has anyone had the upgrade for the Yamnar overheating problem? How does it work now? Thanks Frank
Overheating 33
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I did...
Before the modification I had overheating problems all of the time. I had to treat the engine very gently. Now...I can run the engine at 3000-3200 rpm all day. I also took the opportunity to add a digital temperature gauge (see archives and below) so I can actually see what is going on temperature-wise. I strongly encourge anybody with the 3YM30 engine to talk with Yanmar and schedule the upgrade. Just so we are clear as to what this means - Many people with the Yanmar 3YM30 shipped in 2004-2005 were experiencing overheating issues with their engines under 'normal' operating conditions. This overheating was speculated to be caused by cooling cores coated with cosmoline at the factory and never cleaned off properly causing poor heat transfer, engines shipped from hunter with an improper concentration of anti-freeze, air bubbles forming at the cooling lines elbow into the core due to a mis-alignment, and finally an improperly sized cooling core. I received this info from Yanmar about the problem of Hunter 33 Yanmar 3YM30's overheating above 2800 RPM. There are two Yanmar "Marine Service Advisories" (MSA's). The technical details are: Yanmar MSA # E05-023 for the diagnosis, and MSA E05-025 for the solution and parts spec. Engines with serial numbers lower than (but not including) E05566 are all affected. My engine number is E00869. Their diagnosis was twofold. First the heat exchanger does not effectively cool the engine over 2800 RPM - especially if clogged with bad gunk due to overheating of the coolant. Second, the alignment of a hose at the end of the unit can cause a bubble to form. This bubble will move to the coolant pump when the engine gets hot and cause the pump to cavitate. All of my friends who have had this issue fixed have said the solution is to a) fix the hose problem and b) install a new design of heat exchanger core which has more tubes. The end caps and O-rings are also replaced and I understand that the end caps have also been redesigned. The temperature gauge I installed is: http://www.cruzpro.com/t30.html This gauge has a sender ground since the water heater hose that I mounting the sender in is ungrounded (rubber). The temperature sender that you choose must have it's own ground as well. That is about everything I can remember from the experience. My Yanmar service rep did a good job on the engine though they were sloppy putting the alternator back on and a loose positive wire eventually failed to the point where it burned up. Not a big deal for me though since I had planned on upgrading to a Balmar alternator anyway. Andy
Before the modification I had overheating problems all of the time. I had to treat the engine very gently. Now...I can run the engine at 3000-3200 rpm all day. I also took the opportunity to add a digital temperature gauge (see archives and below) so I can actually see what is going on temperature-wise. I strongly encourge anybody with the 3YM30 engine to talk with Yanmar and schedule the upgrade. Just so we are clear as to what this means - Many people with the Yanmar 3YM30 shipped in 2004-2005 were experiencing overheating issues with their engines under 'normal' operating conditions. This overheating was speculated to be caused by cooling cores coated with cosmoline at the factory and never cleaned off properly causing poor heat transfer, engines shipped from hunter with an improper concentration of anti-freeze, air bubbles forming at the cooling lines elbow into the core due to a mis-alignment, and finally an improperly sized cooling core. I received this info from Yanmar about the problem of Hunter 33 Yanmar 3YM30's overheating above 2800 RPM. There are two Yanmar "Marine Service Advisories" (MSA's). The technical details are: Yanmar MSA # E05-023 for the diagnosis, and MSA E05-025 for the solution and parts spec. Engines with serial numbers lower than (but not including) E05566 are all affected. My engine number is E00869. Their diagnosis was twofold. First the heat exchanger does not effectively cool the engine over 2800 RPM - especially if clogged with bad gunk due to overheating of the coolant. Second, the alignment of a hose at the end of the unit can cause a bubble to form. This bubble will move to the coolant pump when the engine gets hot and cause the pump to cavitate. All of my friends who have had this issue fixed have said the solution is to a) fix the hose problem and b) install a new design of heat exchanger core which has more tubes. The end caps and O-rings are also replaced and I understand that the end caps have also been redesigned. The temperature gauge I installed is: http://www.cruzpro.com/t30.html This gauge has a sender ground since the water heater hose that I mounting the sender in is ungrounded (rubber). The temperature sender that you choose must have it's own ground as well. That is about everything I can remember from the experience. My Yanmar service rep did a good job on the engine though they were sloppy putting the alternator back on and a loose positive wire eventually failed to the point where it burned up. Not a big deal for me though since I had planned on upgrading to a Balmar alternator anyway. Andy
I've had.......
...this same issue with my 3GM30F since day one in '93. If I run over 3000rpm for more than 15 minutes or so the high temp warning will sound. At 2800rpm it will run all day long with no problem. Obviously scale, wrong anti freeze mix and all the associated checks are not the answer. Where do I find the info on the MSA? I went to the Yanmar Marine website and plugged in the MSA number for a search and found nothing.
...this same issue with my 3GM30F since day one in '93. If I run over 3000rpm for more than 15 minutes or so the high temp warning will sound. At 2800rpm it will run all day long with no problem. Obviously scale, wrong anti freeze mix and all the associated checks are not the answer. Where do I find the info on the MSA? I went to the Yanmar Marine website and plugged in the MSA number for a search and found nothing.
MSA's
The MSA's came from conversations I had with Yanmar (Mack Boring). I do not think they are available online. You might try here - http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/ They have an online forum for discussing diesel issues and are also a good place to order parts from. Andy
The MSA's came from conversations I had with Yanmar (Mack Boring). I do not think they are available online. You might try here - http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/ They have an online forum for discussing diesel issues and are also a good place to order parts from. Andy
Recomended engine RPM
I believe the manual says that cruising is at 3600 RPM and that the engine should be run at this speed for maximum engine life. Is anyone running the engine above 3300 RPM? I believe max is about 4200 RPM
I believe the manual says that cruising is at 3600 RPM and that the engine should be run at this speed for maximum engine life. Is anyone running the engine above 3300 RPM? I believe max is about 4200 RPM
Gunshy
After all of my overheating experiences I run my engine around 3000-3200 with the occasional 10 minute sprint at 3600. I have a digital temp gauge (now) and when I run it at 3600 I see the temp rise by about 10 degrees.
After all of my overheating experiences I run my engine around 3000-3200 with the occasional 10 minute sprint at 3600. I have a digital temp gauge (now) and when I run it at 3600 I see the temp rise by about 10 degrees.
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