I am getting ready for my first time -out of the water- hull maintenance... boat have been in water a year and half after purchased, is a 30 Cat 1990 . Any advised on how to clean and repaint bottom etc, which paint to use ??, and any other maintenance I should do before it gets back in water. Any advise will be much appreciated. Thank you. Carlos Domenech
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Lot's of hot hard work!
I'll be a bit quick but here tis, Power wash bottom Sand rough areas of hull or remove old paint entirely. Replace zinc on shaft Clean thru hulls and raw water strainers Use On/Off to clean topsides, amazing results Clean and burnish prop I use Interlux Micron extra here in Naples, paint wears off over time. Check with yard as not all bottom paint can go on over disimilar paints Tape waterline with masking tape, nice straight line. Paint bottom, two coats. For topsides use Fleet wax by Collinite wax on, wax off. no need to use buffer, lots of elbow grease. Ready to launch!
I'll be a bit quick but here tis, Power wash bottom Sand rough areas of hull or remove old paint entirely. Replace zinc on shaft Clean thru hulls and raw water strainers Use On/Off to clean topsides, amazing results Clean and burnish prop I use Interlux Micron extra here in Naples, paint wears off over time. Check with yard as not all bottom paint can go on over disimilar paints Tape waterline with masking tape, nice straight line. Paint bottom, two coats. For topsides use Fleet wax by Collinite wax on, wax off. no need to use buffer, lots of elbow grease. Ready to launch!
On the hard
I'd add a few more things to the checklist: 1. Grease the through-hulls. Check all the hoses & clamps that go to them too. Much easier to replace while on dry land. 2. Check the cutlass bearing on your prop shaft. 3. Check the rudder bearing and the wheel steering mechanism. 4. Repack the prop shaft seal if it hadn't been done in years. 5. Service the engine (lubrication, coolant, belts, filters, zincs, hoses, etc.) Don't forget the waterlift muffler. 6. Service each of the anti-siphon valves (exhaust, head, etc.). 7. Blow out the air vents/hoses for the fuel, water, and holding tanks. 8. Clean all in-line water filters. Replace any water hoses & fittings that show signs of mold growth. 9. Winterize all plumbing if storing until next season. 10. Clean the bilge area. Inspect keel bolts for corrosion. Clean the bilge pump intake line & filter-screening. Check the bilge pump float switch & wiring -- replace if necessary. 11. Check all the standing and running rigging for corrosion, wear, damage. 12. Ditto for stanchions and lifelines. 13. Test all running/steaming lights. BTW: When you launch again, have the prop shaft alignment checked *after* the standing rigging is adjusted & the boat has been taken out on a test-drive.
I'd add a few more things to the checklist: 1. Grease the through-hulls. Check all the hoses & clamps that go to them too. Much easier to replace while on dry land. 2. Check the cutlass bearing on your prop shaft. 3. Check the rudder bearing and the wheel steering mechanism. 4. Repack the prop shaft seal if it hadn't been done in years. 5. Service the engine (lubrication, coolant, belts, filters, zincs, hoses, etc.) Don't forget the waterlift muffler. 6. Service each of the anti-siphon valves (exhaust, head, etc.). 7. Blow out the air vents/hoses for the fuel, water, and holding tanks. 8. Clean all in-line water filters. Replace any water hoses & fittings that show signs of mold growth. 9. Winterize all plumbing if storing until next season. 10. Clean the bilge area. Inspect keel bolts for corrosion. Clean the bilge pump intake line & filter-screening. Check the bilge pump float switch & wiring -- replace if necessary. 11. Check all the standing and running rigging for corrosion, wear, damage. 12. Ditto for stanchions and lifelines. 13. Test all running/steaming lights. BTW: When you launch again, have the prop shaft alignment checked *after* the standing rigging is adjusted & the boat has been taken out on a test-drive.
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