My flax is hard as fiberglass, suggesting that it ought to be removed. I've tried the dentist pick with no results, perhaps because the temperature is in the 20s and 30s here in Virginia. Any merit to heating up the shaft and flax with a hairdryer to soften it up? Any other ideas? Thanks.
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fred miller
The Right Tool
Bill; I'm up the pike from you a bit on the Jersey Coast. Its cold here too and I have all but given up working on my 35.5 until Spring other than the parts I stored in my barn. Anyway, I know what you are talking about, but would be very circumspect about applying any heat. The flax is flammable and you could do some damage to surrrounding parts or worse yet start a fire. Not to worry though, Hamilton Marine Supply in Searsport, Me. I think has a tool to remove old packing. They cater to commercial fishing boats and know a lot about everthing the pleasure boat supply stores can't tell you. Give 'em a call. Good Luck Fred M s/v M Squared
Bill; I'm up the pike from you a bit on the Jersey Coast. Its cold here too and I have all but given up working on my 35.5 until Spring other than the parts I stored in my barn. Anyway, I know what you are talking about, but would be very circumspect about applying any heat. The flax is flammable and you could do some damage to surrrounding parts or worse yet start a fire. Not to worry though, Hamilton Marine Supply in Searsport, Me. I think has a tool to remove old packing. They cater to commercial fishing boats and know a lot about everthing the pleasure boat supply stores can't tell you. Give 'em a call. Good Luck Fred M s/v M Squared
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Jack
What Model Boat?
Last year I wanted to replace my flax with dripless, a 28.5,and the marine repair shop complained about the same thing. Not wanting to be delyed any further I just told them to launch the boat. Later, I found out on this site that there is a nylon/plastic washer between the compression nut and the flax. This may be what you are experiencing and not hardened flax. Can anbody else verify this since I still would like to replace my flax? How was this washer removed?
Last year I wanted to replace my flax with dripless, a 28.5,and the marine repair shop complained about the same thing. Not wanting to be delyed any further I just told them to launch the boat. Later, I found out on this site that there is a nylon/plastic washer between the compression nut and the flax. This may be what you are experiencing and not hardened flax. Can anbody else verify this since I still would like to replace my flax? How was this washer removed?
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Dick Carey
Flax Packing Extraction
There is a plastic disc/washer behind the packing nut that in turn presses on the flax rings. I have used the Flax Packing Extraction Tool available from West Mrine, Boat/US, etc. You can use the end of the tool to grab the end of the plastic ring, but with difficulty. I finally loosened the rear part of the packing gland/housing and wiggled it forward a little, then back to where it was. The plastic ring came forward with everything else and the lagged behind when I moved the gland back to where it was. This let me get a hold of it and move it further forward. Then the tool can grab the flax rings (usually 3 rings) and remove them. I then put in TWO new flax rings and the dripless green compound inbetween the 2 flax rings in place of the middle flax ring. Then put the plastic ring back and reinstalle the packing nut and lock it in place with the wires attached to the packing nut. No drips, no heating. It works great. I think the extraction tool was about $10 or $15. The "Green" Dripless Coumpound was about $55 though. Dick Carey S/V Puffin 1990 H-33.5
There is a plastic disc/washer behind the packing nut that in turn presses on the flax rings. I have used the Flax Packing Extraction Tool available from West Mrine, Boat/US, etc. You can use the end of the tool to grab the end of the plastic ring, but with difficulty. I finally loosened the rear part of the packing gland/housing and wiggled it forward a little, then back to where it was. The plastic ring came forward with everything else and the lagged behind when I moved the gland back to where it was. This let me get a hold of it and move it further forward. Then the tool can grab the flax rings (usually 3 rings) and remove them. I then put in TWO new flax rings and the dripless green compound inbetween the 2 flax rings in place of the middle flax ring. Then put the plastic ring back and reinstalle the packing nut and lock it in place with the wires attached to the packing nut. No drips, no heating. It works great. I think the extraction tool was about $10 or $15. The "Green" Dripless Coumpound was about $55 though. Dick Carey S/V Puffin 1990 H-33.5
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Bill O'Donovan
Thanks
Jack, it's a 29.5 from 1995 with a 1-inch shaft. Good ideas one and all. If it ever stops snowing I'll get down there and pick at the washer. Thanks.
Jack, it's a 29.5 from 1995 with a 1-inch shaft. Good ideas one and all. If it ever stops snowing I'll get down there and pick at the washer. Thanks.
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Bill O'Donovan
Here's what happened
It turned out to be a worse-case scenario in which the packing hadn't been changed for three years, during which I over-tightened the nut from time to time. The result was hard as walnut. So far, I've picked out three of the four rings. Tools required: Flax Puller (Boat US item 393080) Flax Pick (Boat US item 282111) Thin screwdriver to pick with more vigor Needle nose pliers to grab the debris Appropriate braided flax or teflon flax My tactic was to pick away at one section of each roll, and then use the screwdriver to gently unpeel the thing. Lessons Learned: (1) Replace yearly, (2) Don't tighten down too much during the season.
It turned out to be a worse-case scenario in which the packing hadn't been changed for three years, during which I over-tightened the nut from time to time. The result was hard as walnut. So far, I've picked out three of the four rings. Tools required: Flax Puller (Boat US item 393080) Flax Pick (Boat US item 282111) Thin screwdriver to pick with more vigor Needle nose pliers to grab the debris Appropriate braided flax or teflon flax My tactic was to pick away at one section of each roll, and then use the screwdriver to gently unpeel the thing. Lessons Learned: (1) Replace yearly, (2) Don't tighten down too much during the season.
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Bill O'Donovan
Epilogue
Me again. The fourth and final ring was packed harder because it was at the worst point of compression. I wound up using a 1/8-inch bit on a regular electric drill. I used low speed and aimed 45 degrees at 3 o'clock while rotating the housing as I drilled. You'll know you're done when the brass housing flops around like a dying fish. Then used a shot of compressed air to blow out all the residual flax. In retrospect, I should have used the drill early on to save a lot of time. The trick is to avoid letting the drill beat up the brass threads or the shaft.
Me again. The fourth and final ring was packed harder because it was at the worst point of compression. I wound up using a 1/8-inch bit on a regular electric drill. I used low speed and aimed 45 degrees at 3 o'clock while rotating the housing as I drilled. You'll know you're done when the brass housing flops around like a dying fish. Then used a shot of compressed air to blow out all the residual flax. In retrospect, I should have used the drill early on to save a lot of time. The trick is to avoid letting the drill beat up the brass threads or the shaft.
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