Yesterday I drilled 1/2 in holes to for filling with epoxy before boring holes for mounting hardware to the transome. I am just wandering how long I should let it cure before proceding to drill for mounting bolts. I used MAS epoxy with colloidial silica ixed to about a peanut butter consisantcy. Let me know. Thanks, Seth-
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There's always the product's instructions and
directions which should advise you of the curing time based on your mixture. Alan's right, too.
directions which should advise you of the curing time based on your mixture. Alan's right, too.
I'm begining to wonder about Stu
read the instructions???!!!! He didn't do anything wrong Stu! I mean he didn't even break anything yet! Clearly, Seth is a manly man and has done his homework since he knows about putting the epoxy plug in in the first place. And you want to burden him with reading the "little girly" instructions? ;-) Stu you have always hit me as a manly man but this kind of advice leaves me wondering about your saltiness. ;-) Seth, the stuff has to have cured by now. Go for it!
read the instructions???!!!! He didn't do anything wrong Stu! I mean he didn't even break anything yet! Clearly, Seth is a manly man and has done his homework since he knows about putting the epoxy plug in in the first place. And you want to burden him with reading the "little girly" instructions? ;-) Stu you have always hit me as a manly man but this kind of advice leaves me wondering about your saltiness. ;-) Seth, the stuff has to have cured by now. Go for it!
Advice!
You could not have advise someone, you gave advice good or bad. Stu is fond of steering folks to archives, books, articles et al when a simple answer to the question is quicker and easier. In cases of working with chemicals, it is advisable to take a quick stock of the directions if you haven't worked with the stuff before. A hot pot a can burn you as well as the vessel, and ends up a waste of money if you don't hit the ground runnin. Seth, you didn't metion what KIND of 'harware' you wanted to mount, but if it is to put some heavy framework like a outboard bracket or a Monitor windvane for example....you would need a backing plate. This would normally take the form of plywood that has been varnished or epoxed with several coats. Your 'paste' sounds good, but that is for covering holes, fairing and that sort of thing, not for structural strength although some think it is, like micro-balloon is strounger than sheer glass, but for real strenghth you need some cloth lay-up or backing as well.
You could not have advise someone, you gave advice good or bad. Stu is fond of steering folks to archives, books, articles et al when a simple answer to the question is quicker and easier. In cases of working with chemicals, it is advisable to take a quick stock of the directions if you haven't worked with the stuff before. A hot pot a can burn you as well as the vessel, and ends up a waste of money if you don't hit the ground runnin. Seth, you didn't metion what KIND of 'harware' you wanted to mount, but if it is to put some heavy framework like a outboard bracket or a Monitor windvane for example....you would need a backing plate. This would normally take the form of plywood that has been varnished or epoxed with several coats. Your 'paste' sounds good, but that is for covering holes, fairing and that sort of thing, not for structural strength although some think it is, like micro-balloon is strounger than sheer glass, but for real strenghth you need some cloth lay-up or backing as well.
seth, I hope you are not just drilling a straight through hole.
I am assuming that you have done this because the transom was cored. If you don't dig out some of the cored material, there is really nothing to keep that 1/2" plug from popping out, or the cored material from compressing around the hole. The purpose is to keep the cored area from compressing. The core must be taken out about 1/4" more than your 1/2" hole. You can reem it out with a bent nail in cordless drill chuck. Be careful. This is not the safest process. If you do not remove the core, the hardware, not the fastener, may compress the inner and outer fiberglass and distort the core so that the plug you put in leaks and allows new water into your core causing a bigger problem than you had. If you don't understand what I have said, please ask. your work may not only be fruitless but it may fail if it is just straight through 1/2" holes. r.w.landau
I am assuming that you have done this because the transom was cored. If you don't dig out some of the cored material, there is really nothing to keep that 1/2" plug from popping out, or the cored material from compressing around the hole. The purpose is to keep the cored area from compressing. The core must be taken out about 1/4" more than your 1/2" hole. You can reem it out with a bent nail in cordless drill chuck. Be careful. This is not the safest process. If you do not remove the core, the hardware, not the fastener, may compress the inner and outer fiberglass and distort the core so that the plug you put in leaks and allows new water into your core causing a bigger problem than you had. If you don't understand what I have said, please ask. your work may not only be fruitless but it may fail if it is just straight through 1/2" holes. r.w.landau
heres the scoop
Thanks for all of your responses. I drilled 1/2" holes. Then I tryed to open the core by taking the tip of a really small bit and poking it around while drilling. Then I took a small allen wrench and chucked it up in my drill spinning it around feverishly to remove material. After I felt it was opened up I began to apply the epoxy with a syringe working it in to avoid any voids. Next when I could tell this material was hard enough I bored for the mouting bolts. By the way I am mounting swim ladder through the boat, about 3/8" epoxy filler, 1/2" plywood core and then 2'x6'red oak backing plate for strength and stiffness. The gugeons are the same. Then the outboard motormount will be the same with the exception of the plywood, which is 1" thick with the same backing. I feel pretty confident about this setup. The wood did not core out as easy as balsa would have, but I made an effor to open it up. Hopefully this will be enough. The old transome lasted 30 years without pot filling. In thiry years I wont be worried about this. Seth Dixon Third Day 1977 Oday 25 Lighthouse Landing Grand Rivers, Ky
Thanks for all of your responses. I drilled 1/2" holes. Then I tryed to open the core by taking the tip of a really small bit and poking it around while drilling. Then I took a small allen wrench and chucked it up in my drill spinning it around feverishly to remove material. After I felt it was opened up I began to apply the epoxy with a syringe working it in to avoid any voids. Next when I could tell this material was hard enough I bored for the mouting bolts. By the way I am mounting swim ladder through the boat, about 3/8" epoxy filler, 1/2" plywood core and then 2'x6'red oak backing plate for strength and stiffness. The gugeons are the same. Then the outboard motormount will be the same with the exception of the plywood, which is 1" thick with the same backing. I feel pretty confident about this setup. The wood did not core out as easy as balsa would have, but I made an effor to open it up. Hopefully this will be enough. The old transome lasted 30 years without pot filling. In thiry years I wont be worried about this. Seth Dixon Third Day 1977 Oday 25 Lighthouse Landing Grand Rivers, Ky
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