Hi folks, am getting ready to clean up the boat, (Oday 22). In looking at orbital polishers I see that most say the RPM is 12,000. One said it is adjustible from 7,000 to 12,000. A cheap one was 3,000. Any advice here? I don't mind spending a little more...I just want something that will work for me. I also have some Maguires Boat cleaner and Wax. Any comments on it? As I recall it has a mild compouding action and mostly wax.. I hand cleaned part of the bow and it looked real good.
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I have had great success with....
the $50 5" handheld orbital sanders available at Home Depot or Lowes....you can use whatever grit suits you. Your boat is such a size that won't intimidate that small sander.....I use my sander on my 37' and it works great. Good luck...
the $50 5" handheld orbital sanders available at Home Depot or Lowes....you can use whatever grit suits you. Your boat is such a size that won't intimidate that small sander.....I use my sander on my 37' and it works great. Good luck...
Makita
Read this thread: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=60&sku=2006080193411.10&id=389314&ptl=Essential%20Tips%20For%20A%20Great%20Buff%20/%20Wax&id=389314 and this one: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=61&sku=2006207105717.67&id=413049&ptl=#2006213172516.96 both from Acoustic Too bad the pictures aren't in there, his boat was beautiful & shiny. (wait, some pictures are there if you click on them, but I thought there were more, maybe pictures of which pads he used?) After reading that, I bought a Makita 9227 (about $200) and used the 3M stuff, then Collinite on a chalky 1979 O'Day 28. I couldn't be happier, although I wish I had that advice before I wasted my time with (and broke) a couple of the cheaper car polishers. The specs on the Makita say 0-3,000 RPM, although I used between the 900 & 1500 settings. Kevin
Read this thread: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=60&sku=2006080193411.10&id=389314&ptl=Essential%20Tips%20For%20A%20Great%20Buff%20/%20Wax&id=389314 and this one: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=61&sku=2006207105717.67&id=413049&ptl=#2006213172516.96 both from Acoustic Too bad the pictures aren't in there, his boat was beautiful & shiny. (wait, some pictures are there if you click on them, but I thought there were more, maybe pictures of which pads he used?) After reading that, I bought a Makita 9227 (about $200) and used the 3M stuff, then Collinite on a chalky 1979 O'Day 28. I couldn't be happier, although I wish I had that advice before I wasted my time with (and broke) a couple of the cheaper car polishers. The specs on the Makita say 0-3,000 RPM, although I used between the 900 & 1500 settings. Kevin
Buy good quality tools
This past summer, I sanded the hull of a Hunter 30. I started with a Milwaukee hand held random orbital sander. It worked well until I caught the edge of the sanding pad on the prop strut, and snapped off the rubber sanding pad. Before repairing it, I bought a 2 amp Dewalt quarter sheet non-orbital sander. I liked working with it better. I can make it go in orbits. When I got frustrated with how slowly the job was going, I switched to a Milwaukee 7 inch heavy duty, variable speed polisher. It was much quicker, and much more tiring to use, especially when held overhead. The problem with the professional polisher is that it is very easy to leave swirls or gouges. It takes practice. I used 120 and 150 grit paper on the bottom. On the topsides, I used progressively finer grits. When sanding old bottom paint, be sure to wear a dual resperator, wear full body covering, head and neck covering, and goggles. The paint dust is toxic. That, of course is why it keeps marinr growth at bay. (No pun intended.) My philosophy with tools is to buy the best that I afford. They last longer, feel better in the hand, and make the job go better. Whatever you buy, try to imagine holding it in your hands for several hours at a time.
This past summer, I sanded the hull of a Hunter 30. I started with a Milwaukee hand held random orbital sander. It worked well until I caught the edge of the sanding pad on the prop strut, and snapped off the rubber sanding pad. Before repairing it, I bought a 2 amp Dewalt quarter sheet non-orbital sander. I liked working with it better. I can make it go in orbits. When I got frustrated with how slowly the job was going, I switched to a Milwaukee 7 inch heavy duty, variable speed polisher. It was much quicker, and much more tiring to use, especially when held overhead. The problem with the professional polisher is that it is very easy to leave swirls or gouges. It takes practice. I used 120 and 150 grit paper on the bottom. On the topsides, I used progressively finer grits. When sanding old bottom paint, be sure to wear a dual resperator, wear full body covering, head and neck covering, and goggles. The paint dust is toxic. That, of course is why it keeps marinr growth at bay. (No pun intended.) My philosophy with tools is to buy the best that I afford. They last longer, feel better in the hand, and make the job go better. Whatever you buy, try to imagine holding it in your hands for several hours at a time.
To the folks "sanding" their topsides
Sanding your topsides with a random orbit sander is the death of your gelcoat. Wet sanding gel coat, by hand, starts at 600 grit minimum and works up to 1600 and this is a WET sand not a DRY sand. 600 should only be used if the surface is so chalky you "load" a finer grit paper after only one or two strokes. If you guys are truly doing as you say, 120 to 150 grit, your gel coat is now less than paper thin and this is most likely the final polishing of your hull. Never and I repeat NEVER use a "dry" machine sander on your topsides even if you can find a 600, 800, 1000 or 1600 grit stick on paper. Heavier grits are fine on the bottom paint but NOT the topside gelcoat. Boats have curves to the hull shape and high spot defects from molds or bulkeaheads that 90% of novices will never see. A 4 or 5 inch flat surface from a RO sander is a FLAT surface that will sand any high spot paper thin within seconds. Even with wet sanding you should use great caution and most amatures would be better served with a proper wool pad and a rubbing compound. Please, please please, at least for a potential future owner of your boat, DON'T use a RO sander to attemt to polish your hull!!!
Sanding your topsides with a random orbit sander is the death of your gelcoat. Wet sanding gel coat, by hand, starts at 600 grit minimum and works up to 1600 and this is a WET sand not a DRY sand. 600 should only be used if the surface is so chalky you "load" a finer grit paper after only one or two strokes. If you guys are truly doing as you say, 120 to 150 grit, your gel coat is now less than paper thin and this is most likely the final polishing of your hull. Never and I repeat NEVER use a "dry" machine sander on your topsides even if you can find a 600, 800, 1000 or 1600 grit stick on paper. Heavier grits are fine on the bottom paint but NOT the topside gelcoat. Boats have curves to the hull shape and high spot defects from molds or bulkeaheads that 90% of novices will never see. A 4 or 5 inch flat surface from a RO sander is a FLAT surface that will sand any high spot paper thin within seconds. Even with wet sanding you should use great caution and most amatures would be better served with a proper wool pad and a rubbing compound. Please, please please, at least for a potential future owner of your boat, DON'T use a RO sander to attemt to polish your hull!!!
A word from a lazy guy
A lot of people like to do things "right" and get their boats looking really sharp; I too, wish I had the time, money and talent to do so. I do not. I bought a second hand random orbital polisher/buffer for $10 (I later saw the same model at Walmart new for $25), purchased some one-step compound/wax from West Marine (highly rated by Practical Sailor!), and was able to completely wash, compound and wax my Oday 23 in less than five hours total. She looked really shiny when I was done, and the look lasted for a good two months until there was a noticeable deterioration. Water no longer beaded up on the waterline and underneath the toe rail cutouts by then, and the finish looked somewhat duller all over by the end of the summer, but water still beaded up everywhere else even at the end of the season. All in all, I would say the effort and the results were very satisfactory. I have many other shoreside obligations that prevent me from spending lots of time and money on my boat; I do what I can to keep the boat in good repair and looking good, but, hey, its more important to me to get the boat in the water than to try and be the best looking boat out there.
A lot of people like to do things "right" and get their boats looking really sharp; I too, wish I had the time, money and talent to do so. I do not. I bought a second hand random orbital polisher/buffer for $10 (I later saw the same model at Walmart new for $25), purchased some one-step compound/wax from West Marine (highly rated by Practical Sailor!), and was able to completely wash, compound and wax my Oday 23 in less than five hours total. She looked really shiny when I was done, and the look lasted for a good two months until there was a noticeable deterioration. Water no longer beaded up on the waterline and underneath the toe rail cutouts by then, and the finish looked somewhat duller all over by the end of the summer, but water still beaded up everywhere else even at the end of the season. All in all, I would say the effort and the results were very satisfactory. I have many other shoreside obligations that prevent me from spending lots of time and money on my boat; I do what I can to keep the boat in good repair and looking good, but, hey, its more important to me to get the boat in the water than to try and be the best looking boat out there.
Maguires Boat cleaner and Wax
IS A REALLY GOOD PRODUCT AND MY PREFERENCE. IT STANDS UP TO THE SUN WELL AND IS PRETTY MUCH A ONE STEP PROCESS. AS THE LAST 2 POSTS SUGGEST, PLEASE DON'T SAND THE TOP SIDES. I RECOMEND A CHEAP ELECTRIC ORBITAL POLISHER AVAILABLE AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE, WALLMART, SEARS, ETC. IT WORKS ON LOW RPM'S AND WON'T BURN THE GELCOAT. IF YOU TAKE MY ADVICE, BUY PLENTY OF EXTRA TERRY CLOTH COVERS FOR IT. ONE WILL BE ENOUGH TO APPLY THE WAX TO ONE SIDE OF THE HULL. IT WILL TAKE SEVERAL TO BUFF IT OFF. YOU NEED TO TAKE THE WAX OFF WITH CLEAN ONES. DON'T WORK IN ONE SMALL PLACE TOO LONG. YOU DON'T WANT TO BURN THE WAX AND GELCOAT. IF SKUM AND AXIDATION ARE TOO MUCH FOR THE CLEANER AND WAX, RUBBING COMPOUND MAY BE REQUIRED. THERE ARE ALSO PLENTY OF GOOD DECK CLEANERS (I WOULDN'T USE WAX) THIS IS WHAT I DID LAST SUNDAY TO A 26' 1981 SAILBOAT. IT WAS LAST POLISHED 3 YEARS AGO AND HAS BEEN IN THE WATER THE WHOLE TIME. IT TOOK ME ABOUT 4 HOURS AND LOOKS GREAT. I WILL DO THE SAME WITH A CATALINA 30 THIS COMING WEEKEND. I WOULD BE AFRAID THAT SANDING IT WOULD TAKE MUCH LONGER AND POTENTIALLY CAUSE MORE PROBLEMS THAN IT SOLVES. GOOD LUCK
IS A REALLY GOOD PRODUCT AND MY PREFERENCE. IT STANDS UP TO THE SUN WELL AND IS PRETTY MUCH A ONE STEP PROCESS. AS THE LAST 2 POSTS SUGGEST, PLEASE DON'T SAND THE TOP SIDES. I RECOMEND A CHEAP ELECTRIC ORBITAL POLISHER AVAILABLE AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE, WALLMART, SEARS, ETC. IT WORKS ON LOW RPM'S AND WON'T BURN THE GELCOAT. IF YOU TAKE MY ADVICE, BUY PLENTY OF EXTRA TERRY CLOTH COVERS FOR IT. ONE WILL BE ENOUGH TO APPLY THE WAX TO ONE SIDE OF THE HULL. IT WILL TAKE SEVERAL TO BUFF IT OFF. YOU NEED TO TAKE THE WAX OFF WITH CLEAN ONES. DON'T WORK IN ONE SMALL PLACE TOO LONG. YOU DON'T WANT TO BURN THE WAX AND GELCOAT. IF SKUM AND AXIDATION ARE TOO MUCH FOR THE CLEANER AND WAX, RUBBING COMPOUND MAY BE REQUIRED. THERE ARE ALSO PLENTY OF GOOD DECK CLEANERS (I WOULDN'T USE WAX) THIS IS WHAT I DID LAST SUNDAY TO A 26' 1981 SAILBOAT. IT WAS LAST POLISHED 3 YEARS AGO AND HAS BEEN IN THE WATER THE WHOLE TIME. IT TOOK ME ABOUT 4 HOURS AND LOOKS GREAT. I WILL DO THE SAME WITH A CATALINA 30 THIS COMING WEEKEND. I WOULD BE AFRAID THAT SANDING IT WOULD TAKE MUCH LONGER AND POTENTIALLY CAUSE MORE PROBLEMS THAN IT SOLVES. GOOD LUCK
My topsides were previously painted
I agree, do not sand gelcoat topsides. In my post, below, I said that I sanded the topsides. I should have clarified that they had previously been painted.
I agree, do not sand gelcoat topsides. In my post, below, I said that I sanded the topsides. I should have clarified that they had previously been painted.
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