Outboard for 1990 Mac S

Sumner · Oct 5, 2010

Walt and I this spring bought the Tohasu/Nissan 9.8 HP electric start model with the "Ultra Long Shaft" that is 25 inches long.

http://www.onlineoutboards.com/Tohatsu-9-8-hp-MFS9-8A3EFUL.html

We bought the ultra long shaft vs. the long shaft to help with the situation you are talking about. It is about $100 more than the long shaft and I believe well worth it for the convenience.
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Neither the long shaft or ultra long shaft will turn very far in the outboard well without hitting the sides. A cure is to move the outboard back some. You can place a 1/2 inch piece of plywood between the outboard and the mount and that helps a little, but not a lot. If you buy a "long shaft" (20 inch) then you have to move it back quite a ways so that the screw clamps will cleat the stock well. This helps the turning, but moves the controls back even further from you, not good.

Now here is where the ultra long shaft can help the situation. You can make a mount and move the outboard higher and still have it 20 inches or more in the water like a long shaft. With it higher you don't have to move it back as far since the screw clamps are now higher than the orginal transom and will clear it. With it higher your controls are also now nearer to you.

I think Walt rose his 3 inches and it you search back you will find pictures. I chose to raise.......

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-25.html

.... ours 5 inches so that it is in the water the same distance as the old long shaft. I also made the mount, so that it can be removed in just a couple minutes and with it gone you could lower the motor down on the transom and give up some turning for more depth if you needed that.

Ruth mans the tiller and the outboard almost all of the time that we are docking or anchoring. She is 5-2 and along with that comes shorter arms. I've installed a ....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-26.html

....new higher tiller handle for her. This is an easy mod on the Tohatsu/Nissan the way they are build.

I also extended.....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-28.html

...the gear shift for her and....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-27.html

...the throttle control and to really help with maneuvering I ....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-29.html

...made a removable connector between the rudder tiller and the outboard tiller.

All of the above has moved the controls much.....

.... closer to her.

I've also installed a simple block and tackle so that she or I can easily tilt the outboard forward when we aren't using it. Sure saves the back. The mods are a lot easier to do on the Tohatsu/Nissan vs. doing the same thing to the 8 HP Honda we had.

Hope some of this helps,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

Our Mac Pages

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timebandit · Oct 6, 2010

Looks like Ruth has to do all the work :naughty:

Sumner · Oct 6, 2010

timebandit said:
Looks like Ruth has to do all the work :naughty:

Hey she is in control, what can I say

,

Sum

timebandit · Oct 6, 2010

Great lady and a nice smile.

nemosuit · Oct 7, 2010

Gdindy@aol.com said:
I have a 1990 MacGregor with an old 9.9 Johnson outboard. I'm afraid the moter has seen its best days and in need of replacement. I have a transom mount on the stern,( port side) that has about a 9 inch drop or notch if you will where my motor mounts onto the stern. My issue is with my outboard that when I move the throttle handle to port I hit the side of the motor well restricting my ability to move the bow to starboard without lifting the throttle handle and physically turning the motor to the side with the throttle handle vertical. I thought about the mount that bolts on the outside of the stern and lifts and drops the motor into the water, however, I was concerned that the throttle handle would not be long enough from my seat to steer the boat? Any suggestions on the motor mount?

Thanks!

3:30 am...couldn't sleep...thought I'd cruise the forum...now this thread has me wondering.

I'm fixing a '78 Mac 22. Seems to have the stock outboard mount. Just bought a 2011 Tohatsu 6HP Sail Pro motor with the 25" shaft. Still in the box down in the shop; haven't had time to see how it attaches to the mount yet.

Reading this thread has me wondering. I don't have a cutout in the transom like Sumner does, so my problem with the motor tiller seems like it's going be serious. Looks like I'm going to have to be steering the motor with the tiller handle nearly vertical, and that doesn't sound too good.

Will know more when I actually attach the motor to the mount to see how it fits.

If I have to operate with the motor tiller handle vertical, maybe a linkage rod connecting the motor with the rudder assembly would enable me to steer using the boat tiller?

Gonna have to give this one some thought. Will know more when I unbox the motor and hang it on the mount...but for now I'm a little worried.

VBR,

Pat

timebandit · Oct 7, 2010

You are worried because it sets waaaay back and down like this---

MrBill_FLL · Oct 7, 2010

nice shift rod!!!

you could buy something like this...

http://www.cabelas.com/fryprod-0/product--Cabelas-Tiller-Extension-Handles--700656.uts.shtml

or do what I did on an jon boat, split some pvc and use a hose clamp on the throttle /steering.

(but either way, I'd steal TB's shift rod idea)

timebandit · Oct 7, 2010

My motor is locked in place so I steer with the rudder and prop walk.

Docking is done at just above an idle so that I can shift between fwd and reverse without throttle change.

You want to be carefull when backing not to get up to much speed and then turn the rudder. It was not designed to work that way.

Ten cent shifter extension--

timebandit · Oct 7, 2010

Do you need to set your motor back a little for steering on a s or d model?
http://www.marinetechproducts.com/pages/SetbackPlateModel240

nemosuit · Oct 7, 2010

timebandit said:
You are worried because it sets waaaay back and down like this---

Yup. Well, that is, I think so. I went out and looked at the mount today: it's only got two bolts holding it to the transom: and both are so rusty they look chancy. Would hate to mount the motor and have it drop on the ground, so a proper fitting will have to wait until I remove and reinstall the mount.

But yeah, I think it should look about like yours does.

Neat shifter. Lo buck, and it looks like it works fine.

Gotta run now. More later....

VBR,

Pat

MrBill_FLL · Oct 7, 2010

you guys use a saftey cable ?

nemosuit · Oct 7, 2010

Sumner said:
Walt and I this spring bought the Tohasu/Nissan 9.8 HP electric start model with the "Ultra Long Shaft" that is 25 inches long.

Okay, I think I'm getting what's going on in the pics, and I think I can do something like that.

Looks like when Ruthy moves the rudder tiller, a connecting linkage also moves the motor. I'm thinking that would the the way for me to go. because I'd like to keep the thrust vectoring aspect working along with the rudder. Mine might need to be a little taller because i don't have the cutout transom, but basically I think I can adapt that idea. Mahalo! :dance:

Also like Sumner and TimeBandit's ideas for the shifter; If you don't mind, I'll steal those ideas too! Arrrr! (We need a Pirate Face Smiley!)

As for the throttle, I guess it works in the vertical position, but making it more ergonomic makes good sense.

Thanks again for the helpful ideas! Now to go tinker with my new motor and old mount.

VBR,

Pat

timebandit · Oct 7, 2010

Me thinks there is a large difference between the s and d 26s and the earlier models in the way they mount the motors.

If you have a swing down mount (like the one in the picture below in the upper right) you will find it difficult to attach the motor to the rudder. The pivot for the motor is about 12 inches behind the pivot for the rudder.

But---

If you have a transom mount like the 26 s and ds then if you dont have the motor turn with the rudder I think you need a prop guard to protect the rudder blade if you lock the motor in the fwd. position.

Yes I have a motor safty cable and a lock that locks the two tightening bolts together so that it can't come loose or be removed by crooks. There is also a small block and tackle to raise the motor attached to the cleat, all hidden inder the special towel to keep the shift handle from rattling untill I put a bead of silicone on the rod to insulate it from the hull and stantion.

Sumner · Oct 8, 2010

nemosuit said:
Okay, I think I'm getting what's going on in the pics, and I think I can do something like that.......Pat

Did you follow the links to the construction of what is show?

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-25.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-26.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-27.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-28.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-29.html

And the YouTube video shows the tiller linkage in use....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UYc2ZHehS8&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COMAPYd5WTg&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sWbLBGc1Is&feature=channel

Like TB said the pivot points are key. Notice above that the point where the new tiller pivots up and down is the same height as the point where the rudder tiller pivots up and down. Also the linkage is attached about the same distance out on both of them so they are pretty much in sync.

I think TB posted pictures or a link to a connector that worked out on the backside of the boat that might be a better deal for your outboard location.

We will only attach the linkage when it is necessary to maneuver in tight places. Most of the time the outboard will be locked down straight ahead and the only the rudder will be used. That is what we have done up to this point.

The block and tackle TB mentions....

....is really a key thing to save the back or just get the outboard up if you can't reach it to pull it up....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/outside-24.html

... I used all of that stuff with the Tohatsu, but the way the bails work compared to the Honda I didn't need one of the lines. The Tohatsu was easier to work with.

Don't worry too much about doing all of this before you go out. People have and still do sail without adding all that I have

.

c ya,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

Our Mac Pages

Mac-Venture Links

walt · Oct 8, 2010

Here is the enormously complicated tiller to outboard linkage Ive recently been working on (on a C15)

Pictures from project here.. http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo33/waltcolorado/Coronado 15 sailboat/

I put some pictures of my Mac mod's here http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo33/waltcolorado/Mac 1990S/

Nemosuit, one small item to keep in mind on the Tohatsu/Nissan 4/5/6 outboard (besides never running out of the water - water pump burns up in less than 30 seconds) - you can lay that engine on its side, there is even a little tab for that. However, I found out that when you do this, the prop is also laying on the ground and this puts a flat spot (or something like that) on a gasket in the bottom end - and the bottom gear fluid can leak out. I have the 4 hp, its overall been a great engine (other than finding out about the water pump and the gasket leak - but those issues are avoidable).

timebandit · Oct 8, 2010

This will give you an idea of how far back and down my motor sits. It also takes all the tilt built into the motor to level.

nemosuit · Oct 9, 2010

Sumner said:
Did you follow the links to the construction of what is show?

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-25.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-26.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-27.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-28.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-29.html

And the YouTube video shows the tiller linkage in use....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UYc2ZHehS8&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COMAPYd5WTg&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sWbLBGc1Is&feature=channel

Like TB said the pivot points are key. Notice above that the point where the new tiller pivots up and down is the same height as the point where the rudder tiller pivots up and down. Also the linkage is attached about the same distance out on both of them so they are pretty much in sync.

I think TB posted pictures or a link to a connector that worked out on the backside of the boat that might be a better deal for your outboard location.

We will only attach the linkage when it is necessary to maneuver in tight places. Most of the time the outboard will be locked down straight ahead and the only the rudder will be used. That is what we have done up to this point.

The block and tackle TB mentions....

....is really a key thing to save the back or just get the outboard up if you can't reach it to pull it up....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/outside-24.html

... I used all of that stuff with the Tohatsu, but the way the bails work compared to the Honda I didn't need one of the lines. The Tohatsu was easier to work with.

Don't worry too much about doing all of this before you go out. People have and still do sail without adding all that I have .

c ya,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

Our Mac Pages

Mac-Venture Links

Wow! That's a lot of links! :dance: I just opened the first one and see they are very informative, so I'll be sure to check them all out. Thanks Sumner!

VBR,

Pat

nemosuit · Oct 9, 2010

walt said:
Here is the enormously complicated tiller to outboard linkage Ive recently been working on (on a C15)

Pictures from project here.. http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo33/waltcolorado/Coronado 15 sailboat/

I put some pictures of my Mac mod's here http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo33/waltcolorado/Mac 1990S/

Nemosuit, one small item to keep in mind on the Tohatsu/Nissan 4/5/6 outboard (besides never running out of the water - water pump burns up in less than 30 seconds) - you can lay that engine on its side, there is even a little tab for that. However, I found out that when you do this, the prop is also laying on the ground and this puts a flat spot (or something like that) on a gasket in the bottom end - and the bottom gear fluid can leak out. I have the 4 hp, its overall been a great engine (other than finding out about the water pump and the gasket leak - but those issues are avoidable).

Thanks Walt,

I haven't read the entire manual yet, but I did read something about only laying it on its side a certain way. Right now it's down in the shop, in the box it came in, at the attitude indicated as UP on the box, so I'm thinking it's cool. Thanks for sharing your experience with these motors; it sure helps.

VBR,

Pat