I need help and advice as to how to remove oxidation from my boat. I have tried all kinds of rubbing compounds. I was even told to try 2000 grit wet sand paper. Has anyone tried the sand paper route and if so what was the results.
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H
Harley Oday23
wet sanding
I have wet sanded my boat with 1500 wet or dry sand paper then waxed and buffed it. Just don't over do it,you are using sand paper.
I have wet sanded my boat with 1500 wet or dry sand paper then waxed and buffed it. Just don't over do it,you are using sand paper.
It's the tools
Get the best and biggest buffer you can afford. Make sure it is variable speed, One with the right pads. Now you can use what ever compound you want -- but remember the more grit the more you take off, the less grit the less you take off and some people will tell you not to compound at all. Personally I use the 3M micro grit -- not available at most typical boat stores. They usually have the 3M super duty grit that I believe is too heavy for most boats. Some automotive places carry the micro grit. You may be able to get it from the WEB. Spread on the compound according to directions but over a three or four foot area and buff it all the way (while it is still wet) out so there is none of the product left on the the area. Do the entire boat. Now, get the best wax you can afford -- check out Practical Sailor, they recommend Collinite paste Fleetwax. It is for marine and aeronautical finishes, nothing like it ever before. Personally, I use the Collinite No. 870. (it used to be the best) One bottle of this does my 320 with some left over. If you can't compound with a buffer, you won't get the best finish. I put the Collinite on with a wet sponge and wipe it off with an old towel, but you can buff it. I showed my son this process and he used it on his 24 year old boat and it looked new -- just as my 320 does when I get done. If your gel coat is worn out you may not get as good a finish. The wax lasts one year easily and you may not have to compound again. Do not use any kind of soap that will take the wax off. (i.e., Simple Green) I use Limon Joy most of the time. When you are ready to start over, you can use fantastic to take the wax off and prevent wax built up. Give it a try and best of luck. Everyone has their own process, this is mine and I've used it on three boats. Paul
Get the best and biggest buffer you can afford. Make sure it is variable speed, One with the right pads. Now you can use what ever compound you want -- but remember the more grit the more you take off, the less grit the less you take off and some people will tell you not to compound at all. Personally I use the 3M micro grit -- not available at most typical boat stores. They usually have the 3M super duty grit that I believe is too heavy for most boats. Some automotive places carry the micro grit. You may be able to get it from the WEB. Spread on the compound according to directions but over a three or four foot area and buff it all the way (while it is still wet) out so there is none of the product left on the the area. Do the entire boat. Now, get the best wax you can afford -- check out Practical Sailor, they recommend Collinite paste Fleetwax. It is for marine and aeronautical finishes, nothing like it ever before. Personally, I use the Collinite No. 870. (it used to be the best) One bottle of this does my 320 with some left over. If you can't compound with a buffer, you won't get the best finish. I put the Collinite on with a wet sponge and wipe it off with an old towel, but you can buff it. I showed my son this process and he used it on his 24 year old boat and it looked new -- just as my 320 does when I get done. If your gel coat is worn out you may not get as good a finish. The wax lasts one year easily and you may not have to compound again. Do not use any kind of soap that will take the wax off. (i.e., Simple Green) I use Limon Joy most of the time. When you are ready to start over, you can use fantastic to take the wax off and prevent wax built up. Give it a try and best of luck. Everyone has their own process, this is mine and I've used it on three boats. Paul
J
jr
it is definitely the tools
When I restore customers boats I always sand to bring back the shine to the gelcoat. Most of the time it's dead wax and dead gelcoat that is causing the fade. First take denatured alcohol on a rag and wipe off a spot. If it looks alot better then you have a lot of wax build up that will need to be removed. Then I take 800 grit pads and just lightly scuff the surface, this will get you to the "good" gelcoat. I use Aqua Buff's 2 part system 1000 and 2000 with 3M's compouding and polishing pads (use compounding pads for the 1000 and polishing for the 2000). Results are really amazing, you can make old boats look like new. It's a ton of work, but good luck!!
When I restore customers boats I always sand to bring back the shine to the gelcoat. Most of the time it's dead wax and dead gelcoat that is causing the fade. First take denatured alcohol on a rag and wipe off a spot. If it looks alot better then you have a lot of wax build up that will need to be removed. Then I take 800 grit pads and just lightly scuff the surface, this will get you to the "good" gelcoat. I use Aqua Buff's 2 part system 1000 and 2000 with 3M's compouding and polishing pads (use compounding pads for the 1000 and polishing for the 2000). Results are really amazing, you can make old boats look like new. It's a ton of work, but good luck!!
R
Rob
Cruising World April 2004
There is a great 5 page article in cruising World on just this subject..Written by William Burr and Aln Cothran ....EXCELLENT!...it helps to be out of the water....but to sum up the article it kind of goes like this... #1. Scrub hull with Clorox and water to remove dirt and mildew. #2. mark Hull with pencil "x" marks to indicate areas not yet sanded. Wet sand with 800 grit paper, repeat with progressivly finer paper. #3. Buff the hull using finishing compound and a lambs wool polishing pad with variable speed polisher. #4. rake the pad to keep it clean during compounding. #5. After washing and rinsing the hull again....Apply your favorite wax. and finish with a final buff. It does help to read the article to get all the fine points with pictures but thats the gist of it. Good luck and have fun!
There is a great 5 page article in cruising World on just this subject..Written by William Burr and Aln Cothran ....EXCELLENT!...it helps to be out of the water....but to sum up the article it kind of goes like this... #1. Scrub hull with Clorox and water to remove dirt and mildew. #2. mark Hull with pencil "x" marks to indicate areas not yet sanded. Wet sand with 800 grit paper, repeat with progressivly finer paper. #3. Buff the hull using finishing compound and a lambs wool polishing pad with variable speed polisher. #4. rake the pad to keep it clean during compounding. #5. After washing and rinsing the hull again....Apply your favorite wax. and finish with a final buff. It does help to read the article to get all the fine points with pictures but thats the gist of it. Good luck and have fun!
Before you sand
Check out Island Girl products for another approach (see attached link). The owner, Anthony Willis, has been a guest expert for this site. I've had good luck with his system on a 1981 Catalina 30. You can always sand later if you want, but sanding is irreversible.
Check out Island Girl products for another approach (see attached link). The owner, Anthony Willis, has been a guest expert for this site. I've had good luck with his system on a 1981 Catalina 30. You can always sand later if you want, but sanding is irreversible.
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