Overheating Yanmar diesel engine

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AlainC

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Mar 17, 2013
7
Hunter 30 Vancouver BC
I have a Yanmar 20gm engine, I normally run it at 2800RPM but was told to run it at 3400 RPM for 20 minutes once every 10 hours or so. I did this but after 15 minutes the alarm for overheating went on. I shut down the engine, got it cooled off and then restarted the engine running at at 2000RPM with no problem.

Is it normal for the engine to overheat the faster you run it? I am concerned that their might be an additional problem.

Any advice?

Thanks

Alain
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,340
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Have you done any maintenance on the cooling system? Exhaust elbow? Heat exchanger?

Without some history and context, all anyone can do is guess.
 

AlainC

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Mar 17, 2013
7
Hunter 30 Vancouver BC
Have you done any maintenance on the cooling system? Exhaust elbow? Heat exchanger?

Without some history and context, all anyone can do is guess.
I have replaced the exhaust elbow and the coolant 60 engine hours ago but no problem until this overheating situation happened.
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,340
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
I have replaced the exhaust elbow and the coolant 60 engine hours ago but no problem until this overheating situation happened.
What about the heat exchanger? Clogged, lost impeller fins?

It should not overheat even at max rpm so a piece of this puzzle is still missing
 
Jun 6, 2013
11
Hunter 28 Burlington, ON
From past experience with same engine model and same symptoms I would suspect the heat exchanger.
 

AlainC

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Mar 17, 2013
7
Hunter 30 Vancouver BC
From past experience with same engine model and same symptoms I would suspect the heat exchanger.
Thanks, will check the impaller and the heat exchanger. Thanks also for confirming that the engine should not overheat just by reeving it at higher RPM.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
It could also be over propped. Do you know the prop size. You may want to ask a prop shop.

Where you pumping black smoke when running at 3400?
 
Jun 4, 2004
844
Hunter 28.5 Tolchester, MD
Yanmar 2GM20 Cooling water checks

I've had the 2GM 20 since 1986, here's some options to look at starting with easiest & least cost to the more involved: Basically, start at the water intake thru hull and valve. Close the valve, back off the hose clamps and pull off the intake hose. With a straight piece of coat hanger wire at hand, open the valve and push the wire thru to clear any debris. Close the valve, re-attach the hose and clamps and move to the intake strainer. Open the strainer and clear the basket. With the lid off the strainer, open and close the thru hull intake valve to check the water flow to the strainer. If all was clear to this point, follow the intake hose to the front of the engine and the belt driven seawater pump. Check for slippage at the belt to pump drive pulley, and proper belt tension. Run the engine and check for the overheat condition. If it still persists, remove and open up the seawater pump, look for damaged impeller or missing blades & replace the impeller and gasket; re-install & adjust belt tension. If impeller was damaged and blades missing they may be down stream in the heat exchanger and it would need to be opened and cleared. However if no damage to impeller, and overheat condition still persists, skip to removal, inspection and cleaning of the water injection elbow; start with removal of a small aprox. 5/8" injection hose to a brass fitting into one side of an upside down "U" fitting. If this is clogged or partially clogged, remove and clean; then remove the exhaust hose from the back of the "U" (a couple small flat head screw drivers and "PB Blaster" might be necessary). Four bolts hold the exhaust elbow to the back of the engine. Un-bolt & remove the exhaust elbow, injection fitting & "U". At this point it may be easier to take the entire assembly to a muffler shop for disassembly as the exhaust elbow and "U" fitting are connected by a right & left hand threaded stainless steel coupling. With the three pieces apart you can determine if the two parallel chambers of the "U" are clogged or partially clogged and if it can be cleaned and salvaged.
At this point you have inspected and cleaned or re-built the entire seawater side of the cooling system. The antifreeze side, being a closed system typically only needs replacing of the thermostat and occasional draining and replacing of the antifreeze coolant.
 
Last edited:
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Were you able to look at the engine when this was happening? May be a collapsed intake hose?
 
Mar 25, 2010
152
Hunter 34 Rose Haven MD
Another idea is that your tach is off as bad as mine was. I just bought a noncontact tach - put reflective tape on fly wheel - point laser at it and watch the RPM. Here is what I found.

At Eng
Tach Flywheel
1000 1150
1500 1850
2000 2450
2500 2950
2600 3050
2700 3180
2800 3315

Scares me because it means I have been running my engine really hard.
 
Jun 30, 2004
446
Hunter 340 St Andrews Bay
My Yanmar will run all day at 2400, but anything north of that (especially if pulling a dinghy) and my alarm goes off. So far I'm subscribing to srhummer's theory of the tach error.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Not mentioned

A couple of things not mentioned so far. Thermostat, pretty easy to get to, and can cause problems with overheating. Also, I once had a brand new impeller spin the hub. The impeller looked perfect, and only had less than ten hours on it. If this and other advice given doesn't fix it, don't know what else to check.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,986
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
When we first got our boat, the PO was honest and told us that the engine overheated when pushed at WOT. Admittedly it was a Universal, not a Yanmar, but the issues are pretty much the same. Knowing nothing about diesel engines at the time, I did some "homework" (pre-Internet in 1998), and oncluded that the first thing to do was to remove the HX. Our engine's different than a Yanmar, but the concept is the same. I found a real big buildup of salt on the intake port of the HX from the raw pump. Knocked it off, reinstalled and the engine worked just fine after that.

Take the advice given here, step-by-step.

Good luck.
 
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