Outboard locking problem.

Tom G P-21 · Jun 9, 2016

One of the sailors over on the other board used a locking plate for the Tohatsu. He had to modify it a little to make it work. Unfortunately the photo's are gone. You might want to post over there.

http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1309546&highlight=georgeSK motor lock

I believe this is what he was modifying,

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|215570|1825671|2348994&id=2658952

Ward H · Jun 9, 2016

It's a liability thing. Someone locked their outboard straight. Then when they needed to turn it to avoid a collision it wouldn't turn. Of course it was Tohatsu's fault. Now you can only adjust the tension.

Gene Neill · Jun 10, 2016

Ward H said:
It's a liability thing. Someone locked their outboard straight. Then when they needed to turn it to avoid a collision it wouldn't turn. Of course it was Tohatsu's fault. Now you can only adjust the tension.

But they'll SELL you a plate to PERMANENTLY lock it straight? That doesn't add up.

And if you want to talk liability, how about calling the motor a "Sailpro", and marketing it to sailors, but making it inherently dangerous (potentially deadly!) to use on a sailboat? Ever had your motor turn itself 90 degrees sideways while motoring into really snotty seas? Behind your back of course, so you don't see it happening? It's inexcusable.

But in answer to your question, DAVA390, yes, bungees are your only option. Ropes/cables won't work very well, because they don't stretch when raising/lowering the motor.

The Garbone · Jun 10, 2016

DAVA390 said:
On my Tohatsu 6hp outboard: has a thumbscrew on the back to control friction on spinning the top. It says in the manual not to be used to lock the motor in place. It's not kidding, can't be done. Anyone been able to make it happen or are bungee cords or cables my only option?

Remove said thumb screw, go get longer bolt in stainless that is 1/4" longer. take drill bit smaller than bolt and with motor in correct position drill small divit inside hole for new bolt to seat in. Install new bolt with gob of grease to prevent corrosion, motor is now locked.

If the tensioner bolt pushes a shoe the drill may not be required or you may have to dril and tap thru it and then install the bolt.

justsomeguy · Jun 10, 2016

The Garbone's method may not work.

Gene Neill · Jun 10, 2016

Tom G P-21 · Jun 10, 2016

Also, I saw somewhere where someone wiped most of the grease off of the shaft then glued sunbrella material to item 23 in the parts explosion to increase friction. I can't find the link for it but if you do enough searches you might fine it.

Ward H · Jun 10, 2016

Tom G P-21 said:
Also, I saw somewhere where someone wiped most of the grease off of the shaft then glued sunbrella material to item 23 in the parts explosion to increase friction. I can't find the link for it but if you do enough searches you might fine it.

I remember reading the same thing. Sounded like just a way to get more clamping power to hold it tighter. Do I also remember correctly that by applying to much clamping force you can damage the shaft before you lock it in place. Sounds familiar to me.
On my 4hp Tohatsu I remember the same thing JSG posted. It was a clamp around a shaft that couldn't be defeated. Even my 9.9 Yamaha can be tightened down but not locked. That's OK with me as I use it to steer in tight places. Only minor inconvenience is when I tilt it back out of the water and it tilts to one side or another while sailing. I have to lower it before I can straighten it.
I do have it set tight enough it never moves from whatever position I set it when under power. That works well enough for me.

Tom G P-21 · Jun 10, 2016

FYI
Here is the article about the person who modified the tiller lock.

http://tillerfix.blogspot.com/