P303 Toilet fix/repair

Jun 8, 2015
6
Pearson P303 Middle River MD
What holds the 4 nuts that secure the toilet?

How can I access those nuts?

Has anyone replaced the original Groco with a Jabsco 29120?
 
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Dec 2, 1997
8,946
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What holds the 4 nuts that secure the toilet?
How can I access those nuts?
Has anyone replaced the original Groco with a Jabsco 29120?
Stu gave the correct answer to your first question. What model is your Groco toilet?

Groco toilets are among the most durable reliable manual toilets...Why do you want to replace it with a "disposable" make/model?
 
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Jun 8, 2015
6
Pearson P303 Middle River MD
Peggie, The Groco is Model HF.

The rebuild kit lists 26 parts. That is 26 opportunities to screw-up the rebuild!

I figure that replacing the entire toilet is easier. I don't want to spend the entire spring fighting with a toilet.
 
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Dec 2, 1997
8,946
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The rebuild kit lists 26 parts. That is 26 opportunities to screw-up the rebuild!

Not if you follow the directions. http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec1/pdfs/HF-PUMP-RBLD.pdf

If you can't do that, why don't you just replace the toilet pump with a new HF pump? Price for just the pump is a bit higher than the complete Jabsco toilet, but you won't have to replace the Groco every couple of years, so it'll cost you a lot less in the long run.No need to remove the whole toilet, just remove the pump from the base--which only requires removing 4 bolts and 2 hoses...replace it with the new pump, replace the 4 bolts and 2 hoses...and you're done. That will require removing and replacing 7 parts, but I think you can handle that many...and that's actually easier than swapping it for the Jabsco, 'cuz the Jabsco base won't fit the Groco mounting bolt holes, so you'll have at least 1 or 2 holes to fill and holes to drill.

Rebuild the old one without putting yourself under pressure to get everything right the first time, and keep it on hand as a spare.
 
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Sep 16, 2014
21
Pearson P303 Titusville
Don, I agree with the other opinions, but to answer your original question -- the PO of our boat replaced the whole toilet just as you were wondering. Let me know if you wanted to know anything specific about the replacement.
 
Feb 16, 2016
4
Pearson 1984 Triton 27 New Orleans
just remember to seal the holes if you got to another toilet base pattern!

I cut a 4" clear screw in deck plate into the side of my toilet platform so I could access the underside of the toilet pedestal area when I ran new plumbing. It allowed for easier manipulation of the hoses and wiring that pass underneath the bathroom pan
 
Apr 2, 2011
185
Catalina 27 Niceville, FL
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Dec 2, 1997
8,946
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All manual toilets should have a complete rebuild kit installed at least every 5-6 years...a new joker valve annually. You wouldn't replace just one spark plug at a time in your car's engine...it makes no more sense to replace just one part at a time in a marine toilet. All the parts in a manual toilet pump wear with use, wear faster if the pump isn't kept VERY well lubricated. If one part in it has worn enough to fail, the rest have to be seriously worn...and the worse they're worn, the more impact that has on the efficiency and performance of the pump. Replacing parts one at a time means also mean you have to take the pump apart each time to do it...and you may only be guessing at which part--or how many parts--it needs, so even though the toilet may be working again, it won't be anywhere near factory specs. So if the toilet is at least 5 years old and/or you don't know when or even IF it's ever been rebuilt, as long as you have to take the pump apart, bite the bullet and do the WHOLE job. You'll be amazed at how much better your toilet will work than it will with only one new part and the rest worn out.
As for WHY the joker valve should be replaced annually...most boat owner think it has only one function: to block backflow. They don't know that it's the single MOST important part in a manual toilet pump because they don't actually know how a manual toilet pump works:
On the upstroke of the piston, a vacuum is created in the area beneath the piston. This causes the joker valve to close tightly, and the flapper valve beneath the pump to open, allowing some of the contents of the toilet bowl to be drawn into the bottom half of the pump. Then, on the down stroke of the piston, the flapper valve is slammed shut, and the effluent is forced out of the bottom of the pump, through the joker valve, and off down the line. But when the joker valve becomes worn and/or there's a buildup of sea water minerals on it, it can no longer seal tightly on the upstroke of the piston...less vacuum is generated when you pump it. And as it becomes more worn, less and less vacuum, making the toilet less and less efficient till finally it can't move anything out of the bowl any more, and you'll be here trying to find out why and usually getting the wrong answer.
 
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