I need to replace the sender on my water tank. Near as I can tell, I need to remove all of the planking in the V Berth to get to the gauge hole. Can this be correct? Or am I missing something simple. Help. Thanks
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Been There, Done That!!!
Yes Mark, that is exactly what you have to do. I have done it three times now. The little foam float on the sender contains a magnet and this goes rusty. This rust, in turn, reduces the diameter of the hole in the float and it binds on the stem on which it slides. Repaired this twice. Last time I was punching into a head sea all day with a half empty tank and the free surface effect of the water broke the stem of the sender clean off. I have been given cause to wonder why Hunters needed 56 screws (if I remember right) to gain access to the sender. Get an electric screwdriver and REMEMBER where the different lengths of screws all came from! The woodwork under the bunk is filleted down with silicone adhesive and this makes it difficult to know if some screws are still to be found. Also I think I chiselled away various bits of wood to make it easier next time.
Yes Mark, that is exactly what you have to do. I have done it three times now. The little foam float on the sender contains a magnet and this goes rusty. This rust, in turn, reduces the diameter of the hole in the float and it binds on the stem on which it slides. Repaired this twice. Last time I was punching into a head sea all day with a half empty tank and the free surface effect of the water broke the stem of the sender clean off. I have been given cause to wonder why Hunters needed 56 screws (if I remember right) to gain access to the sender. Get an electric screwdriver and REMEMBER where the different lengths of screws all came from! The woodwork under the bunk is filleted down with silicone adhesive and this makes it difficult to know if some screws are still to be found. Also I think I chiselled away various bits of wood to make it easier next time.
Tank Gauge Access
I have the same problem. Is it possible to just cut an access hole in the lower piece of wood under the v-berth. I assume the gauge is at the rear of the tank and on the centerline. Seems like this might be easier than taking all the woodwork apart?
I have the same problem. Is it possible to just cut an access hole in the lower piece of wood under the v-berth. I assume the gauge is at the rear of the tank and on the centerline. Seems like this might be easier than taking all the woodwork apart?
How Long
Donalex, Thanks for the response. I'd like to have the sender in hand before opening the decking. Can you tell me what length the sender needs to be. Mark.
Donalex, Thanks for the response. I'd like to have the sender in hand before opening the decking. Can you tell me what length the sender needs to be. Mark.
Mark - Length
Mark, Sorry 'bout the delay. My sender is a WEMA and is 450mm (17.7") long. At least it was before it broke! It contained 8 latching reed relays wired in series, each bridged by a 22 ohm resistor. Never seen this type of switch before - very clever. When the float was down the total resistance in series with the meter was 176 ohms and at the top nil ohms.
Mark, Sorry 'bout the delay. My sender is a WEMA and is 450mm (17.7") long. At least it was before it broke! It contained 8 latching reed relays wired in series, each bridged by a 22 ohm resistor. Never seen this type of switch before - very clever. When the float was down the total resistance in series with the meter was 176 ohms and at the top nil ohms.
Thanks
Thanks to Alan and Donalex for the information and the clever ideas. I'll be diving right in when my new WEMA gauge arrives. As for Bob Talley - I've been thinking the same thing, but (1) Where exactly to cut and (2) how to support the removed piece once the repair is made? Let me know if you figure it out. Thanks to all - Mark
Thanks to Alan and Donalex for the information and the clever ideas. I'll be diving right in when my new WEMA gauge arrives. As for Bob Talley - I've been thinking the same thing, but (1) Where exactly to cut and (2) how to support the removed piece once the repair is made? Let me know if you figure it out. Thanks to all - Mark
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