Outboard problems

chp · Sep 20, 2015

I had a similar problem with my merc. It would quit if I put any power on. I could get it to start just no power. By squeezing the primer bulb I could keep it going. Tracked it down to a bad fuel pump diaphragm.

MrBill_FLL · Sep 21, 2015

my guess would be an air leak. I had the 'O' ring disintegrate inside the gas coupling (tank / engine). it would run only when I kept pumping the bulb.

does it rev in neutral ?

how long was it run with no oil? and how hard?

scotmcpherson · Sep 21, 2015

I have found that if I stall out a carberated 2 stroke motor by putting it into gear and it doesn't want to start again, that it's simply been flooded. Let the engine rest and drain the excess gas out, and I think it will start right back up.

Remember to rev the engine up to "shifting" RPMs before shifting, that's to reduce the risk of a stall-out.

My motor won't start cold without the choke on, but I better shut off the choke instantly (like less than 3 or 4 seconds) or it will flood the engine and stall it out.

Also make sure you are running with the correct richness, either too lean or too rich can cause a motor to stall when put under load. I have marked my richness knobs just in case they get moved by children or errant elbows or stubby fingers.

MrBill_FLL · Sep 21, 2015

rings are probably ok.

Still sounds like air leak to me. any cuts in the line besides the bulb? fittings/connections.

Do you have a spare tank w/ new fuel? can it (tank) be held up higher than the engine? (reduce fuel pump demands/ lower head pressure) -replace the hard bulb too.

it does Not rev in neutral, correct? ie., you can't keep it running no matter what you do.

I assume you've pulled some plugs and looked at them.. normal?

Freedom77 · Sep 21, 2015

Had same problem with Merc 7.5. Now have Honda 7.5 4 cycle.

markwbird · Sep 21, 2015

Sounds like Ethanol. Pull the carb and take it apart and clean it with carb cleaner. Note if any of the stainless steel parts such as screws are rusty. This is a sign of water in fuel which is a problem with ethanol. Reinstall the carb and then put a filter in the fuel line from the remote tank. Put the filter as close to the engine as possible. This is because ethanol degrades the fuel line and sends the gunk into the carb. If this is indeed, the problem it should run fine for a whole season before you have to do it again. Also, West Marine sells ethanol resistant fuel line so you can replace all fuel line in the engine. Also, run the carb dry at the end of each outing.

MrBill_FLL · Sep 21, 2015

Well, I'm assuming it runs fine at idle, and can rev in neutral, but dies only when you put it in gear...

if that's not the case, yeah, rebuild the carb.
-did you have stabil or other fuel stabilizer? how old was fuel.
I have run 1 year old fuel that had stabil.

but real gas is better.
http://pure-gas.org/ pick your state for real gas.

OTOH, its dying under load.
To do a compression test you need a air tool hammer and a impact socket for the flyweel, and the gauge. a shop will have all that.
or you could pull the prop off and put it in gear... but the gearbox will suffer doing that.

GMatthesen · Sep 22, 2015

I had problems with a 4 hp merc that worked and died and drove me crazy. Checking the spark out on the water in bright sunlight it was hard to see, or hear. Finally home to winterize in the darker garage I realized no consistent spark. In the old days you got a big juicy spark on outboards, lawn motors everything, now they seem smaller and more efficient. New igniter, all is well.

Dougo · Sep 23, 2015

Hadim33 said:
Thanks guys for the help , unfortunately someone broke in my truck and stole it today morning.
So I'm going to look into buying a new one.

Thieves are the scum of the earth .

Well that sucks! But look at it as an opportunity to invest in a 4-stroke!

scotmcpherson · Sep 23, 2015

Dude...that sucks...do you have insurance? Might be covered under homeowners insurance

Outboard problems

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