I have a 86 Hunter winged keel its been in salt water all her life. I sold the 5hp Nissan that came with her and now use a 9.9hp Honda weight of approx 95lbs. due to strong currents in certain areas. The out board bracket has shown no new stress cracks but it does flex. Is this normal. Hunter claims the boat should be able to handle up to 10hp. I've been out when the outboard goes completely under in following waves but always comes up running, and never been pooped. Should I change brackets or reinforce this one?
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Steve Lucas
Outboard bracket
I also have a 9.9 but the previous owner changed the bracket to a lifting mount. It works great and keeps the motor high and dry. Very easy to install, four bolts and a plywood backboard for support. Steve
I also have a 9.9 but the previous owner changed the bracket to a lifting mount. It works great and keeps the motor high and dry. Very easy to install, four bolts and a plywood backboard for support. Steve
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Torrence Jenkins
Definitly Reinforce
I have a 26.5 model, and a Nissan 9.9, not too sure of the weight though. I'd say around 60 pounds. The area that held the 4 bolts would flex awful. I also had several cracks beginning around these bolts. I have taken 1/8 inch aluminum plates and machines them into 2 trapazoid shapes. Then drilled the mounting holes. I used aluminum, for a number of reasons. First its fairly cheap and light. Second it won't rot or rust, and third, when you tork the bolts down, it will shape to your hull perfectly. I have not had to touch this all season, (normally after raising and lowering motor I have to check the bolts at least two or three times a season), and the support it gives is excellent. If you want some pictures, let me know, I'll post em. Cheers TJ H26.5 "Flash"
I have a 26.5 model, and a Nissan 9.9, not too sure of the weight though. I'd say around 60 pounds. The area that held the 4 bolts would flex awful. I also had several cracks beginning around these bolts. I have taken 1/8 inch aluminum plates and machines them into 2 trapazoid shapes. Then drilled the mounting holes. I used aluminum, for a number of reasons. First its fairly cheap and light. Second it won't rot or rust, and third, when you tork the bolts down, it will shape to your hull perfectly. I have not had to touch this all season, (normally after raising and lowering motor I have to check the bolts at least two or three times a season), and the support it gives is excellent. If you want some pictures, let me know, I'll post em. Cheers TJ H26.5 "Flash"
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Scott
My fix
I have the original Honda 9.9 on my 25.5, and didn't like how it flexed the transom where it is mounted. Obviously, a mid '80s four cycle is no feather. The original stainless bracket was mounted directly to the transom with no reinforcement either inside or outside. Bad design and/or execution by Hunter or its dealer. After removing the bracket, I discovered only minor cracking in the gelcoat around the four bolt holes through which the mounting bolts passed. From the inside, I was able to tell that the transom is cored with a relatively thick piece of plywood (1/2-5/8 inch). The problems were (1)that the stainless steel bracket lay directly next to the gelcoat on the transom, and (2) that the load created by the heavy outboard was not distributed over a wide enough area to prevent flex. I dealt with the two problems separately. First, I got a piece of black plastic from West Marine that it sells off the shelf and is intended to be used as a universal mounting plate for those swiveling chairs you find on power boats. Its dimensions are about 10 inches X 15 inches X 3/8 inches.(Cost: $14) It is very tough, won't rust, corrode, or need wood treating. I cut it so it is a little larger than the dimensions of my bracket where it meets the transom. I pre-drilled holes in the plastic to match those on the bracket and transom. This cushions the existing bracket from the gelcoat. I ran a bead of 3M 4200 around the edge of the plastic on the transom side to seal the area from any moisture penetration. Next, I got a free scrap of 1/2 inch plywood from the local lumber yard and cut this so that it was about 12X12, some new (longer) ss carriage bolts, and large diameter washers. (cost: about $3) With a buddy, we aligned all the pieces from the outside in, tapped the new bolts in with a hammer, and then tightened the bolts down. This is a two person job as you need someone to hold a wrench on the nuts below while you ratchet the bolts from the outside. (cost: one six pack of micro-brew) This spread the load from the outboard over a greater surface area, eliminating the flex. I check that the nuts are tight periodically. So far, no problems. You can buy new poly brackets that will spread the load for something over $100. You will need to seal your old holes in the transom and drill new ones for the new bracket. For $25 I'm happy with the fix I employed. Didn't have to line up and drill new holes in that expensive fibreglass, and more money for the micro-brews. This summer I was very pleased I had made the fix after returning from our annual cruise in the San Juan Islands. The Straits of Juan De Fuca were very lumpy and the motor was on causing it to get torqued around for about two hours. No problems. Good luck to you, and do take care of this problem. Scott
I have the original Honda 9.9 on my 25.5, and didn't like how it flexed the transom where it is mounted. Obviously, a mid '80s four cycle is no feather. The original stainless bracket was mounted directly to the transom with no reinforcement either inside or outside. Bad design and/or execution by Hunter or its dealer. After removing the bracket, I discovered only minor cracking in the gelcoat around the four bolt holes through which the mounting bolts passed. From the inside, I was able to tell that the transom is cored with a relatively thick piece of plywood (1/2-5/8 inch). The problems were (1)that the stainless steel bracket lay directly next to the gelcoat on the transom, and (2) that the load created by the heavy outboard was not distributed over a wide enough area to prevent flex. I dealt with the two problems separately. First, I got a piece of black plastic from West Marine that it sells off the shelf and is intended to be used as a universal mounting plate for those swiveling chairs you find on power boats. Its dimensions are about 10 inches X 15 inches X 3/8 inches.(Cost: $14) It is very tough, won't rust, corrode, or need wood treating. I cut it so it is a little larger than the dimensions of my bracket where it meets the transom. I pre-drilled holes in the plastic to match those on the bracket and transom. This cushions the existing bracket from the gelcoat. I ran a bead of 3M 4200 around the edge of the plastic on the transom side to seal the area from any moisture penetration. Next, I got a free scrap of 1/2 inch plywood from the local lumber yard and cut this so that it was about 12X12, some new (longer) ss carriage bolts, and large diameter washers. (cost: about $3) With a buddy, we aligned all the pieces from the outside in, tapped the new bolts in with a hammer, and then tightened the bolts down. This is a two person job as you need someone to hold a wrench on the nuts below while you ratchet the bolts from the outside. (cost: one six pack of micro-brew) This spread the load from the outboard over a greater surface area, eliminating the flex. I check that the nuts are tight periodically. So far, no problems. You can buy new poly brackets that will spread the load for something over $100. You will need to seal your old holes in the transom and drill new ones for the new bracket. For $25 I'm happy with the fix I employed. Didn't have to line up and drill new holes in that expensive fibreglass, and more money for the micro-brews. This summer I was very pleased I had made the fix after returning from our annual cruise in the San Juan Islands. The Straits of Juan De Fuca were very lumpy and the motor was on causing it to get torqued around for about two hours. No problems. Good luck to you, and do take care of this problem. Scott
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Bill
Repowering
We wore out the Nissan 5 that came with the boat. It was a great motor, but hated having to fill the tank every hour. Replaced the Nissan with a 9.9 Yamaha. This motor weighs considerably more than the Nissan. I noticed the bolts that hold on the original outboard bracket were starting to pull through the transom. I put a double thickness of 3/4 plywood inside glued with 5200, a backing plate of 1/4" thick aluminium and had a new outboard bracket made of 1/4" aluminum. This fall when I return to the Hunter, I will have to take the outboard bracket back for bracing, it has started to warp from the power exerted by the thrust of the engine. I like the Yammy but it is in my opinion to powerful for my 1986 23 footer. It certainly is to heavy for the outboard bracket that came with the boat.
We wore out the Nissan 5 that came with the boat. It was a great motor, but hated having to fill the tank every hour. Replaced the Nissan with a 9.9 Yamaha. This motor weighs considerably more than the Nissan. I noticed the bolts that hold on the original outboard bracket were starting to pull through the transom. I put a double thickness of 3/4 plywood inside glued with 5200, a backing plate of 1/4" thick aluminium and had a new outboard bracket made of 1/4" aluminum. This fall when I return to the Hunter, I will have to take the outboard bracket back for bracing, it has started to warp from the power exerted by the thrust of the engine. I like the Yammy but it is in my opinion to powerful for my 1986 23 footer. It certainly is to heavy for the outboard bracket that came with the boat.
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steve d.
outboard bracket
I also have an 86 wing keel. Great boat! Stronger and faster and more stable than newer 23.5's, especially in 15+ knts. I bought it used, previous owner installed a folding, swing down bracket that raises or lowers my 8hp Yamaha. I have motored through 4-5ft waves and never had it go under. Also the prop is clear of the water when sailing without alot of tilting. He installed it with aluminum backing plates inboard of the transom. Works great!
I also have an 86 wing keel. Great boat! Stronger and faster and more stable than newer 23.5's, especially in 15+ knts. I bought it used, previous owner installed a folding, swing down bracket that raises or lowers my 8hp Yamaha. I have motored through 4-5ft waves and never had it go under. Also the prop is clear of the water when sailing without alot of tilting. He installed it with aluminum backing plates inboard of the transom. Works great!
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