Still refitting my "new" 94 30T..need to install a Garhauer organizer on the port side. Besides the apparant daunting task of removing the cover to get at the mounting pad, the next challenge is the thru bolting, since there is no factory installed access in the liner underneath....please feed me any and all experiences in this regard....I am not looking forward to making holes in a perfectly good liner, but I am sure it has been done somewhere out there....
- Status
Screws, not bolts?
Because the loads are lateral I think that you can use screws. The only one on my H37C was for the mainsheet and was very heavily loaded. It had four two inch screws into the plywood coring. In 20+ years it never loosened. I would improve on this by drilling 3/4" holes and glassing in 3/4" hardwood dowels. Then screw into the dowels. It is the way I have done my handrails. Only my cabin top winches and cleats are through bolted. If I ever install the clutches that I have owned for four years I will through bolt those also.
Because the loads are lateral I think that you can use screws. The only one on my H37C was for the mainsheet and was very heavily loaded. It had four two inch screws into the plywood coring. In 20+ years it never loosened. I would improve on this by drilling 3/4" holes and glassing in 3/4" hardwood dowels. Then screw into the dowels. It is the way I have done my handrails. Only my cabin top winches and cleats are through bolted. If I ever install the clutches that I have owned for four years I will through bolt those also.
Don't Drill all the Thru the Liner
It is very easy if you have the time. Submitted by Mike Jaeger on 04/28/2005 at 05:53PM regarding Hunter 30_88-94 This was from an old post to dale back on 4-8-05 You can go to the Forums Archives and enter Deck Organizer and several others will come up on the H30T ED, You have to take the deck orginizer off. Be sure to have some silicone silant on hand to reinstal it. We installed a spinnaker halyard, Outhaul Halyard and two turning blocks at the mast base. Then a three pulley deck orginizer and a SpinLock two line clutch on the deck. Just like the starbord side. You need a drill and taps to do the install. Be carefull when you drill only through the top deck. Use lots of sealant. We ran the outhall to the main through the second block. You can get the turning blocks for the mast base at Rig-Rite. See the link below. I don't have any close up pic's, but I can take some for you if needed. Good Luck. There is a very thin Aluminum plate under the raised area you need to drill. Make sure you have two people to help remover the deck cover, it is heavy.
It is very easy if you have the time. Submitted by Mike Jaeger on 04/28/2005 at 05:53PM regarding Hunter 30_88-94 This was from an old post to dale back on 4-8-05 You can go to the Forums Archives and enter Deck Organizer and several others will come up on the H30T ED, You have to take the deck orginizer off. Be sure to have some silicone silant on hand to reinstal it. We installed a spinnaker halyard, Outhaul Halyard and two turning blocks at the mast base. Then a three pulley deck orginizer and a SpinLock two line clutch on the deck. Just like the starbord side. You need a drill and taps to do the install. Be carefull when you drill only through the top deck. Use lots of sealant. We ran the outhall to the main through the second block. You can get the turning blocks for the mast base at Rig-Rite. See the link below. I don't have any close up pic's, but I can take some for you if needed. Good Luck. There is a very thin Aluminum plate under the raised area you need to drill. Make sure you have two people to help remover the deck cover, it is heavy.
Have done it
Did this modification to the same boat (1990 H30G)two years ago. It was an easy job. I didn't have any problems removing the spray hood by myself. Drill and tap on the port side exactly as the starboard side is installed. Drill slowly until you get throught the aluminim plate. Seal the holes with 3M 4200, I think I used some on the organizer too. I got my turning fittings for the mast base from RigRite as mentioned above. Once you get handy with a drill and tap set, you won't use "wood" type screws in fiberglass anymore. Sealed machine screws in a tapped hole hold much better, and will never crack around the edges. While I was at it, I moved the traveler cam cleats, mainsheet cleat, outhaul, vang, and topping lift all to the aft edge of the coach roof. Makes for MUCH easier sail trimming, especially from the helm.
Did this modification to the same boat (1990 H30G)two years ago. It was an easy job. I didn't have any problems removing the spray hood by myself. Drill and tap on the port side exactly as the starboard side is installed. Drill slowly until you get throught the aluminim plate. Seal the holes with 3M 4200, I think I used some on the organizer too. I got my turning fittings for the mast base from RigRite as mentioned above. Once you get handy with a drill and tap set, you won't use "wood" type screws in fiberglass anymore. Sealed machine screws in a tapped hole hold much better, and will never crack around the edges. While I was at it, I moved the traveler cam cleats, mainsheet cleat, outhaul, vang, and topping lift all to the aft edge of the coach roof. Makes for MUCH easier sail trimming, especially from the helm.
Obvious comment
I plan on adding port triple rope clutch also. I'm glad to hear that it is straight forward. One obvious caution: Place the rope clutch so it lines up to feed into the winch on the correct side. On a typical port side of the companionway layout, the clutch would line up to feed the rope to the inboard side of the winch. PAC
I plan on adding port triple rope clutch also. I'm glad to hear that it is straight forward. One obvious caution: Place the rope clutch so it lines up to feed into the winch on the correct side. On a typical port side of the companionway layout, the clutch would line up to feed the rope to the inboard side of the winch. PAC
- Status