Enclosed, i hope is a picture of my stuffing box. As far as I can determine, 1/4" is the correct size for the packing (probably 6 mm, since my boat is metric based). I would greatly appreciate any hints as to the procedure to most easily replace the packing material. I plan to use the Goretex product. Thanks for the assistance. Steve
Other Kind of Stuffing Box, Maine Sail, J Cherubini, and others
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Enclosed, i hope is a picture of my stuffing box. As far as I can determine, 1/4" is the correct size for the packing (probably 6 mm, since my boat is metric based). I would greatly appreciate any hints as to the procedure to most easily replace the packing material. I plan to use the Goretex product. Thanks for the assistance. Steve
Great link Stu!
We've got the flax extractor here: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?fno=400&group=951&cat=2612 Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com
We've got the flax extractor here: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?fno=400&group=951&cat=2612 Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com
Great link Stu!
We've got the flax extractor here: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?fno=400&group=951&cat=2612 Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com
We've got the flax extractor here: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?fno=400&group=951&cat=2612 Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com
I am not Maine Sail or a rocket scientist
but your picture shows the shaft going into a fitting that has 2 threaded rods seemingly holding it in place. A photo taken from below of the front of this fitting would indicate if there are bolts which must apply the pressure on the fitting and flax which would be inside the fitting. If there are bolts on the forward face of it these would be the ones you use to tighten the pressure as the flax wears away. If you use the Gore GFO do not expect to have to tighten it much once it is initially installed and tweaked. The hose coming into (or is it out) of the lower section is either to allow water into what is the equivalent of the shaft log on a traditional stuffing box. Where does the other end of this hose go to? If it exits the hull above the water line then it is probably just a water pressure relief system so less pressure is applied to the packing gland. Water is the lubrication that this system (stuffing box/cutlass bearing) rely on hence never run the motor on the hard in anything but neutral. Do you have a picture of this stuffing box set up taken looking down the shaft? Interesting set up.
but your picture shows the shaft going into a fitting that has 2 threaded rods seemingly holding it in place. A photo taken from below of the front of this fitting would indicate if there are bolts which must apply the pressure on the fitting and flax which would be inside the fitting. If there are bolts on the forward face of it these would be the ones you use to tighten the pressure as the flax wears away. If you use the Gore GFO do not expect to have to tighten it much once it is initially installed and tweaked. The hose coming into (or is it out) of the lower section is either to allow water into what is the equivalent of the shaft log on a traditional stuffing box. Where does the other end of this hose go to? If it exits the hull above the water line then it is probably just a water pressure relief system so less pressure is applied to the packing gland. Water is the lubrication that this system (stuffing box/cutlass bearing) rely on hence never run the motor on the hard in anything but neutral. Do you have a picture of this stuffing box set up taken looking down the shaft? Interesting set up.
I am not Maine Sail or a rocket scientist
but your picture shows the shaft going into a fitting that has 2 threaded rods seemingly holding it in place. A photo taken from below of the front of this fitting would indicate if there are bolts which must apply the pressure on the fitting and flax which would be inside the fitting. If there are bolts on the forward face of it these would be the ones you use to tighten the pressure as the flax wears away. If you use the Gore GFO do not expect to have to tighten it much once it is initially installed and tweaked. The hose coming into (or is it out) of the lower section is either to allow water into what is the equivalent of the shaft log on a traditional stuffing box. Where does the other end of this hose go to? If it exits the hull above the water line then it is probably just a water pressure relief system so less pressure is applied to the packing gland. Water is the lubrication that this system (stuffing box/cutlass bearing) rely on hence never run the motor on the hard in anything but neutral. Do you have a picture of this stuffing box set up taken looking down the shaft? Interesting set up.
but your picture shows the shaft going into a fitting that has 2 threaded rods seemingly holding it in place. A photo taken from below of the front of this fitting would indicate if there are bolts which must apply the pressure on the fitting and flax which would be inside the fitting. If there are bolts on the forward face of it these would be the ones you use to tighten the pressure as the flax wears away. If you use the Gore GFO do not expect to have to tighten it much once it is initially installed and tweaked. The hose coming into (or is it out) of the lower section is either to allow water into what is the equivalent of the shaft log on a traditional stuffing box. Where does the other end of this hose go to? If it exits the hull above the water line then it is probably just a water pressure relief system so less pressure is applied to the packing gland. Water is the lubrication that this system (stuffing box/cutlass bearing) rely on hence never run the motor on the hard in anything but neutral. Do you have a picture of this stuffing box set up taken looking down the shaft? Interesting set up.
CalebD, stuffing box hose
The stuffing box is mounted directly and rigidly to the hull at the "bottom" of the photo. The other end of the shown 3/4 inch id hose is mounted to a sea cock below the water line and the hose brings lubricating water to the stuffing box. Steve
The stuffing box is mounted directly and rigidly to the hull at the "bottom" of the photo. The other end of the shown 3/4 inch id hose is mounted to a sea cock below the water line and the hose brings lubricating water to the stuffing box. Steve
CalebD, stuffing box hose
The stuffing box is mounted directly and rigidly to the hull at the "bottom" of the photo. The other end of the shown 3/4 inch id hose is mounted to a sea cock below the water line and the hose brings lubricating water to the stuffing box. Steve
The stuffing box is mounted directly and rigidly to the hull at the "bottom" of the photo. The other end of the shown 3/4 inch id hose is mounted to a sea cock below the water line and the hose brings lubricating water to the stuffing box. Steve
Stevep, this kind of makes sense
With the sea cock open on the other end of the hose you will be allowing more water to flow through and past the stuffing box and cutlass bearing (where shaft actually exits the boat) which will carry away more heat caused by friction of an over compressed tightening nut (nuts in your case). Raw water can then flow through your shaft log (behind the stuffing box on your setup) and cutlass bearing as you move through water and cool off any heat created by friction. You will want to do this on the hard for the first time after you get hauled out. It could be done pretty quickly if you are prepared to do it though. Once out of the water just back off the nuts that are holding the forward metal fitting in place and slide it up the shaft an inch or two (you don't have much room here) and try to dig out any remaining material (flax stuffing) that might be there and then cut the new pieces with matching ends at a 45* angle as Maine Sail's website indicates. Apply 2 or 3 rings of the new stuffing and try to work the fitting back to where you can apply the bolts and still keep the fitting at a 90* angle to the shaft. Then tighten and adjust for proper amount of drip with the engine in forward gear. Keep an eye on it and relax.
With the sea cock open on the other end of the hose you will be allowing more water to flow through and past the stuffing box and cutlass bearing (where shaft actually exits the boat) which will carry away more heat caused by friction of an over compressed tightening nut (nuts in your case). Raw water can then flow through your shaft log (behind the stuffing box on your setup) and cutlass bearing as you move through water and cool off any heat created by friction. You will want to do this on the hard for the first time after you get hauled out. It could be done pretty quickly if you are prepared to do it though. Once out of the water just back off the nuts that are holding the forward metal fitting in place and slide it up the shaft an inch or two (you don't have much room here) and try to dig out any remaining material (flax stuffing) that might be there and then cut the new pieces with matching ends at a 45* angle as Maine Sail's website indicates. Apply 2 or 3 rings of the new stuffing and try to work the fitting back to where you can apply the bolts and still keep the fitting at a 90* angle to the shaft. Then tighten and adjust for proper amount of drip with the engine in forward gear. Keep an eye on it and relax.
Stevep, this kind of makes sense
With the sea cock open on the other end of the hose you will be allowing more water to flow through and past the stuffing box and cutlass bearing (where shaft actually exits the boat) which will carry away more heat caused by friction of an over compressed tightening nut (nuts in your case). Raw water can then flow through your shaft log (behind the stuffing box on your setup) and cutlass bearing as you move through water and cool off any heat created by friction. You will want to do this on the hard for the first time after you get hauled out. It could be done pretty quickly if you are prepared to do it though. Once out of the water just back off the nuts that are holding the forward metal fitting in place and slide it up the shaft an inch or two (you don't have much room here) and try to dig out any remaining material (flax stuffing) that might be there and then cut the new pieces with matching ends at a 45* angle as Maine Sail's website indicates. Apply 2 or 3 rings of the new stuffing and try to work the fitting back to where you can apply the bolts and still keep the fitting at a 90* angle to the shaft. Then tighten and adjust for proper amount of drip with the engine in forward gear. Keep an eye on it and relax.
With the sea cock open on the other end of the hose you will be allowing more water to flow through and past the stuffing box and cutlass bearing (where shaft actually exits the boat) which will carry away more heat caused by friction of an over compressed tightening nut (nuts in your case). Raw water can then flow through your shaft log (behind the stuffing box on your setup) and cutlass bearing as you move through water and cool off any heat created by friction. You will want to do this on the hard for the first time after you get hauled out. It could be done pretty quickly if you are prepared to do it though. Once out of the water just back off the nuts that are holding the forward metal fitting in place and slide it up the shaft an inch or two (you don't have much room here) and try to dig out any remaining material (flax stuffing) that might be there and then cut the new pieces with matching ends at a 45* angle as Maine Sail's website indicates. Apply 2 or 3 rings of the new stuffing and try to work the fitting back to where you can apply the bolts and still keep the fitting at a 90* angle to the shaft. Then tighten and adjust for proper amount of drip with the engine in forward gear. Keep an eye on it and relax.
Sorry Steve
Sorry Steve I've been at meetings for the last couple of days. As for your stuffing box. 1) Clean that thing up as best you can! Wire brushes, Scotchbrite, Dremel & wire brush etc. etc.. 2) Clean that shaft but don't uses abrasives, in lengthwise motions, or your stuffing box will leak for a while until you "polish the scars out of the shaft" with the packing. Always clean the shaft in th same direction it spins. Kind of like "sand with the grain of the wood". What the heck is that "yellow caked on junk"? 3) That box should take at least three rings and the adjusting instructions are similar to the "nut type" box. 4) Confirm how many rings you pull out and replace with the same unless it was two and CAN fit three. 5) Make sure you have locking nuts for the compression device! It looks like a fairly straight forward water lubed "competition style" stuffing box and the basic concept is very similar to the directions on my site you've already read.. If you have any more specific questions fell free but the photos DO help a lot!!
Sorry Steve I've been at meetings for the last couple of days. As for your stuffing box. 1) Clean that thing up as best you can! Wire brushes, Scotchbrite, Dremel & wire brush etc. etc.. 2) Clean that shaft but don't uses abrasives, in lengthwise motions, or your stuffing box will leak for a while until you "polish the scars out of the shaft" with the packing. Always clean the shaft in th same direction it spins. Kind of like "sand with the grain of the wood". What the heck is that "yellow caked on junk"? 3) That box should take at least three rings and the adjusting instructions are similar to the "nut type" box. 4) Confirm how many rings you pull out and replace with the same unless it was two and CAN fit three. 5) Make sure you have locking nuts for the compression device! It looks like a fairly straight forward water lubed "competition style" stuffing box and the basic concept is very similar to the directions on my site you've already read.. If you have any more specific questions fell free but the photos DO help a lot!!
Sorry Steve
Sorry Steve I've been at meetings for the last couple of days. As for your stuffing box. 1) Clean that thing up as best you can! Wire brushes, Scotchbrite, Dremel & wire brush etc. etc.. 2) Clean that shaft but don't uses abrasives, in lengthwise motions, or your stuffing box will leak for a while until you "polish the scars out of the shaft" with the packing. Always clean the shaft in th same direction it spins. Kind of like "sand with the grain of the wood". What the heck is that "yellow caked on junk"? 3) That box should take at least three rings and the adjusting instructions are similar to the "nut type" box. 4) Confirm how many rings you pull out and replace with the same unless it was two and CAN fit three. 5) Make sure you have locking nuts for the compression device! It looks like a fairly straight forward water lubed "competition style" stuffing box and the basic concept is very similar to the directions on my site you've already read.. If you have any more specific questions fell free but the photos DO help a lot!!
Sorry Steve I've been at meetings for the last couple of days. As for your stuffing box. 1) Clean that thing up as best you can! Wire brushes, Scotchbrite, Dremel & wire brush etc. etc.. 2) Clean that shaft but don't uses abrasives, in lengthwise motions, or your stuffing box will leak for a while until you "polish the scars out of the shaft" with the packing. Always clean the shaft in th same direction it spins. Kind of like "sand with the grain of the wood". What the heck is that "yellow caked on junk"? 3) That box should take at least three rings and the adjusting instructions are similar to the "nut type" box. 4) Confirm how many rings you pull out and replace with the same unless it was two and CAN fit three. 5) Make sure you have locking nuts for the compression device! It looks like a fairly straight forward water lubed "competition style" stuffing box and the basic concept is very similar to the directions on my site you've already read.. If you have any more specific questions fell free but the photos DO help a lot!!
Thanks
CalebD and Maine sail -- thanks very much for the info and advice. I greatly appreciate your help. The yellow caked material may be from the residue of the PB Blaster I used to break free the cap from the stationary part. Steve
CalebD and Maine sail -- thanks very much for the info and advice. I greatly appreciate your help. The yellow caked material may be from the residue of the PB Blaster I used to break free the cap from the stationary part. Steve
Thanks
CalebD and Maine sail -- thanks very much for the info and advice. I greatly appreciate your help. The yellow caked material may be from the residue of the PB Blaster I used to break free the cap from the stationary part. Steve
CalebD and Maine sail -- thanks very much for the info and advice. I greatly appreciate your help. The yellow caked material may be from the residue of the PB Blaster I used to break free the cap from the stationary part. Steve
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