I have a 7.5 hp Chrysler Sailor Motor. It is a pull start motor, but it has a plug coming off the motor. I was told this was a battery charger. I want to hook it up directly to my battery. Is there a problem with this? I have a wet cell dual cycle battery. I have found adapters that can hook up to the plug. But I am having a tough time identifying which wire is ground and which is positive. Any ideas? I know the obvious answer of just go buy a volt meter. But I don't get paid for a few weeks and want to go sailing now. I traced both wires back and they are the same exact color and marking, and they both look like they run to a box on top of each cylinder head. If anyone can help me out with advice on how to hook up my motor to my battery, I would appreciate it. This seems simple, but I'm just missing something. Stephen Fierro Captain of Calamity
Outboard charger question
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Should be OK
1. The “charger” is probably an un-regulated lighting generator, meant for operating lighting only (not for battery charging). However, these small outputs don’t GENERALLY harm batteries, over shorter time-periods. 2. A cheap $2 Auto Test light (polarized) will allow you to determine ‘positive’. Or, perhaps, you could borrow something? HTH Gord
1. The “charger” is probably an un-regulated lighting generator, meant for operating lighting only (not for battery charging). However, these small outputs don’t GENERALLY harm batteries, over shorter time-periods. 2. A cheap $2 Auto Test light (polarized) will allow you to determine ‘positive’. Or, perhaps, you could borrow something? HTH Gord
P
Pete
"charger"
In addition to Gord's good advise I would also suggest that you either fuse the circiut or make sure it is fused before using it.Another good clue is that generaly the exposed side of a connection is the negative side and the positive is protected. I could not see the plug end in the picture to see if you have a exposed side of the connector. Good Luck !
In addition to Gord's good advise I would also suggest that you either fuse the circiut or make sure it is fused before using it.Another good clue is that generaly the exposed side of a connection is the negative side and the positive is protected. I could not see the plug end in the picture to see if you have a exposed side of the connector. Good Luck !
Perfect
That is exactly what I needed to know. You were both right on. I just don't understand much about an unregulated lighting generator. Would this have been used to power a boats lights without a battery? Is this common on outboards? Thanks.
That is exactly what I needed to know. You were both right on. I just don't understand much about an unregulated lighting generator. Would this have been used to power a boats lights without a battery? Is this common on outboards? Thanks.
Yes
The unregulated lighting gen. are common on outboards, and are used to power running/nav. lights, which don't require polarity. Pete's right about the "exposed" connector pin. It SHOULD BE negative; however test befor connecting to a battery (through a fuse - thanx Pete).
The unregulated lighting gen. are common on outboards, and are used to power running/nav. lights, which don't require polarity. Pete's right about the "exposed" connector pin. It SHOULD BE negative; however test befor connecting to a battery (through a fuse - thanx Pete).
one more thing to consider...
is rather you have any voltage sensitive electrical equipment connected to the battery. The output voltage from an un-regulated outboard alternator can sometimes get up to 16 volts,(at high RPM) which could be quite harmful to a radio, GPS, depthsounder, etc. I'd check it with a good digital voltmeter before I trusted it with my electronics. If you don't have a meter, just ask around a bit. They're quite common and somebody's bound to have one that they will let you borrow.
is rather you have any voltage sensitive electrical equipment connected to the battery. The output voltage from an un-regulated outboard alternator can sometimes get up to 16 volts,(at high RPM) which could be quite harmful to a radio, GPS, depthsounder, etc. I'd check it with a good digital voltmeter before I trusted it with my electronics. If you don't have a meter, just ask around a bit. They're quite common and somebody's bound to have one that they will let you borrow.
It is probably AC
*pop I have a Chrysler Sailor 150 and it has the connector you describe. It isn't polarized or marked because it isn't DC, it's AC. I have been tempted to put a rectifier on it to convert it to DC, but since I use the motor for such short periods, it wouldn't do much charging anyway. Anyway, don't connect it directly to anything that is designed for DC or you will probably burn something out.
*pop I have a Chrysler Sailor 150 and it has the connector you describe. It isn't polarized or marked because it isn't DC, it's AC. I have been tempted to put a rectifier on it to convert it to DC, but since I use the motor for such short periods, it wouldn't do much charging anyway. Anyway, don't connect it directly to anything that is designed for DC or you will probably burn something out.
Darn.
Darn. How do I convert this to DC? What is a rectifier? Do I have to go out and buy one of those $200 chargers for my little outboard? I like to work on my boat sometimes at night and run the lights. I plan on doing a few weekend cruises with it too. I just want to be able to make sure I can get the lights going at night if my battery dies. Its a good thing you told me it was ac before I hooked it up to anything. So exactly how do I hook this thing up? I was hoping I could just make the right connectors, run it through a fuse, and connect it directly to my battery. Is this still possible? Stephen Fierro Captain of Calamity
Darn. How do I convert this to DC? What is a rectifier? Do I have to go out and buy one of those $200 chargers for my little outboard? I like to work on my boat sometimes at night and run the lights. I plan on doing a few weekend cruises with it too. I just want to be able to make sure I can get the lights going at night if my battery dies. Its a good thing you told me it was ac before I hooked it up to anything. So exactly how do I hook this thing up? I was hoping I could just make the right connectors, run it through a fuse, and connect it directly to my battery. Is this still possible? Stephen Fierro Captain of Calamity
Rectifier
Rectifier is the name of a device that converts AC to DC. I haven't shopped for one, but I bet you can get one for a lot less than the $200 charger. I can't tell you exactly what you need, but they are commonly used by engines (marine or automotive) that have alternators. I have a service manual that says, "All 6 and 7.5hp models from 1979 on are equipped with CD (capacitive discharge) ignition and an AC lighting system. A DC battery charging system is optional." I would hold out no hope of finding the original charging system today, but you might be able to use a light or two. If you have a friend who knows engines he might be able to tell you how to adapt a replacement rectifier for another engine to fit. Good luck.
Rectifier is the name of a device that converts AC to DC. I haven't shopped for one, but I bet you can get one for a lot less than the $200 charger. I can't tell you exactly what you need, but they are commonly used by engines (marine or automotive) that have alternators. I have a service manual that says, "All 6 and 7.5hp models from 1979 on are equipped with CD (capacitive discharge) ignition and an AC lighting system. A DC battery charging system is optional." I would hold out no hope of finding the original charging system today, but you might be able to use a light or two. If you have a friend who knows engines he might be able to tell you how to adapt a replacement rectifier for another engine to fit. Good luck.
Rectifier Specs
Example: RadioShack Cat # 276-1185, Price $3.29 This little device will take up to 25 Amperes and has 4 terminals (either as blades or wire); two are marked "AC": obviously, this is where your motor wires will go - the other two are marked '+' and '-', respectively. The device has a mounting hole and you need to bolt it to a metal surface that can function as a heat sink. Good luck!
Example: RadioShack Cat # 276-1185, Price $3.29 This little device will take up to 25 Amperes and has 4 terminals (either as blades or wire); two are marked "AC": obviously, this is where your motor wires will go - the other two are marked '+' and '-', respectively. The device has a mounting hole and you need to bolt it to a metal surface that can function as a heat sink. Good luck!
Learn something new every day...
An outboard motor with a low-voltage AC output?! Now that is WEIRD! Never saw one before, thanks Calypso! What I'm wondering is, is this the output from a small alternator that isn't rectified, or are they using some other method to generate the AC?
An outboard motor with a low-voltage AC output?! Now that is WEIRD! Never saw one before, thanks Calypso! What I'm wondering is, is this the output from a small alternator that isn't rectified, or are they using some other method to generate the AC?
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