Outboard Electric Tilt and Trim Issues - fixed

[Brian D]

Can't and won't crank the motor until it is in the water. But I don't think that is the issue.

I went there today and the push rod shown above was out. So that is not the issue. Next I will use the side screw to release the pressure of the hydraulics and see if the motor moves down. It could be the pivot pins but I don't think that is the problem. I will report back later.

Thanks for all the help so far. At least it is not the carburetor this time. LOL But I wish it was.

 

[Brian D]

OK... went to the boat and found the screw that allows the motor to lower in the event it is stuck in the up position. Lovely. It was designed and located to be worked on when the boat is out of the water. I have to bend way over with very little support to loosen the screw. However, like the other objects on the motor, it is rusted and corroded in place. Looks like I will have to take the motor off and bring it home.

I did however, place the saturated towel around the piston rod. Maybe that might help.

 

[JimInPB]

Let us know how you make out please.
Enqueuing minds want to know.

 

[Brian D]

To be accurate, I have to be in the dinghy in order to work on the motor. Or, turn the boat around so the motor is dock side. That would be harder but probably will do that.

Anyone ever buy one of these?

Or one of these?

 

[justsomeguy]

Anyone ever buy one of these?

Not me, but I made one out of a convertible hand truck.

 

[agprice22]

Cranking the motor will not hurt it. Running it dry of water for 30 seconds or a minute would only harm your impeller, and very little at that.

Looks like you are planning on some servicing.

I would trace your battery leads to be sure they did not leach some water into them. 1” of corrosion in a ground or power lead at the lug is enough to render the lead useless.

 

[agprice22]

You might try making some alternate leads and using a spare battery to crank the engine. If it cranks and will trim the engine, you then know your wiring is faulty. That is how I fixed mine when the motor trim was stuck in the “up” position.

 

[Brian D]

Yes, I did "crank" it for a few seconds at most. It did turn over but did not start. So I suspect that the battery connection is ok. I think I will spin that boat around and work on it from dockside. First and foremost I want to get it into the water and run it. Being stuck up like that I am sure is not good for the oil. It is probably gumming up by now.

I don't have a spare battery but need to buy one to replace the old used house battery. Probably do that much sooner than later.

Thanks for the info.

 

[agprice22]

As long as the motor is not leaned toward the carburetor, the oil will be fine. If you lean the motor toward the carb, the oil will run into the carb. It will take a hell of a cleaning to fix it!

 

[JimInPB]

Anyone ever buy one of these?

Back when trash cans were made out of steel (think Oscar the Grouch style) I hung my little motors inside of them. The last couple frames I needed, I made out of 2x4s & a short 2x10 where the motor actually hangs. I have seen the store bought carts. They do work well for the little motors.

 

[Brian D]

I wouldn't consider my motor big. It weighs in around 100 lbs so it is no beast, but still hefty. Will I ever use a cart that much? Probably not, but I do have my dinghy motor which I move around a lot. So that might be the justification. LOL

 

[justsomeguy]

It weighs in around 100 lbs so it is no beast...

Oof! That's beast enough.

 

[agprice22]

I have your motor, Brian. I can carry it a little distance, but IT AIN’T EASY! I am only 5’8” and 165 lbs, so that motor requires determination for me to lift off the mount while standing in the bed of my pickup.

If you are going to remove it while on the water, please tie a line to it, maybe from the boom, just to be safe. That thing would make one helluva splash!

 

[Brian D]

Well, Andrew, I have removed the motor (not this one by another Yami 9.9) before. The key was to have stern-in. But before I can lift it out it has to be down else there is too much gap between the swim platform and the dock. I will definitely be very careful. Thanks.

 

[Brian D]

Just an update to say there is no progress yet. I wrapped the piston rod with a towel soaked in PB Blaster but that did nothing. I did turn the boat around so I could work on it from inside the slip.

Now a quick question. Does anyone who has a Yamaha with power tilt know the size of the release valve screw? I tried using a 1/4" flat blade screwdriver but the valve did not budge. I do not want to push my luck with the 1/4" blade. If it is the wrong size I could damage the screw slot. I called the local Yamaha dealer and they said the biggest I could find. Don't think I will be calling them anymore.

 

[agprice22]

Hi Brian. I can fit a 5/16 flat blade on the screw. Problem is that access may be offset a little. Also, I tried to give mine a turn, and it is tight! I wonder if you will need an impact driver?

 

[Brian D]

I was thinking the same thing, but I read that is a bad move. I am also thinking that a vice grip as a leverage might help. I am also looking at using that ed's red to help break up the rust.

One more thing Andrew, I am giving the battery a second look. I know the wiring is fine. The batteries are old and I wonder if there is a lack of juice there. The batteries are old. I will add some ears on the outboard and fire it up.

 

[agprice22]

I was thinking the same thing, but I read that us a bad move. I am also thinking that a vice grip as a leverage might help. I am also looking at using that ed's red to help break up the rust.

One more thing Andrew, I am giving the battery a second look. I know the wiring is fine. The batteries are old and I wonder if there is a lack of juice there. The batteries are old. I will add some ears on the outboard and fire it up.

My screw has no rust. It is just TIGHT. The vice grips may get ‘er done!
Yeah, I would try the battery first! Then you don’t need the screw driver if it moves. I made two short test leads when I did mine. My wiring looked great, but water had leached into both leads at a butt connection the PO made between the boat and motor. It was sealed with heat shrink, but all that did was hide the problem! I attached the test leads, and the motor cranked, and the tilt worked! I cut that butt splice open, and the wires were corroded for about 1/2 - 1” on each side. That was enough to drop the voltage too low for the starter and tilt motor. Once I fixed the splice and sealed it with ADHESIVE shrink, it worked fine.

Hey, do you have steering for your motor, or just the tiller? I found a really cool linear actuator I am going to try. Hooked to a potentiometer, I may be able to synch it to the rudder and steer the outboard.

 

[justsomeguy]

I read that us a bad move.

I've had pretty good luck with a cordless driver using its torque adjuster progressively higher and higher.
Once I've reached "16" on the 12v Milwaukee, 17 usually breaks them free. Or breaks the fastener.

 

[Brian D]

Yeah, JSG... more like

Andrew, I have wheel steering. Tomorrow I am going to put water muffs on the outboard and crank her up. See if she starts. That will give me an indication of the condition of the batteries.