The packing gland of our 1983 H27 is leaking at the rate of a drop a second with the engine off. The bronze packing nut, the lock nut and the threads on the box have heavy green corrosion and build up. I have been wire brushing the threads and using penetration oil on the stuffing box nuts. My question is now thatitis time to apply force with a pipe wrench and an adjustable wrenc to loosen the locknut is there a danger of cracking the packing nut. I'm looking perhaps upward of 50 pounds of torque. The boat is in the water and I would prefer not to pull it until next year. What would be your recommendation. Thanks.
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Another BOX ?
Benny Wrench them apart. No problem doing it in the water. Search the archives (stuffing box, packing gland, etc.). We've all been there before. You sound like you know what you're doing. Rather than considering the foot pounds of torque, try a few gentle hammer (mallet) taps first. Go for it. Stu PS Try the link for more details, but it sounds like you know this already
Benny Wrench them apart. No problem doing it in the water. Search the archives (stuffing box, packing gland, etc.). We've all been there before. You sound like you know what you're doing. Rather than considering the foot pounds of torque, try a few gentle hammer (mallet) taps first. Go for it. Stu PS Try the link for more details, but it sounds like you know this already
Whoa!
Before you start exerting pressure and hammering things, consider this... The big nut and the thin nut are counterset. The little one is tightened against the big one once the big one is set to the desirable point. So, to begin your process simply loosen the big nut slightly to free up the tension. Then back down on the thin nut and you'll have room to tighten down the big one by, say, four or five "flats" or flat sides of the nut. Then tighten the little nut against the big one.
Before you start exerting pressure and hammering things, consider this... The big nut and the thin nut are counterset. The little one is tightened against the big one once the big one is set to the desirable point. So, to begin your process simply loosen the big nut slightly to free up the tension. Then back down on the thin nut and you'll have room to tighten down the big one by, say, four or five "flats" or flat sides of the nut. Then tighten the little nut against the big one.
Benny, you may not need to replace the ...
material in your stuffing box. The drip rate may stop (prop shaft at rest) by tightening the box nut a quarter turn. I would try that first before replacing the flax packing material. I used two large pipe wrenches (that's all I had in my tool box). I first squirted Liquid Wrench on the nut threads, tapped on all the lock nut flats with a metal hammer, squirted again, then let it set for an hour. It broke right loose. Our boat was on the hard when I repacked our stuffing box. Many do it while in the water. See if tightening the box will slow the drip rate, then repack the next time you haul the boat to redo the bottom. A drop a second is not a big deal so long as your automatic bilge pump is working. Terry
material in your stuffing box. The drip rate may stop (prop shaft at rest) by tightening the box nut a quarter turn. I would try that first before replacing the flax packing material. I used two large pipe wrenches (that's all I had in my tool box). I first squirted Liquid Wrench on the nut threads, tapped on all the lock nut flats with a metal hammer, squirted again, then let it set for an hour. It broke right loose. Our boat was on the hard when I repacked our stuffing box. Many do it while in the water. See if tightening the box will slow the drip rate, then repack the next time you haul the boat to redo the bottom. A drop a second is not a big deal so long as your automatic bilge pump is working. Terry
Gland
Hello Benny, Not knowing completely the situation you are looking at, I would think that there are is some scenarios that could possibly munch the packing gland. The packing nut/gland is made of bronze and it is a soft metal that could come under stress and fail if the pressure exceeds its capability. Once the jam nut has been loosened you should have the ability of loosening or tightening the main nut. I would be very careful that when you tighten the nut you do not over tighten it causing no lubrication of the packing material. This will cause heat, eventual shaft damage and destruction of the packing material. You may want to keep in mind that the packing material is not designed for multiple years of flawless use. Many boat owners adjust and replace packing material on yearly intervals. As the shaft begins to score at the packing gland area it gets more and more difficult to minimize the leaking. If it was myself and I was thinking that the gland could fail in my hands, I would do it out of the water. Good luck. Kevin
Hello Benny, Not knowing completely the situation you are looking at, I would think that there are is some scenarios that could possibly munch the packing gland. The packing nut/gland is made of bronze and it is a soft metal that could come under stress and fail if the pressure exceeds its capability. Once the jam nut has been loosened you should have the ability of loosening or tightening the main nut. I would be very careful that when you tighten the nut you do not over tighten it causing no lubrication of the packing material. This will cause heat, eventual shaft damage and destruction of the packing material. You may want to keep in mind that the packing material is not designed for multiple years of flawless use. Many boat owners adjust and replace packing material on yearly intervals. As the shaft begins to score at the packing gland area it gets more and more difficult to minimize the leaking. If it was myself and I was thinking that the gland could fail in my hands, I would do it out of the water. Good luck. Kevin
My 2 cents worth
The bilge in my boat will also fill up after I shut down the engine. But I get my grease gun out and pump a fresh load of it into the bearing. This stops the leak and I can switch my bilge pump off for a week or more. Instead of tightening the cutlass bearing you might try pumping some grease into it, if possible.
The bilge in my boat will also fill up after I shut down the engine. But I get my grease gun out and pump a fresh load of it into the bearing. This stops the leak and I can switch my bilge pump off for a week or more. Instead of tightening the cutlass bearing you might try pumping some grease into it, if possible.
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