before so it has a chance to dry out. Great results...no lint. The best general purpose roller cover is Lowe's Purdy Dralon White Dove, about $3. Pre rinsed by user, it is excellent and disposable at that price. Jim
Whatever roller cover you decide to buy, and for whatever use, I reccomend rinsing the roller cover under a warm faucet with a stiff brush to remove 99% of the loose lint left over from manufacture. Rub the roller cover briskly with a stiff brush under the running water. If your base is water, just damp dry it. If your base will be oil do it a day before so it has a chance to dry out. Great results...no lint. The best general purpose roller cover is Lowe's Purdy Dralon White Dove, about $3. Pre rinsed by user, it is excellent and disposable at that price. Jim
If.........
...you care about how the finish comes out, then spray and wet sand the bottom. That's what we do to get a clean very smooth finish. Makes a huge difference in sailing performance. If you want to roll it, use the small rollers that are used for varnished high gloss finishes. They will give you the best rolled finish possible. You should still rub it out when it's dry. Everything else is just some poor paint slopped on the bottom and launch (no way to love your boat!!)
...you care about how the finish comes out, then spray and wet sand the bottom. That's what we do to get a clean very smooth finish. Makes a huge difference in sailing performance. If you want to roll it, use the small rollers that are used for varnished high gloss finishes. They will give you the best rolled finish possible. You should still rub it out when it's dry. Everything else is just some poor paint slopped on the bottom and launch (no way to love your boat!!)
Wow!
This is quite a response! Thanks to all for the input. Just goes to show nothing about sailboats is simple!
This is quite a response! Thanks to all for the input. Just goes to show nothing about sailboats is simple!
Barry wins
It may not matter much when you are painting the bottom, but when you are going for that glossy 'wet' look on the topsides, you need a roller that will stand up to a variety of special solvents and thinners. On the cd from Interlux about the new Perfection paint, they specify a high-density, solvent-resistant closed cell foam roller, preferrably with a plastic insert. Its the same roll-and-tip method as the one part polyurethanes in use. They recommend washing the roller in solvent 2333N just for starters, so that would pretty much explain how marine rollers are different from some others you might pick up.
It may not matter much when you are painting the bottom, but when you are going for that glossy 'wet' look on the topsides, you need a roller that will stand up to a variety of special solvents and thinners. On the cd from Interlux about the new Perfection paint, they specify a high-density, solvent-resistant closed cell foam roller, preferrably with a plastic insert. Its the same roll-and-tip method as the one part polyurethanes in use. They recommend washing the roller in solvent 2333N just for starters, so that would pretty much explain how marine rollers are different from some others you might pick up.
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