Paint or not to paint.

RussC · Jan 25, 2016

When I went looking for my last boat, one of the criteria was that it NOT have ever been painted. it just becomes a constant maintenance battle, and once it's painted you can't ever go back. I trailer sail in fresh water only, so ymmv.

twodzusfittings · Jan 25, 2016

I recommend you not paint the Freeboard unless you use Awlgrip products and do all the prep work according to their instructions. Expensive way to go, but incredibly beautiful when finished. My boat is an 84 and this year while it was out of the water to bottom paint, I took the time to wash down the sides, clean of all wax and any buildup. I then used 3M products and a buffer tool. First I compounded the boat to remove all marks and created an evenly clean surface. I then used 3M cleaner wax, a 2'x2' section at a time, keeping it moist with a spray bottle with distilled water while I worked it. Then towel dried and polished buffed with a lambswool mop on the buffer. Finally when I was happy with the outcome, I used 3M paste wax, applied with a terry cloth pad and then buffed that out with a clean lambswool buffer mop. Came out so nice. Look at the picture and see the difference on the Freeboard. The darker area is where the cleaner wax product was used, bringing out the deep cream color. I tried the same application method using Collinite products. Was not so impressed.

rgranger · Jan 25, 2016

This was done roll and tip with a very expensive marine urethane. I sold it two seasons after these shots were taken and she was still looking great. I have also had okay results using oil based rustoleum (roll & tip). The brown bottom in these pics is rustoleum. I like to rustoleum on the bottom because I beach a lot and scratch up my bottom. I can always find a good color match, even years later, with rustoleum. The biggest part of the process is not what paint you use but the prep work. You will need to strip off all of the wax BEFORE YOU SAND... and then fill in gouges and scratches... and then SAND... and then clean again. Then make sure you paint on a day that has the recommended temperature and humidity.

DianaOfBurlington · Jan 25, 2016

Problem with Awlgrip is that it's not easy to patch, Neither are Perfection or Brightside; but at least they're cheaper and easier to apply. I did my hull using Primekote (2-part epoxy primer/barrier-coat for Perfection) and then Brightside over it. It came out really well, though I have a few more spots to redo come spring. I would recommend this scheme to anyone on a budget.

I would not attempt Awlgrip except in a professional-quality setting (indoors, dust-free, efficient spray equipment, expertise). The beauty of Brightside, and to a lesser extent, Perfection, is that they are easily applied by the boatyard amateur by rolling and tipping.

There is another Awlgrip-like product which I forget the name of but it's not recommended because it's even less repairable than Awlgrip.

One caveat to Awkgrip-- you CANNOT buff it with compound. I would use nothing stronger than PTEF products on it. Once you abrade into the finish, it will become porous and gray, and then you'll need to chemically strip (most of) it off and redo it. This has happened many times to unsuspecting owners (the ilk I refer to as 'boat polishers', since that's all the maintenance work they ever do to their boats).

I posted some details about this on my blog.
http://dianaofburlington.blogspot.com/2014/11/interlux-brightside.html

shemandr · Jan 25, 2016

I had the topsides of my Ranger 29 done with Emron by a professional. It looked great but scratched almost without touching anything. The yard said at least it can be repaired. I never learned whether it was the product or the application that was responsible for the scratching. I was sorry I spent the money on it.
Also choose the color carefully. Blue and red gelcoat fade. From what I've seen paint is subject to fading too.

Kermit · Jan 25, 2016

RussC said:
...once it's painted you can't ever go back.

Especially if you paint it black.

RussC · Jan 25, 2016

Kermit said:
Especially if you paint it black.

I see a red door and I want it painted black

sailorladyliz · Jan 25, 2016

I had my boat hauled for a bottom paint job recently and while on the stands I had the yard do a buffing and wax test spot and I was so impressed I went with it on the entire topsides of the boat. When my hubby saw the boat he was amazed, he had thought it was white... not so. I was very happy with the outcome. Just an idea to try before paint.

inarathree · Jan 25, 2016

MaineSail has a great document here on how to wet sand, buff, and polish. It works.

Stu Jackson · Jan 25, 2016

inarathree said:
MaineSail has a great document here on how to wet sand, buff, and polish. It works.

Here: http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266/

Crazy Dave Condon · Jan 26, 2016

GA;

Why not post photos of your hull on this post. The old saying is a picture is worth a thousand words. I found in most boats if you first cleaned and then compounded the hull with 3M Finese It using the paste, not the liquid, with a slow speed buffer so not to burn the gel coat usually did the trick. Then wash and apply wax. As a final coating, I used Melges pure wax. As for the buffer, never hold it in one place either but merely going back and forth constantly. Again we do not know the condition of your hull but with photos you may get some more definite suggestions.

Sailorjohnca · Feb 13, 2016

I did two 24 ft boats with bright side using tip and roll, came out great and the paint seemed pretty tough. However it's a major job involving many hours of sending and prep work and up to six coats of paint. If you can buff it then that's the better option.