Looking for some advise on installing and selecting a packless sealing system for my Hunter 34. I'm getting a little tired of the current wet system and would like some advise on installing and selecting the right packless system. Any help would be appreciated.
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Dripless Packing Compound
Jim, About 6 seasons ago, I had the same concerns and went with the Dripless Compound System that is available at West Marine, Etc. It's a little pricy (about $55 or $60) but I felt the results were worth it. It's just a small plastic 'jar' about the size of a 35mm film case. It has a green crumbly putty compound with some teflon in it. The process is to remove all of the old Flax packing rings (Usually 3) and then start by putting in one new Flax Packing ring, followed by an equivelent size 'ring' of the green dripless coumpound, followed by another new Flax Packing ring. Then just put in the packing gland plastic ring (a smooth bearing surface for the packing nut) and then the packing nut and tighten it down hand tight followed by about 1/4 turn with a packing nut wrench. If you put in too much green putty coumpound, you will have trouble getting the packing nut threads tp engage. (Been thete - Done that). After wards try rotating the shaft at the coupling by hand (with shift in neutral) and you should be able to turn it ok. If too loose, retighten the packing nut a little more and if too tight just loosen the packing nut a little. When satisfied, place the 'locking wire' on the nut to prevent it from backing out on normal use. I was very happy with the results an run a dry bilge (until I do something dumb and spill some fluids into it). I redid the whole packing again at the start of last season with the same good results.
Jim, About 6 seasons ago, I had the same concerns and went with the Dripless Compound System that is available at West Marine, Etc. It's a little pricy (about $55 or $60) but I felt the results were worth it. It's just a small plastic 'jar' about the size of a 35mm film case. It has a green crumbly putty compound with some teflon in it. The process is to remove all of the old Flax packing rings (Usually 3) and then start by putting in one new Flax Packing ring, followed by an equivelent size 'ring' of the green dripless coumpound, followed by another new Flax Packing ring. Then just put in the packing gland plastic ring (a smooth bearing surface for the packing nut) and then the packing nut and tighten it down hand tight followed by about 1/4 turn with a packing nut wrench. If you put in too much green putty coumpound, you will have trouble getting the packing nut threads tp engage. (Been thete - Done that). After wards try rotating the shaft at the coupling by hand (with shift in neutral) and you should be able to turn it ok. If too loose, retighten the packing nut a little more and if too tight just loosen the packing nut a little. When satisfied, place the 'locking wire' on the nut to prevent it from backing out on normal use. I was very happy with the results an run a dry bilge (until I do something dumb and spill some fluids into it). I redid the whole packing again at the start of last season with the same good results.
Repacking
I will be replacing the shaft packing this spring on my H34 but don't intend to go to a drip-less system as yet. Does anyone have experience with the teflon impregnetted packing materials? Does anyone recall what size packing is used on the H34 (one inch diameter shaft)? S/V Intrepid H34 #113
I will be replacing the shaft packing this spring on my H34 but don't intend to go to a drip-less system as yet. Does anyone have experience with the teflon impregnetted packing materials? Does anyone recall what size packing is used on the H34 (one inch diameter shaft)? S/V Intrepid H34 #113
3/16" Packing
I use the teflon stuff and it works great. The hardest part is removing the old stuff
I use the teflon stuff and it works great. The hardest part is removing the old stuff
I've Had the Same Sucess .......................
............. using a teflon plastic packing. No dripping, not one. Don't get conned into spending $100's of dollars on a mechanical shaft seal. They work well until they fail of old age and when they fail, the results are disasterous. Having seen them fail on industrial pumps, I would never have one in my boat. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
............. using a teflon plastic packing. No dripping, not one. Don't get conned into spending $100's of dollars on a mechanical shaft seal. They work well until they fail of old age and when they fail, the results are disasterous. Having seen them fail on industrial pumps, I would never have one in my boat. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
3.16 not sure
More like 3/8ths. Check with the yard for 1-inch shafts. To remove the old packing, spray some WD-40 and let sit an hour. Come back and drill at 2 o'clock as you look at the thing, and rotate one flat each time. This will soften it up greatly to pick out with dental pic.
More like 3/8ths. Check with the yard for 1-inch shafts. To remove the old packing, spray some WD-40 and let sit an hour. Come back and drill at 2 o'clock as you look at the thing, and rotate one flat each time. This will soften it up greatly to pick out with dental pic.
Daryll, Ralph, Bill...
Thanks for the packing gland info. Now all I need to do is to wait for it to warm up enough to want to spend a couple of hours getting claustrophobia in the aft cabin while lying on my stomach trying to squeeze my arms into the narrow opening above the shaft and seal to pick out the old stuff and fit in the new packing! S/V Intrepid H34 #113
Thanks for the packing gland info. Now all I need to do is to wait for it to warm up enough to want to spend a couple of hours getting claustrophobia in the aft cabin while lying on my stomach trying to squeeze my arms into the narrow opening above the shaft and seal to pick out the old stuff and fit in the new packing! S/V Intrepid H34 #113
Done once and for all
I just had it with all the packing and wet bilge. i just bit the bullet and put in a PSS dripless system from Tidewated. The cost was about $600.00 to do the job. Mike was great to work with . I had a quick turn around on the job and the interior was kept spotless during the work. Looking forward to a dry bilge this spring/summer. it is not for all however ,I had it with all the packing and M&R year after year.
I just had it with all the packing and wet bilge. i just bit the bullet and put in a PSS dripless system from Tidewated. The cost was about $600.00 to do the job. Mike was great to work with . I had a quick turn around on the job and the interior was kept spotless during the work. Looking forward to a dry bilge this spring/summer. it is not for all however ,I had it with all the packing and M&R year after year.
PSS works great.
I had one on my last boat. If you have a bilge drain problem they really solve that. You must remeber to burp them at launch every year. My new h-36 does not have this problem so I see no need to add one. Does any one have a good record on how hours of motoring you can do before you repack a standard stuffing box?
I had one on my last boat. If you have a bilge drain problem they really solve that. You must remeber to burp them at launch every year. My new h-36 does not have this problem so I see no need to add one. Does any one have a good record on how hours of motoring you can do before you repack a standard stuffing box?
PSS is Overpriced TRASH!
Anyone who has had one fail or saw one fail won't get one ever again. Installing one requires removing the engine coupling and frequently requires shaft and rudder. Besides being overpriced they may end up sinking your boat. The old stuffing box will last 50 or 100 years with minor attention. The new packing material keeps then dry. There is not one on myboat because I don't have money to waste
Anyone who has had one fail or saw one fail won't get one ever again. Installing one requires removing the engine coupling and frequently requires shaft and rudder. Besides being overpriced they may end up sinking your boat. The old stuffing box will last 50 or 100 years with minor attention. The new packing material keeps then dry. There is not one on myboat because I don't have money to waste
Sorry Guy's, I'm with Daryl on this one.
All of that has happened to me on my boat. But I'm sure the newest versions are improved.
All of that has happened to me on my boat. But I'm sure the newest versions are improved.
No More Packless for Me
I like my "old fashioned" rubber type shaft packing gland. I can adjust it, never have to worry about winter freezing, and can see whats going on if a problem arises . Its the epitome of simplicity . .tighten the gland nuts as needed and check on the clamps. Thats it. Once every 5-6 years you may want to replace the packing. Fredd
I like my "old fashioned" rubber type shaft packing gland. I can adjust it, never have to worry about winter freezing, and can see whats going on if a problem arises . Its the epitome of simplicity . .tighten the gland nuts as needed and check on the clamps. Thats it. Once every 5-6 years you may want to replace the packing. Fredd
I Like The Dripless Packing
I have had the PSS Shaft Seal on the last two boats, an H34 and a P42 (a total of nine years and more than a 1000 hours of motoring). I also put on the Shaft saver at the same time. I know that the Shaft Seal could come apart, but so can the conventional packing system. In both cases they are held onto the trunk by stainless clamps and in all cases the packing end is held onto the bellows with more clamps. The point is that the parts that can fail on a Shaft Seal are the exact ones that can fail with a conventional packing system. Finally, just like the packing nut, the seal requires some maintenance. You need to check the clamps, make sure that there is sufficient pressure on the collar to seal, and make sure the collar is tight. Doing those things should ensure the safety of the boat, whether a shaft seal or a packing nut.
I have had the PSS Shaft Seal on the last two boats, an H34 and a P42 (a total of nine years and more than a 1000 hours of motoring). I also put on the Shaft saver at the same time. I know that the Shaft Seal could come apart, but so can the conventional packing system. In both cases they are held onto the trunk by stainless clamps and in all cases the packing end is held onto the bellows with more clamps. The point is that the parts that can fail on a Shaft Seal are the exact ones that can fail with a conventional packing system. Finally, just like the packing nut, the seal requires some maintenance. You need to check the clamps, make sure that there is sufficient pressure on the collar to seal, and make sure the collar is tight. Doing those things should ensure the safety of the boat, whether a shaft seal or a packing nut.
saft saver
I have a 37.5 and have been wondering about the saft saver, will it reduce vibration? I want to reduce noise and vibration is this the way to go or should I look at so other product?
I have a 37.5 and have been wondering about the saft saver, will it reduce vibration? I want to reduce noise and vibration is this the way to go or should I look at so other product?
I Am A Fan Of The Shaft Saver
I think the shaft saver cuts down the noise coming from the prop. It is very precisely made but I don't know that it will cut down vibration. I had two reasons for installing a shaft saver. The main reason was to protect the transmission if the prop were to get fouled. The second is that even with a proper engine to prop shaft alignment, the engine moves around as the boat rolls around and there are temporary mis-alignments. It has to be better for the transmission bearings. As far as I am concerned, it is cheap insurance. Besides, buy it through HOF and help support this great web site.
I think the shaft saver cuts down the noise coming from the prop. It is very precisely made but I don't know that it will cut down vibration. I had two reasons for installing a shaft saver. The main reason was to protect the transmission if the prop were to get fouled. The second is that even with a proper engine to prop shaft alignment, the engine moves around as the boat rolls around and there are temporary mis-alignments. It has to be better for the transmission bearings. As far as I am concerned, it is cheap insurance. Besides, buy it through HOF and help support this great web site.
PSS IS THE WAY TO GO
I've had one on my first hunter 35.5 for 8 years and now on my 426ds no water inside. I have no water in my boat at all. ITS GREAT!!!!
I've had one on my first hunter 35.5 for 8 years and now on my 426ds no water inside. I have no water in my boat at all. ITS GREAT!!!!
Dripless shaft Seal
Recenently changed to PSS dripless shaft seal on our '88 Legend and couldn't be more pleased with results. First time I have ever had a dry engine bilge.
Recenently changed to PSS dripless shaft seal on our '88 Legend and couldn't be more pleased with results. First time I have ever had a dry engine bilge.
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