O'say 23-2 wirong question

Mar 5, 2014
45
Oday 23-2 Oriental
O'day 23-2 wiring question

The wiring on my boat (1983 model) is the usual mishmash of original factory plus whatever several previous owners added/subtracted. In a word, scary.

Some of the wires from the fuse panel to the base of the mast have started to disintegrate, and others are obviously not marine grade. The wires go from the panel aft into the port cockpit locker, then forward, emerging from behind the bulkhead by the portapotti. I can tell at least 2 were added later. I cannot tell where the are actually running other than it appears to be between the liner & the hull or deck.

So, do I just used the old wires to pull the new wires & hope for the best? If not, where/how do I run them? I will probably need to do the cabin lights too but that wiring is in better shape so it may wait until next winter.

Thanks!
 
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Ward H

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Nov 7, 2011
3,833
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
I'm in the middle of installing a new DC Panel and voltmeter. I found that on the 25 all wires were taped together and went up between the cabin liner and deck. The stern light wire appeared a few feet away in a cavity and I tried pulling on it. No go.
I'm thinking that the wiring harness was installed on top of the liner before the deck was lowered, trapping them in place.
Some made to the side, where there was space to run wires forward but I could not use any existing wire to pull through a new wire.
 
Mar 5, 2014
45
Oday 23-2 Oriental
There is a little movement in mine, and I can tell that at least 2 were later additions, but I fear you are correct. What are you going to do, run them inside the cabin?
 

Ward H

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Nov 7, 2011
3,833
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
There is a space between the liner and deck from the sides in for about 6' or so. There is a 1/2" gap between the liner and side walls. I am tucking the cables up into that space. Forward of the head the forward bow lighting cable runs in that gap. The problem is unless I want to run it out into the open behind the galley area to get to the DC panel, I have to run it all the way back under the combing to the stern, down into the lazerret and back to the bulkhead wall where the DC Panel. It makes a longer run but the wires are completely hidden.
My alternate idea was to run the cables under the cabin sole to get forward to the bow but my first choice is in that gap.
 
Oct 10, 2009
1,100
Catalina 27 3657 Lake Monroe
It's pretty difficult to do anything with the original wiring, in my experience. And I wouldn't trust any PO wiring that I couldn't inspect end to end. I've seen many creative ways to run wire inside so that's an option and I'd be surprised if you could get a wire from the side of the boat to the mast step between the ceiling and deck. Also, on my 23, the area along the edges of the cabin ceiling seems to offer a place to run wires from stem to stern, but I've never stuck a fish tape in there to explore the possibility.
 
Nov 5, 2010
99
Oday 23 Stonington, CT
My 1978 23-2 has the wiring all running from panel (and negative to battery) along the port side on top of the flange of the cabin liner under the rail. When I cut access to repair the lifeline stanchion bases I left it open, also cut another opening just aft of bulkhead. I peeled the foam vinyl liner off to access the flange, and instead of re-gluing I screwed strips of thin ply up which are removable for quick access to wiring. You can see this at Golden Road photos.
 
Nov 5, 2010
99
Oday 23 Stonington, CT
Let me add that once you've peeled the liner off you can reach your fingers up and pull wires down if needed, although its easier if you have some access cut-outs.
 
Mar 5, 2014
45
Oday 23-2 Oriental
Thanks. Is that standard home-improvement store luan plywood? Your boat looks really good.
 
Sep 30, 2009
139
81 O'Day 23-2.......... Kiwi Magic Oakville, Ontario, Canada
I tucked my wiring up under the head liner, as Ward said, it works very well.
Also I covered the gap with the excess slats from my 2" wide white plastic blinds (in the house), I cut them into about 8" long pieces. I stuck them on with a piece of hook and loop tape about an inch long on each end. Worked great.
There was enough FG room for strip led lighting to go full length both sides of the boat.

Hope this helps your idea's.

 
Nov 5, 2010
99
Oday 23 Stonington, CT
Thanks. Is that standard home-improvement store luan plywood? Your boat looks really good.
Yes. Don't worry about non-marine. Its not going to get wet, and if it does de-lam its totally easy to replace. I didn't fuss too much on it, nobody notices it really. I used nylon bolts and tapped threads into the flange. The nylon is good cause they stick up and prevent wires from sliding around, yet won't chafe the insulation.