Every year it gets worse. This year it is unbearable. Especially after the engine has been running. If you open the Starboard locker, you are overcome with the fumes. If I fill the tank right up and come back later, there is a puddle of diesel sitting in the sagging section on the top of the plastic tank. While the engine is running, I can find no leaks squirting anywhere or in the bilge. I am seriously thinking of taking out the plastic tank and replacing everything. First question: Has anybody removed the bulkhead seperating the aft cabin and the locker to do work on the tank? I checked the archives and found dead ends. Second main question: Has anybody removed the tank and replaced it with a generic 13 gallon tank? What surprises can I expect? Allen
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This is only a guess...
But I have a strong suspicion that your fuel tank isn't a fuel tank, but is actually a waste or water tank. Two reasons I think so: 1) diesel is pooling on the top of the tank...CG regs for plastic fuel tanks require that no surface should be able to allow fuel to pool on it. 2) Both your odor and the pooling lead me to suspect that the tank is "sweating" diesel--diesel has literally saturated the tank walls--which would mean it's made from the wrong kind of poly for fuel holding. Waste and water tanks are made of liner polyethylene, which is HIGHLY permeable by fuel...and why plastic fuel tank must be made of crossed-polyethylene, which fuel does not permeate. So I'd come close to betting real money that a PO replaced the original fuel tank with a tank that isn't made to hold fuel. If I'm right, the solution to your problem is a new tank--either aluminum or a plastic tank made to hold fuel, not water or waste.
But I have a strong suspicion that your fuel tank isn't a fuel tank, but is actually a waste or water tank. Two reasons I think so: 1) diesel is pooling on the top of the tank...CG regs for plastic fuel tanks require that no surface should be able to allow fuel to pool on it. 2) Both your odor and the pooling lead me to suspect that the tank is "sweating" diesel--diesel has literally saturated the tank walls--which would mean it's made from the wrong kind of poly for fuel holding. Waste and water tanks are made of liner polyethylene, which is HIGHLY permeable by fuel...and why plastic fuel tank must be made of crossed-polyethylene, which fuel does not permeate. So I'd come close to betting real money that a PO replaced the original fuel tank with a tank that isn't made to hold fuel. If I'm right, the solution to your problem is a new tank--either aluminum or a plastic tank made to hold fuel, not water or waste.
Good detective work, Peggie!
And good advice, as usual. The original fuel tank on the 28.5 was molded into the hull at the bottom of the stb. lazarette, so Allen's tank can't possibly be the original one.
And good advice, as usual. The original fuel tank on the 28.5 was molded into the hull at the bottom of the stb. lazarette, so Allen's tank can't possibly be the original one.
about the original fuel tank
I would also point out, in case you were not aware, that you should not try to go back to using the original molded in fuel tank. The chances are high that it leaks, and that is why an auxilliary tank was installed. To cut out the bulkhead and install a new tank in the old tank's cavity, and then replace the bulkhead, I was quoted a price of $3,000. I use an aux fuel tank instead. It does take up space in the locker, but it doesn't cost 3 grand.
I would also point out, in case you were not aware, that you should not try to go back to using the original molded in fuel tank. The chances are high that it leaks, and that is why an auxilliary tank was installed. To cut out the bulkhead and install a new tank in the old tank's cavity, and then replace the bulkhead, I was quoted a price of $3,000. I use an aux fuel tank instead. It does take up space in the locker, but it doesn't cost 3 grand.
Bulkhead
Mine on the 29.5 is fastened with screws. It's a bit awkward to remove, but you get a good look at the both tanks.
Mine on the 29.5 is fastened with screws. It's a bit awkward to remove, but you get a good look at the both tanks.
I checked with the original owner
I still keep in touch with the original owner and he swears up and down that it is the original tank. I double checked to see what if I did cut out the bulkhead wall. No go. I noticed that the tank sits further aft than the aft cabin wall and that it is so tight against the hot water tank that there would be no room to swing it around. I think the idea of placing a new tank on top of the old one is the best idea. The area is to difficult to get to for storage anyways. I am gratefull to all that have and will contribute! Allen
I still keep in touch with the original owner and he swears up and down that it is the original tank. I double checked to see what if I did cut out the bulkhead wall. No go. I noticed that the tank sits further aft than the aft cabin wall and that it is so tight against the hot water tank that there would be no room to swing it around. I think the idea of placing a new tank on top of the old one is the best idea. The area is to difficult to get to for storage anyways. I am gratefull to all that have and will contribute! Allen
Has to be a replacement tank
As mentioned earlier, the original tank is moulded into the boat and actually appears to be the floor of the lazerette. There should be a fuel guage right on top. If it is a replacement tank, just pull it out and replace it. There should be no need to cut the partition between the tank and aft cabin. There is enough room to crawl around down there. If it is the original tank I would drain it, stop it off and put a new tank on top. That is a pretty big locker. I would also look at your exhaust hose just above where it exits out below the transom. These can rot and you can be pumping exaust water between the aft bulkhead and the transom. This will smell up a boat pretty quickly. Pull out the starboard aft seat bin and look for water accumulating down there with a flashlight while the engine is running.
As mentioned earlier, the original tank is moulded into the boat and actually appears to be the floor of the lazerette. There should be a fuel guage right on top. If it is a replacement tank, just pull it out and replace it. There should be no need to cut the partition between the tank and aft cabin. There is enough room to crawl around down there. If it is the original tank I would drain it, stop it off and put a new tank on top. That is a pretty big locker. I would also look at your exhaust hose just above where it exits out below the transom. These can rot and you can be pumping exaust water between the aft bulkhead and the transom. This will smell up a boat pretty quickly. Pull out the starboard aft seat bin and look for water accumulating down there with a flashlight while the engine is running.
You bring up a good point Jeff
I was embarrassed to suggest this but you mentioned something that led me to think about just plopping a new tank on top. Then engine exhaust hose runs directly over the fuel tank. This is why I thought of pulling it out laterally through the aft birth wall as opposed to pulling it straight up and over the hot water tank. To pull it out as you propose, there is not nearly enough slack in the engine hose to get it around. If I completely remove the hose,which I would have to in order to get out the tank, won't I flood the boat? (I can not haul the boat out until the fall)
I was embarrassed to suggest this but you mentioned something that led me to think about just plopping a new tank on top. Then engine exhaust hose runs directly over the fuel tank. This is why I thought of pulling it out laterally through the aft birth wall as opposed to pulling it straight up and over the hot water tank. To pull it out as you propose, there is not nearly enough slack in the engine hose to get it around. If I completely remove the hose,which I would have to in order to get out the tank, won't I flood the boat? (I can not haul the boat out until the fall)
My 1987 Model 28.5
has a tank that is not molded to and never was moulded to the bottom of the lazerette. It sits on a flat, factory glassed-in platform, right behind the water heater, and is held in place with plastic strapping. My tank had similar leaking at the top and it was a split in the diesel filler hose that was single clamped and the split went behind the clamp. Anytime I overfilled the tank, diesel would migrate down the split and drain out on top of the tank. Replaced the fill hose, double clamped it, and no problem now. If I were going to replace fuel tank, I'd pull the water heater and then it would be no sweat.
has a tank that is not molded to and never was moulded to the bottom of the lazerette. It sits on a flat, factory glassed-in platform, right behind the water heater, and is held in place with plastic strapping. My tank had similar leaking at the top and it was a split in the diesel filler hose that was single clamped and the split went behind the clamp. Anytime I overfilled the tank, diesel would migrate down the split and drain out on top of the tank. Replaced the fill hose, double clamped it, and no problem now. If I were going to replace fuel tank, I'd pull the water heater and then it would be no sweat.
Should't leak
The exhaust is above the waterline. Actually there is a solid glass exhaust tube which extends up from the waterline. This is what the exhaust hose goes over and is clamped to. Just to cover myself, this is the way mine is. If you notice, the exhaust should be visible when standing back from the boat since it is above the waterline as are the cockpit drains. When moving under power it is under water. It is a bear to get off due to the heat and it probably somewhat rotted after all these years. I had to cut mine off. I would plan on just replacing the hose as long as you are down there. Not a fun job but ain't yachting fun?
. Just reread your post and my exhaust hose runs suspended along the top above the water heater as recall. Somebody may have replaced your hose already with a shorter one to save a few bucks if it is actually on top of the fuel tank. I'll look tomorrow if I make it out to my boat to make sure.
The exhaust is above the waterline. Actually there is a solid glass exhaust tube which extends up from the waterline. This is what the exhaust hose goes over and is clamped to. Just to cover myself, this is the way mine is. If you notice, the exhaust should be visible when standing back from the boat since it is above the waterline as are the cockpit drains. When moving under power it is under water. It is a bear to get off due to the heat and it probably somewhat rotted after all these years. I had to cut mine off. I would plan on just replacing the hose as long as you are down there. Not a fun job but ain't yachting fun?
. Just reread your post and my exhaust hose runs suspended along the top above the water heater as recall. Somebody may have replaced your hose already with a shorter one to save a few bucks if it is actually on top of the fuel tank. I'll look tomorrow if I make it out to my boat to make sure.Allen from Toronto / Diesel smell
I checked the routing of the exhaust hose and as I remembered, it is suspended just below the top of the locker and runs aft above the water heater, over the very aft plywood bulkhead and down to the exhaust hole stub. This like trying to describe a bicycle. In effect, it is like a very large upside down U. Hope this helps. Also,I cut an access hole through the aft bulkhead to gain access to the end of the exhaust hose.
I checked the routing of the exhaust hose and as I remembered, it is suspended just below the top of the locker and runs aft above the water heater, over the very aft plywood bulkhead and down to the exhaust hole stub. This like trying to describe a bicycle. In effect, it is like a very large upside down U. Hope this helps. Also,I cut an access hole through the aft bulkhead to gain access to the end of the exhaust hose.
Thats my situation
That describes my arrangement also except the hose is a little shorter. Not much, but a little. All these postings have really made my head swim. I am glad to hear that someone has the same tank as me that is also held down with the same plastic straps. Everything everybody has suggested sounds like a plausable cause. The split in the fill line is what would explain the puddle on the top of the tank after a fill up and a leak in the exhaust hose would really explain why the smell is the worst after the engine has run. The latter explanation sounds the most likely and I am a bit embarrassed that I never thought the smell might be combustion fumes and not diesel. Anyways, I am going on a cruise this weekend and will go along a ways with the seat in the up position.<g> Jeff, did cutting that hole really make a difference when replacing that exhaust hose? Allen
That describes my arrangement also except the hose is a little shorter. Not much, but a little. All these postings have really made my head swim. I am glad to hear that someone has the same tank as me that is also held down with the same plastic straps. Everything everybody has suggested sounds like a plausable cause. The split in the fill line is what would explain the puddle on the top of the tank after a fill up and a leak in the exhaust hose would really explain why the smell is the worst after the engine has run. The latter explanation sounds the most likely and I am a bit embarrassed that I never thought the smell might be combustion fumes and not diesel. Anyways, I am going on a cruise this weekend and will go along a ways with the seat in the up position.<g> Jeff, did cutting that hole really make a difference when replacing that exhaust hose? Allen
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